SReynolds

ummmmm.......................masonry (North East Ohio)

The brake drum base for a 201 blower assy.

...of my forge? Yeah, you may have all you'd like, but I don't use these drums for a forge. I use them as a base for grinders,vises and a big old Buffalo blower unit.

If you'd like a picture of that, I can post that up on this site. I am planning a series of photos (for this site) of a rebuild that involves a brake drum base for my Buffalo blower.

............you understand that when I say "base" I mean a literal "base" It is what the blower is mounted to. I need something (very) heavy in which to support a large blower like the Buffalo model 201 blower.

A student of mine tells me he has used a foot operated air pump. probably 0.50 cents at a garage sale. I informed him a hair dryer would work better and his eyes lit up!

.......I do understand that some just won't spend any $$ for a set-up. That is fine. Though, I would imagine that it won't be long untill frustration overcomes the novelty.

I have many of these (used) truck brake drums (11 inches deep and 16.75 inches I.D.) lying around the shop. I have been selling them off as scrap because they are about 75 lbs apiece. Lately I'm thinking of keeping some back for a base. In fact I just recycled one into a base for a (very large) Buffalo Model 21 blower assy. Something that size requires a solid foot print and a cast brake drum of 17.25 inch O.D would fill the bill.

See attatched.

I found this clean-one-owner Champion on e-bay for a super deal. I must say, it's a much smaller blower than my 400. It has no ball bearings to growl at me and turns free, is tight and operates with no noise!

Anyone know what model this forge and/or blower is???

Upon taking it apart, I had found the blower to be originally painted RED. I ws informed that they once were, but never believed it. No so sure they would look "normal" painted red. Someday I may try that on one of my units.

I use spray grease. It goes in like a thin oil and then something evaporates and it then becomes very tacky/slippery. It sticks to the gears. Nasty stuff. You cannot wipe it up off the floor. You'd have to use brake parts cleaner.

I used some ATF once and thought it too light, but then I don't use these gear boxes in the freezing weather either!!

90w gear oils made a big mess.

I had wondered about ATF as a lube. I mean, if it is inside a transmission gear box, what other oil is in there to lube the gears/bushings and bearings...............................???? Someone had once told me that they DON'T want a lubricant that would burn and if ATF will burn, then they don't want that inside of their automatic transmission.......................Huh?????

I just picked up yet another Champion forge with blower, for well under 200.00 It is fully operational and simply needs a good cleaning. For that price, I will continue to tell people that in my personal opinion, it is far better to buy one than to experiment with building one from scrounged parts and the time to put it all together. Not to mention locating a suitable air supply and experiemnt with that as well.

I have heard a number of horror stories from students in their attempt to build an operational forge from scrap stuff. Their struggle for a quality air supply alone would be enough for me to locate a different hobby.

The smaller model Champion blowers do not employ ball bearings and appear to be much less suceptable to deterioration when compared to the 400 with all the (ball) bearings. The smaller units can be a rusty mess and turn free, with very little noise compared to that growl you'll get from the 400 with debris and wear inside the gear box.

I teach a blacksmith class for the historical society and recommend a hand cranked blower to students for obvious reasons. Heck, that is what they are made for. Anyhow, I hear of students with all sorts of air movers. My opinion is to buy a forge blower the first time and save money/time.

The main problem with electric is that you have to turn the switch on/off constantly, or your going to burn up your fuel supply in a hurry. That gets old after a while, and so it remains on, and burns up the workpiece too.

Yep. the Champion 400 is very costly. As mentioned above, there are many others out there, for cheap. I even scored a very large Buffalo blower for free!!! You just gotta ask.

hummmmmmm

I have two Trenton Anvils and was told on this forum they are made in Trenton N.J.

Columbus Ohio sounds better though, as that is much closer.

I had one replace in the hyd shop as mine was bent. I had asked if it was anything special and was informed it was mild steel with Chromed O.D.

The replacement was not chromed, just mild steel. Should have kept that old rod.

Thanks guys. That has really helped me. I appreciate your time/replies.

....smith on!

The topic becomes grey (as opposed to black and white) when an item is sold in a store or given away as a gift.

When said item is sold as "hand made in the blacksmith shop" and it is not 100% made in the blacksmith shop. In other words, if I hand forge a percentage of an item in the blacksmith shop, then take it to my garage and mig weld it/paint it, then sell it in the blacksmith shop as "hand made in the blacksmith shop."

I know of a business that does exactly that. When I asked how it was made, I was informed of the method and also informed that it is not a lie because a percentage of any one item IS, in reality, HAND FORGED in THAT blacksmith shop.The welds are smoothed over and reheated then hammered to blend the weld with the surrounding steel, aka hiding the weld.

I didn't think much of it at first, but now that I operate a blacksmith shop AND sell these items, I would like to be up front with people. I'm not so sure welding is hand made, but then I do it myself, not a robot. Also, drilling a hole with an electric drill press in a hand forged item as opposed to hot punching the same hole on the anvil.

Maybe I need to have items tagged as 90% made in the blacksmith shop? Or, 90% hand made?.......that sounds dumb.

uhmmmm,,,I was supposed to CLAY this model of forge prior to USE?????????????

What is the clay for? I forge metal with out clay..............

I was trained by two very different gentlemen. One is perhaps "old school" where only primitive hand tools are used. No welder/power hammer/electric drills/grinders/band-saw/you name it. You know, old schol stuff.

The other, also a very experienced/established "blacksmith", told me to use the "whatever-it-takes-method" to get it done........namely the above items mentioned.

