ede

Yes it is monolithic steel and does not have a separate steel plate for the face.

 

However they do not harden the entire anvil to the same hardness of the face and so you may have gone through the hardest bit.

You have decreased the use life by a large margin.

 

Do the ball bearing bounce test and if it comes out to a reasonable amount then breathe a sigh of relief as smaller anvils tend to harden deeper.  It may be more prone to future face damage so be careful with larger hammers and hammer control. If you have gone into a softer zone it's still usable it will just look worse than it starter a lot earlier.  I hope you did not have to pay someone to do this to your anvil.  (Machinists and Weldors do the most damage to anvils as they tend to not understand how they are constructed and used)

 

I didn't pay him, it was a trade. 

 

And a final plaintive "Why?"  I didn't see anything on the original picture that needed milling.

 

I mostly wanted him to make the square hardy, that was my intention when going there.  When he put it on the surface platen and mic'd it, he said it wouldn't take much (.030) to true the face.  I hadn't thought about the differential heat treatment for the face at that time.  I'll know more once I do the ball bearing test. 

 

 

Forgot to add that EDM can change that round to a sq without messing up the temper; but may cost a bit.

 

I called a local EDM place and they quoted about $600 without seeing it.  It was important, but not $600 important!  Perhaps I will do what DSW suggested and just make tooling with an indexing tab or make a separate hardy block. 

What is the ID of the hole ?

If I were to do it myself and use hand tools the first tool I would pick would be a course Triangular File.
The whole doesn't have to be perfect, just close to the size and shape.
If there is a tool steel plate, 1" thick, that will be the biggest battle for the file.

First determine the ID, then the closest standard Hardy Tool Shaft Size or what you have available for tools, then start filing.

 

The round hole is 7/8" or 22.2 mm, I was planning on making it 1" square. 

It appears as though it is square from afar, but it is indeed round.   I measured the heel of the anvil and it is over 1 inch so it still has some mass.  It's my understanding that this anvil is forged and therefore doesn't have a separate steel plate that is welded to the body. Maybe someone else could clarify this. 

And yes, the propane tank besided the anvil has been moved. 

Here is a picture pre-machining and also one that shows the round (drifting?) hole.

Does anyone know an inexpensive non-destructive way to make a square hole for my anvil?

So I got took my little 20 kilo (about 44#)  Peddinghaus anvil to a cnc machine shop hoping they could mill a square hole so I can make some bottom tooling for it.  In the process I had him re-surface the top. 

So when I went to pick up the anvil last night, he told me he was unable to machine the square hole because this metal was tough stuff, in fact he has broken some carbide bits while re-surfacing it.  I wish I had told him that the edge of the anvil was supposed to have a tapered radius because he ended up taking off a little more than I had expected (about a 1/4'').   Lesson learned!

The forge is made out of 1/16" plate, and we plan on lining it with two layers of kaowool or superwool, castable refractory, the itc 100, and perhaps the greenpack 85.  The burner design is from Porter's book, except we are using 1'' instead of 3/4'' for the nipple.

Thanks guys, I will contact Wayne. 

Hi Thomas,

Thanks for reminding me to update my location.  I am in Austin, Texas. 

Hello,

Long time lurker here at iforgeiron and finally posting.  I'm looking for recommendations for sources fairly priced Superwool, ITC 100 and Castable Refractory. 

Thanks,

Ede