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I Forge Iron

arcc

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Everything posted by arcc

  1. I'm building a new forge, one that will work much better than the one I'm using now, however I have a question. My firepot will be 4 to 4 1/2 inches deep, should I make the top of the firepot level with the table or bump it up off the table around an 1/2 inch and cut a 1/2 notch into the firepot for the steel to sit in. Any opinions appreciated. .
  2. I would also recommend contacting your local water works. I work for Heflin Water works and we have a meter that attaches to the hydrant in case someone wants to fill up a pool or something. They would charge you for the water used, but it's an option.
  3. Agree 100%. I fooled with that other stump for a while now, and while it is nice and level, the rocking made some things like using the horn a pain. I'm planning on forging tomorrow and seeing how the stump fairs. I may end up cutting some off the forge side to get the anvil closer to the edge, but I want to make sure first as getting that monster up to my forge was a pain and I don't want to mess it up.
  4. Good suggestion. I may try and see if I can slide it over a little.
  5. This should help immensely. Old, 50 pound stump. New, 300+ pound, higher, more level stump.
  6. Sorry for the non-response, I didn't even see this thread. From what I can read it says, Hay Budden --------------- (letters scratched off) Brooklyn 842 I think it weighs ~80 pounds. Here is a large picture.
  7. Buck Coal&Ice out of Columbus, GA is where I get my coal. Last time I bought some it was $12.50 a 50 pound bag. The coal isn't the best (oily and smoky) and you may have to chip some down yourself, but cokes really well and is very clean when it does so. Gonna go back and get a truck load next month.
  8. Just wanted to say thanks for all the advice. I'm getting the hang of it and it's working well!
  9. Thank you, I'll try that. Just an annoying type deal. Like I said, I know I could get by, but the perfectionist in me wants to do it correctly. BTW, I'm welding 1/4 inch square stock.
  10. I've did a good bit of faggot welding today. I am trying to really hone in on the best way to do it. However, I have a problem, I cannot for the life of me get the tiny seams to disappear completely. The welds are very strong. I just sheared two welds I made, and actually broke the stock before I broke the weld.(in a vice, beating on one end with a hammer.) I know the problem has to be in my technique somewhere. Any solutions would be greatly appreciated. I guess the very small seams don't matter in the long run very much, but they are really a pain in my backside.
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