Robert Yates

Very nice fit and finish, good contour lines that flow throught the knife and a nice light hamon line on the blade True quality . thank you for showing .

Sam

:P got served that once in Japan man was it bad .

Looking at that model it may pose an issue getting a bulb in there if you have it mobil as it would breake the bulb from vibration if it is a shop thing you might mod the case and it will work.

another thing to use is a water heater thermostat 110 size / a sm one they will turn up to 200*+ place it against the metal side and screw it to it conect the wires and your good to go .

in the field most inspectors care more about the quality of a weld and its integrity than how the rod were dried ! I have welded and Certed in many states from the 4 points of the US as well in the Middle of the ocean and they tested the weld not my rods . but like you nothing beats a good dry rod for welding .

I have an old fridge with 2 X 100 watt bulbs in it 1 at the top 1 at the bottom and full of all types of rods .

Sam

First of all: No Chain Sawing. At least until you understand the what is going on and make some repairs. Even with all of the pictures it is hard to understand exactly what is going on there. So here are a couple of questions that you need to consider:

1. It looks like one of the beams ends at mid span and is supported by a post. Is that the case. If so that post has to stay until other means of supporting the span are provided.

2. It looks like the bottom of one of the beams, which as been re-supported, has a deep notch in the bottom. This beam will, most likely, need to be reinforced with additional members before removing the supporting post.

3. What are the spans of the damaged floor framing members? You will need to refer to framing span tables to determine the size of additional members needed.

4. How much imposed total load is being supported by the damaged members ? Total load is live load ( contents of the space above, or as required by code in pounds per square foot over the entire floor area above which is supported by the member), plus dead load ( weight of the existing structure).

In general it appears that the floor was framed using timbers salvaged from an older structure. The notches have weakened the member. They would have been seats for secondary framing members called purlins. The beam, in it's original installation , would have been installed with the notches up.

The bottom line is that the floor can probably be reinforced and the posts removed. However additional framing will need to be installed before the supports are removed. There is not much more that we can offer here except to say that the exact nature and scope of the repair needs to be determined by a qualified craftsman/engineer on site.

this is where I get All Mine SAM

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Welcome From Tennessee

I so need to build some vent covers the kids have destroyed the cheap ones ya get at the store .

roung here the local Deer processer will give hides to anyone that ask for them in bulk so i can get 15 to 30 at a time . way cool

I'll have to say I hate tofu but find thid stuff good as gold for my mig just got it just the other day very cool stuff .

sam

I use a laser type

this one shows a good cutting set up http://video.search.yahoo.com/search/video?p=acetylene+cutting

I see what you mean. I suppose that welding on a convex (2" ball) surface only complicates matters.

I just reported it as a fraud /fake .

I picked up a 300 gallon propane tank for the cost of hauling it away - and it's about half full of fuel. New home owners down the road are using electricity and didn't want it around anymore. I already had the local propane supplier come out to recertify so no problems with refills. That being said, I am planning to pipe into the shop and have multiple drops along one wall to run forges and/or torches. I'm considering copper from the tank into the shop then switching to black iron pipe with fuel-safe pipe seal compound at all the joints. In addition, I was given a Victor ST-900C some years ago, which is a dedicated cutting torch. It came with an oxy-propane tip installed but I never used the torch and stored it. I am now thinking about getting one of the big 250 cuft. O2 tanks from the local welding shop and putting it on a single tank cart. I could then plug in the torch wherever convenient with fuel from the wall and O2 from the mobile cylinder.

My question is - how many of you use propane in a torch setup and do you like it? I've had a Victor rig on oxy-acetylene for over 30 years and am keeping it as secondary heat - but propane is cheaper and easier to get than acetylene, especially when the dealers suddenly declare force majeure because of a shortage in some other part of the country. I don't torch weld anymore so the oxy-propane will only be used for heating and cutting.

started on the farm , then High School , then to the military , by the time I was done I acheived 44B50 teaching /tech level . now certed in 10 ststes and unlimited plate ,strucial, and pipe . in various types of welding .

Sam

Undercut is caused by pulling the electrode out of the puddel to soon ! let the rod sit a bit longer and if you are still getting it more pratice . sho some photos of your weld .

Sam

the only thing not mentioned is setting the gap between the steal with the size rod you are useing ...IE - rod size 3/32 gap 3/32 tack it and weld it . every one else has covered the other info .

http://www.forgemonkeys.com/

Come to think of it, I just realized we're talking about two separate things. You're talking about a design patent, Thomas. Yes, those are easy to get around -- so easy that they're hardly worth bothering with. Utility patents are a different story, and much more worthwhile. I assumed that's what he's going for. But maybe not.

However !, if there's some claim that a unique, non-obvious combination of steels in a particular pattern produces unusual and useful material properties, that certainly could be patentable.

Thus the Blend of steel and process there of to make said steel is Patenable !

Yes Rich I can and that is what is in Question the very thing you want to do the patten of a blend of steel that i am working on . PM me for a phone No # and i'll let you know what I am doing .

Sam

The Best belt grinder you can afford. would be best

Well I will tell you this the edit of post were disabled and i was chatting with a few folks at the time of my answer of Yes ! it is my steel and made by Lacy Smith. My Knives are NOT Kit knives Nor of Jants Knife Co. as for Forging Blades I did ,Have , and do lower level folds , However, NOT folds of the 400 + range .

As with any Steel Blend If a knife maker wishes to Patten their Blend it can NOT be Public Information before the patten process is compleated . So NO I can NOT share the composition of it Just yet .
If you have any Questions By all means feel free to chat with me

Sam

I will as it is a massive project we hope to be finished in time for the show .

I guess my biggest gift is from the Good Lord above , I new lease on life as i have just Beat lung Cancer after 18 months . I lost the left lower lobe of my lung However I am alive and cancer free . for that I am very thankful to the good Lord above

Sam