newbiesmith

I guess when I say "analog" I am talking in computer terminology. Analog usually means non-binary would be the best way of describing it. A simple on/off switch consists of 2 states. An "analog" dimmer switch like I am referring too is a regular dimmer that has a series of states between off and full on. So your probably using what I am talking about. What your running into is the same kind of issue that I ran into before with my old one switch system where the only switch in the circuit was the dimmer. The point at which there was not enough current to turn the squirrel cage in the blower and where it turned it the speed I wanted to was soo close that I hated having to turn the blower off. That's why I wanted to introduce a second on/off switch so that I could leave the analog switch set to the "sweet spot" and turn the blower off using the on/off switch when i didn't need the blower. That way I don't have to spend the time everytime I turn it off leaning over the blower to see at what point the cage starts spinning. -Dan

Doah Fred. I guess my touchmark design is out then. After I had come up with the idea for putting FF in a diamond for "FrostFire" I saw that the late Francis Whitacre had used the F in a diamond for his touchmark. I figured since it was two F's I was safe but it looks like I'll need to get more creative now. -Dan

My plan for a name for my smithy is "FrostFire Forge". My hometown's name is Frostburg and well I wanted to have a little bit of it in my smithy's name. No matter where I'll end up, that's still where I've come from ;-). -Dan

Thanks to keithh999 I have a new electric blower to replace the one that died on me last month. Thanks a ton man. I figured that while I was at it I might as well look into "refining" the blower control mechanism that came with blower when I bought the forge. The old blower had a dimmer switch between the power lead to the blower and the wall plug. It worked great, yet my only complaint was that if I wanted to turn off the blower, I lost the speed setting it was at. To get around this I had marked the "sweet spot" on the face plate with a red sharpie. My current plan involves having a standard light switch in front of an analog (dimmer) switch so that I can cut power simply by flipping that one off. The materials I have are as follows. * 2 Feet 12/2 with ground * 1 Standard Light switch * 1 Analog Bar dimmer * 1 Dual outlet wall box (gang box) * Faceplate * Blower with 2 Black leads going into it (thanks again keithh999) * 1 ATX Computer Power Supply Cable (with the end that goes in the computer cut off). * Electrical tape and wire nuts. Attached is a roughed out design. So far I'm half way there and wanted to get some early feedback. Primarily because I'd prefer to minimize my chance of peeing sparks because of something I missed. Let me know what you think. If this is something that you guys think is helpful, after I validate it's operation first hand you can put it up as a blueprint ;-). -Dan

Peyton's right the demo was great. I picked the right meeting to be my first guild meeting. Peyton's also got a point. It was nice to see someone my age with the level of experience in the trade. And it kinda puts things in perspective. While I've been beating on Computers for the past 10 years he's been beating on metal. Kinda makes me feel a little bit better about my pathetic stabs at smithing. But like Alwin was saying, his products increase in quality each time he makes them. And that there is nothing better than simply working on a design until you get it the way you want it and then refining it even after that. In short I'm stoked about the guild and will defintiley be going to more of their meetings in the future. Everyone there was great and I enjoyed it immensely. -Dan

Thanks guys .25 was about what I had figured. Basically I know that if someone offers me a good pair of tongs or a hammer I should feel pretty good about giving them at least half the bucket. Thanks guys. -Dan

In all honesty this is a little self serving. I've been "tracking" a couple times over the past few weeks and I've amassed at least a 5gal bucket or so of spikes. I'll be going to a get together that has tailgateing and I was thinking of bringing them with me for my hatchback. I'd like to offer them since not all people have access to em. But I want to make sure that I don't screw people over. I've always liked bartering and get a kick out of trading things for other things and that is an aspect of these smithing get togethers that I find almost as interesting as some of the demos. If I walk away with a set of tongs or a chisel/drift I'd be happy but I definitley don't want to take advantage of anyone in the process. -Dan

how much do rail road spikes usually cost? Is $1 a good price or should they run $.50 or $.25? -Dan

Thanks Peyton and Keith for your responses. Keith that would be great if you want to bring the blower. Just let me know how much you want for it or how many rr-spikes you want for it ;-). Peyton whats the protocol for if you don't have an item for iron in the hat? Do you just chip in $10 at the door? Thanks again you too. I'm really looking forward to getting together. -Dan

I'm planning on comming to the January '08 meeting and I was wondering if there were any tailgaters planning on being there? If there are does anyone have an extra hand crank blower that they'd be willing to sell? If so how much? My electric one on my rivet forge just died and I'll either need to replace it with a electric one or a manual one. Also I have a 5gal bucket full of RR spikes, and RR bolts/nuts. Anyone want me to bring them along to tailgate? -Dan