So, accordring to the "old schooler" smith, I can be either a Blacksmith OR a metalworker aka fabricator aka welder.

My question..................is welding, employing a set of jigs and use of a grinder CHEATING AT BLACKSMITHING when you are still using a coal forge/anvil and hammer????????????

I feel like I'm letting real blacksmiths down and slapping the trade/art in the face.

Help in Ohio

I have had some small fires in my rebuilt Champion forge. It is of a steel pan with cast iron air pipe. I have installed a new floor in the pan of 1/4" steel plate.

Upon building larger fires, as if I were to use it, the forge emits popping noises, like a cast iron engine block. I'm concerned that it will crack. It is old and has probably been used many times, but this worries me.

................should I have left the attatching hardware loose? Do these steel forges with cast iron air pipes normally make sounds like this? I can't imagine what will happen when I begin to sprinkle water on the hot coals!

This is my first portable unit as my other forge is fire brick/stone/morter etc. with a metal plate in the bottom. It makes no noise.

I use the coke, it is there from the last fire and light that with one of them fire starters (compressed saw dust and candel wax)and then a few pieces of scrap wood. I never had the patience to wadd up news print and hope that catches the coke on fire. That was how I was tought by a master blacksmith. Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. Old news print is free, but time is money and I don't enjoy wadding that up when I can strike a match to the fire starter.


There are some ideas on Youtube that are entertaining if nothing more. One method involes the news print and kindling, then adding clinkers. Yeah, clinkers. I guess they are supposed to light easier than coke or coal.

I purchased mine painted. It was paint over rust and was blue and black. After I removed every nut and bolt, I removed every bit of paint, then the rust. I used high temp black for the forge.

I too have much time as I then took the Champion blower apart to see what it's made of. That was fun,,,,,, not. I had found it in terriffic shape. I polished the castings, again, after removing all of that paint.

It functions quite well and also serves as a decorative piece. I hope to buy another small forge very soon, of a different brand and perform same.

I was at the forge this weekend and was asked by a horse owner why I was making holes in that horse shoe.........

I have had to get serious with my old Leg vise and put the screws to her. I have it operational now with the help of a modified jaw pivot bolt and a modified leg support. The spring is very weak however and the jaw won't open but only 1 inch on its own as I have had to make the new pivot bolt super tight (which has tightened up the jaw alignment quite a bit).

I can now use it!!

I see many of these listed on e-bay. But what confuses me is the fact they are listed as "very nice" but then go into details about how far out of alignment the jaws are (side to side). That is one of the reasons I has problems using use my leg vise at the historical society.

I don't get it......

I like my real old Columbian bench tops as opposed to the leg vise at the society.

Yeah.......there is something about twisting that makes them

....that and forge a nail, cool it and hand it to them. They are sorta like ..."aint that HOT!!??" If there is more than one kid, then you meake one for each! :P

Demmo is what I do (along with interpretation @ same time)and I feel very unqualified to answer your question.

I have visited a number of demmo locations: I have seen from one extream to the other.

Both of these extreams are at well known/established locations. The first has the smith barricaded behind a wood fence AND a large metal screen. Seriously..... You can't get close.

The other, another well known historical site, positions the VISITORS right next to the anvil while the smith strikes the hot iron. a very small shop, indeed! I suppose one could step out-of-doors to watch.......

My location had no established policy. I established one myself. I allow the visitors near, but out of harms way from flying sparks and debris. I set artifacts around my area to keep them out, otherwise, they walk right up next to the anvil!

see my pic.

......nor do I advocate stealing old brake drums. Why I drove the distance I did to buy one for $35 plus tax.

On the same note, I recently stopped in at two auto parts stores and no dice on used drums. They stock pile them and trade them for scrap iron cash. Who wouldn't?

I have seen old cast iron cookware used. That may be easier to locate and perhaps cheaper.

I agree that 110 volt leaf blowers are noisy. That would get real old.

....yeah, I thought it REAL odd that I couldn't just "get" one. It was explained to me that folks are so cheap now, that thay "hunt" for used brakes parts to install on an operational vehicle. Thusly, they are no longer "allowed" to sell you one.


There are options here and I won't go into details, other than to say it may be a five finger discount or you literally pay some guy at a salvage yard (under the table mind you) to snag you one.

Law suits are law suits. It is the times which we live in.

Funny; cuz the books written back in the 70's when blacksmithing became a popular past-time, say you can build your own brake drum forge for free and that the old forge blowers would only cost you a few bucks. (Please read the print date of your "How To" blacksmithing book)

Anyone buy an old Champion blower on e-bay for a few bucks???? LOL LOL LOL :blink:

I understand many seem to find it easier aka cheaper to build your own (DIY), but unless you understand how the principles work or copy cat a design, AND own a scrap/junk yard, it would seem that one would be time AND money ahead to buy one.............

I began with a brake drum and THAT ALONE cost me 35.00 plus the tax and the time and $$ to drive to a town that has a salvage yard which would sell me one. Law suits are law suits and not every scrap dealer/junk yeard/auto-salvage is allowed to sell you an old rusty/used brake drum.

Then the blower, the steel to fabricate etc.etc.etc. an it adds up quickly if you have to locate AND buy this stuff. Then if it won't operatre correctly........

This is my 175.00 factory unit.
No fuss.And I didn't have to drive out of my way to locate this.Pic is of the first fire I was building....

Don't you have coal or coke available to you? Anyone can have it shipped to their door if you can't get it locally.