Dan P.

Further to my post some time ago about a hammer I bought, I would like to hear your thoughts about what is going on with the upper die. The photos below show the die, the shoe it sits on, and the key from various angles. The die itself is made from wrought iron with a steel face welded on. The shoe is made from cast steel. The ram is also made from wrought iron. I believe that the configuration is intentional because it is all seems machined and/or cast with a view to achieving that configuration. Whether it was intended for this hammer is another story, but either way, I'm curious as to what the reason is. My only concern (I will be buying or having made new dies) is that the shoe is necessary to protect the ram, as it is made from a softer material. A sort of mini sow-block. In which case, I will put a shim of fairly thick copper between the new die and the bottom of the dovetail in the ram. What do you all think?

One of the secrets to doing this sort of weld right is getting a nice thin scarf.

I think any oxy-acetylene outfit is something that is worth buying new. Acetylene is spooky stuff!

"Swage" and "swedge" are almost identical in pronunciation. It's the difference between a long "e" and a short one.

If it were a French pronunciation, it wouldn't be Nay- anything, it would be Na-, with a short a.

I had very small red worms living in my front bosh at one point. I don't know what their deal was, but they didn't bother me so I didn't bother them.

It's my opinion that you are barking up the wrong tree with this hammer. Do what thou wilt, of course, but there is very likely a very good reason that deadblow hammers are not used for smithing.

Fitting? Welding? Machining? Numeracy? Technical Drawing? I'm no machinist, but I know I'd be stuffed if I wasn't able to weld or work things out on paper. Or count. Or be able to fit. Knowing how to tap a hole has saved the day on many occasions. I couldn't be a blacksmith if I couldn't drive. Being able to braze doesn't hurt. Or braze-weld. Fire welding is a must. A little masonry can't hurt either. etc. etc. etc.

I am most skeptical about blacksmithing having a "purest form". With that said, the list of skills needed to be able to accomplish anything would be infinitely long, don't you think? Tying your shoelaces might be the beginning of an ascent of Mt. Everest, but it might also be the beginning of a trip to the store to buy a XXXXXX magazine because a virus crashed your computer. You know?

Tippex resists pretty high heats. I believe in the US it is called "white-out" or similar; it is for correcting type-written mistakes.

I'm just repeating information that I gathered from reading the "history" link that you posted. A National Occupational Standard is being sought by, I believe, NHIG, to redress that situation.

Incorporated; 1571, subscription surrendered; 1785, i.e. 214 years operating as a proper guild. And I don't believe there is any reason to think that Tijou had anything to do with the (at that time apparently already moribund) Worshipful Company. I doubt very much that he would have been allowed membership anyway, being French.

Think what you like, the history in your link spans about 200 years and nominally covered a radius of 4 miles around London. Not exactly comprehensive!

Although women smiths are historically rare, they seem to be less rare than female practitioners of other trades. Strange.

I think the UK is perhaps an honourable exception when it comes to women smiths, because we were by and large unshackled by the guild system (an import of dubious quality), and thus did not have to adhere to any silly laws or conventions concerning the gender of blacksmiths.

Peacock, could you elaborate on what you mean by upsetting them hot? Thanks & Regards, Dan

Weird, looks like a casting made using a Peter Wright as a pattern.

Thanks for posting these photos, very interesting!

Good Lord...

It is fixable in some ways. It can be welded or preferably replaced. It may speak of my knowledge of electrics that I don't know what a commando plug is. The wiring in question is 3 phase direct into the wall, not something I am willing to tango with.

Extremely helpful replies, thank you Peacock, Owen. Owen, the leaves are about 60mm wide, maximum 8mm thick. I have yet to hear back from the spring people (not the firm you suggested, they recommended another firm who do leaf springs), but might you have this section? I think this spring already has a farmer weld repair. It might take another, we'll see how it goes. Of course, the crack itself seems to have originated from a center punch. Sam, your offer to import, refurbish, then return my hammer ALL FOR FREE is exceptionally generous! What's you address? This is going to be GREAT!

I found today that the main spring is broken. There is a crack that goes all the way through, but was hiding behind a bolt where I didn't notice it before. I expect the hammer would be operational as it is, because the leaves are all riveted together. However, in the interests of optimal efficiency and safety, this is not something I am going to do. The springs as they are a very specific shape. The individual leaves are also tapered. I will have to have these made up by a specialist spring shop. The funny curvature, as well as the fact that they are tapered or "feathered" suggests to me that having replacements made is going to cost quite a lot (I am waiting on an estimate of exactly how much). So here are a few more questions; Do you think the shape of the springs is important, as long as they are in a general bow shape? Do you think it is important that they be feathered? I have seen on Japanese hammer single, chunky bow springs. What are the pros/cons of that? Here is another idea; I have the capacity to forge the springs to shape myself, but I would send them away to be heat treated. Has anyone tried this? I am wondering if they would be better heat treated all riveted together or individually. Individually they might warp, just a little, but enough to no longer be a perfect fit. Your thoughts please ladies & gents! -Dan

My update is the chuffing spring is broken, which makes little odds, as the electrician who is meant to be wiring the motor appears to be second cousin to Houdini, or was it Lord Lucan?

Excellent!

Thanks for the pics. What speed does she go?