I made out pretty sweet. I landed "A Blacksmith's Craft, The Legacy of Francis Whitaker". Very very cool book and I can already say that I would recommend it after just one day's read (yeah I cheated and skimmed ahead). Thanks go out to the wife for that one. Then I got the Blacksmith's Craft from Mom. And from my inlaws I landed a $30 gift card to blacksmith supply so I am pretty well set (got starter crosspein and 2 tong kits already ordered). Yeah I just had the big snip and was told by the Doc not to "Do anything unusual for 2 weeks". I asked him if that means that I am not allowed to move my 100# anvil, forge, etc into the yard to forge. He said "Ok let me rephrase what I said. Don't do anything real stupid.....". So I am left to sit and read and wait. Sad thing is the weather here the past week or so has been beautiful and perfect for outdoor forging ;-(. Merry Christmas -Dan

A guy is selling an Old Time Century Welder for $40. He said it is a 200 with a dryer outlet plug on it and that it will do 1/2" to 3/4" no problem. Good deal? Sounds like one. What should I look for in a demo of it etc..... Thanks guys. -Dan

*in a very pompous voice* Ah yes the true answer to this question is related to the relative air speed velocity of an unladen swallow....... -Dan

Thanks Glenn. -Dan

Thanks Glenn. Actually I'll be headed down there tomorrow. Where's the new steel location that your talking about that's in the middle of town? Right now after seeing whitesmith's how to for the easytongs I'm looking to get some bar stock to get started on that project. A couple of the gents on chat Sunday told me about his anvilfire demo. So that'll probably be my first tong attempt, followed by some of the bp's listed here. As for the flux are you refering to just 20 mule team borax? Thanks again Glenn for the tips. -Dan

I'm headed to Charleston WV, this week and I was wondering if there were anything good blacksmithing resources around that area. I'll be lookingn for stuff along the way and will be comming in from the north. What I am looking for is blacksmithing supply shops or anything I guess blacksmith related. I'm in the market for: - Good Coal - Bar stock (round, flat and square) - Assorted old "junky looking" tools ;-). - Very easy to use Flux for starting forge welding. - Etc.... I know all of these can be had online but figured if I was on my way down there anyway, I might as well keep my eyes open. So if you guys know of any shops or resources down there drop me a line. Thanks. -Dan

I can't figure out how to reedit the first post in this message so if anyone knows how to do it let me know. For now I will attach the pics for the completed rake below. It is ugly as sin, but it came from an old rusted bar of scrap iron/steel. I had one of those "Mommy look what I did" moments with the wife and she oohed and awed over it which was sweet. I was actually surprised at how hot this new rivet forge got. I saw the stock I was working get light yellow hot and start sparking. So that means it hit welding heat right? If so I am stoked and very happy. That anthracite caught just fine with a "cheater" brick (firestarter) and my son and I mixed a batch of wet coal up and it made a good bit of coke in fairly short order. I guess over all the rake didn't turn out too bad considering it was pitch dark outside and I only had the light of the iron and forge to guide me. This just makes me want to find a house to buy so much more, even though the rental we are living in is so nice and the rent is cheap. I've already got my smithy desgined in my head ;-). -Dan

I'm going to fire this new forge this weekend (hopefully) and am wondering what projects to start with. I'd like to build up my tool base as quick as possible, but would like to do so in a progressive manner. That way I don't get frustrated and fixated on building a special tool that I have no business tackling yet. My equipment consists of forge, anvil, channel locking pliers, and a coal shovel. And the list things I'm thinking of making are as follows. 1. Forge rake - simple steel bar bent at the end at a 90 degree angle with a curled handle. 2. Hardie cutting wedge - rail road spike, cut in half with a grinder cutoff disc and beat into the shape of hardie cutter. 3. Mid sized punch - round rod tapered and hardened in the shape of a punch. 4. First set of tongs - very basic set. If you guys want to add any suggestions to this list or change the order let me know. If it looks to be a helpful reference for new smiths then feel free to make whatever it turns into sticky ;-). Thanks again guys for all your help. -Dan

Ahh I must have misread the post. I stand corrected. In that case the anvil is fine and dandy in my book. I may take a wire brush to it but thats about it. That is unless you guys recommend putting a coat of krylon on the base and feet? -Dan

The blower is actually connected to a analog light switch knob. So I can actually control the air flow fairly well. The anvil is rough along the edges, and I've read in some articles here that you really want sharp edges on the sides of the anvil for bending hot steel/iron. I personally don't care what it looks like I'm just xxxxxxx extatic to not have to jurry rig a horn and do any more boring into that old 100lb block of steel I was using before for a hardy hole. I guess if worst comes to worse and I really need a sharp edge to bend metal over I can still use that block. It's just that since my "shop" is currently the my parking lot outside my house I didn't want to haul another 100lb block out every night that I get a chance to smith. I long for the day when we own our own house and I can build my own shop. Until then I need to be somewhat portable, which is where the portable forge and smaller anvil came into play. Thanks a ton for the advice and comments guys. I am soo hoping to fire that thing up tonight. I'll keep you all posted. -Dan

The guy ended up throwing in a bucket of RR spikes along with the forge and anvil w/ stand. All in all it seems like a descent deal. The anvil is a little rough on the edges and the blower seems a little small. I kicked it on and there was a good bit of air kickin out. Funny thing is I saw a blower twice this size at a local flea market but couldn't figure out how to rewire the harness, it just had 3 wires and I wanted to set it up for a variable flow. Now thanks to this guy I think I have an idea where my next $20 may go ;-). Take a look at the pics and lemme know if I got a deal. -Dan P.S. Should I try and grind the edges of the anvil a little to smooth them out? Or would that weaken it?

