Mike BR

Yep, 12kw.  But CCA is cold cranking amps, so seconds (or tens of seconds?) rather than hours.  Still a lot longer than my life expectancy would be with 1000 amps running through me . . .

It’s ultimately current that kills, but voltage is what determines how much will flow through your body.  Ever touch the terminals on a 1000 CCA car battery?

Also, the HF itself will tend to protect you, through the skin effect.  The start circuit on a TIG has a much higher voltage, but the HF keeps it from being dangerous. 

If my math’s right, 18 degrees would mean it would take a sideways pressure of about 30% of the anvil’s weight to tip it. Depending on what you plan to bend in the hardy hole, of course. . . .

Yes -- that's what I was thinking.  I've done similar things with small hand wheels, and a bronze gear for a Champion blower (that had a solid hub with a web from light plate, then a steel ring on the perimeter with a bronze "tire" silver soldered to that).

They make fluxes for joining aluminum.  Might be worth looking into those. 

For welding, I ordered the cheapest glasses I could find in my reading prescription.  (I guess strictly speaking, I should have bought prescription safeties, but figures I'd live dangerously behind the helmet.)   

I think some of the online stores have specific options for reading glasses, but I just (mathematically) added the distance numbers from my bifocal prescription to the reading adjustment it showed.  I've also plussed up the numbers a little further for close (non-hazardous) work; you could probably back off some for medium distance welding if you wanted.

You could probably forge and fabricate a steel blank, if the machinist’s up with turning that. 

I’d check what Frosty said, too. If blade isn’t set up right, it will wander no matter how well you mount the saw 

Work hardened mild steel springs can work well.  I've only made much smaller springs that way myself, but have had good luck with those.

Another submarine power solution is stirling engines (which NATO now has). 

It seems like running the armature of a universal motor below rated voltage should have the same effect as running a permanent magnet motor at reduced voltage—the motor happily runs at reduced speed. But even if I’m right, that’s probably not what you want. 

I think the last one I took apart had crimped connections between wires. Those are worth checking as well. 

You can see it about 3/4 of the way down here:https://www.dr.dk/nyheder/webfeature/brand-i-borsen-fra-alarm-til-sidste-gloeder

I enjoyed the Hagley (especially the old powder mill) when I was up that way years ago.

Wheels first doesn't seem that unusual.  Just don't put it before the horse.

It's a lot cheaper to replace one layer than two when the inside wears.

Last week, I was watching one of those makeover shows, and the homeowner had mounted a TV on the end of the stub wall that separated their living room and dining room, so you could swivel it either way.  The host was making fun of it, because whichever way you turned it, it stuck out pretty far into the passage between the rooms.

I kept thinking:  If one had a couple of short lengths of heavy roller chain. . . 

I had a friend who made mild steel hammers for driving punches and chisels. Kept the struck tools from mushrooming, though the hammer became a consumable. 

Wrapping bare copper wire around a steel stack sounds like a big short circuit. But maybe the dissimilar metals and the temperature difference between the stack and the battery would set up some form of thermocouple?

I think I’d hold out for a motor sickle. 

What is the world coming to? I go 56 years blissfully ignorant about any drunken herbivores.  Then yesterday I watch something about Tycho Brahe's moose, and today I learn about Tusko

I probably shouldn't jump into this, but hardware store "boiled" linseed oil contains driers -- metal salts that catalyze polymerization.  These remain toxic even after the product has hardened.  You can get true boiled linseed oil, without the driers, as a specialty product. 

Looking at the bright side, if it did have LH threads, there's a good chance it will be for sale again soon. 

The magnetic field from the welding current could possibly damage (demagnetize) the chuck. I’d avoid grounding through the chuck, and try to set up the ground clamp to keep current as far from the chuck as possible. 

The stop block on my fly press has left-hand threads.  If I’m not imagining things, I see them in one of your pictures as well. In any event, I suggest checking before you order the faceplate.  
 

If the threads do match, you might need to cut away the “plate” part of the faceplate to get the nut part flexible enough to clamp down evenly.