Just talked to a guy and am planning on going to his house tomorrow to look at an anvil and forge. He offered me both an old 100lb anvil and rivet forge with electric, variable speed blower for $175. The anvil is old and is showing some wear and tear. The forge was also reworked a little to accomodate the electric blower. And the guy is throwing in a bag of anthracite (sp?) to go with it. Overall it sounds like a good deal. But as my name implies I'm a wouldn't know a good deal if it stood in front of me and beat me with hot iron. The guy told me he bought both the anvil and forge about 9 years ago and has since had two kids and has had to lay down the hammer due to time constraints. He's turnning his smithy into a wood shed. What do you guys think? I'm thinking from talking with the guy that I may get lucky and be able to work some other items into the deal. But at the same time I don't want to put the screws to the guy or get screwed in the process, since I am still figuring out pricing and what not. Any advice on things to look for besides the obvious signs of abuse/excessive use? Any help would be great. Thanks. -Dan

Thanks a ton Gents for your advice. I think I will start with redoing the whole air intake mechanism (tyere i think). I also found a pretty sweet piece of circular steel that I may put to use in a new redneck forge design once I find some legs for it and something to bring up the walls of the fire pot a little. I'll post a pic of it later on when I get home. Glenn, I saw all the BP#s you referenced and I am at a loss for what they are and where you found them. Are they supposed to be links to somewhere? Also, I have no idea what I have to work with as far as coal. All I know is that the guy I rented my house from said that I had free reign to all the coal that was in the coal bin that the guy that moved out this past summer left. So I'm thinking free = sweet. Well thats what I thought until it looked like it wasn't coking or burning consistently. I mean I've run the gambit as far as size goes, using tiny chunks, to using larger chunks. Soooo I may have to look for some other type of coal. It's sad because I'm living in the coal state of West Virginia and I'm having soo much trouble. I actually took the hair dryer out of the vent port and blew it on the fire. The only thing that turned white hot was the wood that was burning and sparks started flying everywhere. I was running around with the garden hose, putting out the lawn. So needless to say I need to figure out a good way of catching that stuff in a hood or something. Well I'll be going a festival this weekend that has a huge flea market/yard sale with a reputation for having smithing tools. Maybe I can find some honest to god tools, blowers and anvils to choose from. Thanks guys for all the help and I'll catch you later. -Dan

Well gents, the wife took my son out for the evening and left me alone at home with nothing to do but smith. From 6 till 9 I had free reign. At no point throughout the process did I even get the two pieces of junkyard stock to turn color. Prior to lighting everything off I drilled several additional holes in the fire grate as recommended by you guys in a previous post. I then went ahead figuring that there may be problems with clogs, etc towards the end of the evening. Well the evening never got off the ground. I tried everything throughout the evening. I tried shifting the coal around. I tried using less coal. I tried using more coal. I tried using wood to really get things started. And at times I employed charcoal started (bottle was empty by the end of the night). Absolutely nothing. I've attached pics of the my outdoor smithy, with forge, anvil and pictures of the stock I used. I couldn't even get the copper strip to a point where it was fully maluable. I'm on my third beer at the moment as I ponder what went wrong. If you guys could take a look and maybe direct me to some more info on setting myself up with a good fire I'd apprecaite it. In fact any info on the average time it takes for a forgeing fire to get going would be appreciated and or direction to a forge fire 101 faq would be great. Thanks a ton guys. -Dan

Woot finally completed my first forge. Here's the details. Brake Drum firepot - Free Old scrap mower deck - $3 Old Dell PowerEdge 2500 Tower Case scrap from work (for frame stand)- Free SCSI Hard Drive tray from scrapped server for fire grate - Free Scrap Pipe from scrapyard (purchased with a ton of other junk for $5) Showing up to work the day after tomorrow with no eyebrows. Priceless... On a serious note I should be fireing this up tomorrow just to see if I can get it hot enough to hit red (or hotter, depending on how the first part goes). Should I be concerned that I used bolts on this since I didn't have access to a welder? Also any other recommendations for a guy about to "become a blacksmithing" so to speak? Thanks for the help and the advice. I'm looking forward to tomorrow night. -Dan