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I Forge Iron

Johnny Woolsey

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Everything posted by Johnny Woolsey

  1. I use a flap disc to accent the high spots and use patinas from Sur-Fin Chemicals. Heat also works on polished steel.I use a weed burner as it gives off a softer heat.
  2. http://share.shutter...cid=EM_sharview This link is something the homeowner put together. I installed the jail cell door Saturday.It is made from some wonderful 3/8in plate I found at the salvage yard.Weighs in just shy of 400# .It's nice to get a perspective of the "house" around the work.
  3. I agree Jake.If the aesthetic works it works. I often use patinas and have to create an assembly so I can finish then assemble. Thanks Beth.
  4. fireplace screen detail.PDFI guess I need to share how I tensioned the brass as it sounds as if the way I did it was simpler. Now , I came into blacksmithing from the fab/welding side so don't laugh.I used socket head cap screws to sandwich my assembly together after I sealed and finished all the parts. I then punched a hole in a soup can which I placed over the capscrew and like I imagine a "drop the tongs" forge weld would appear I mig weld the allen hole up and "quickly" use the heat to head the bolt into a rivet.(The soup can catches the spatter from the welding) Then after touching up and waxing I drove the second round rod into the slot. Actually worked quite well. I use coreldraw so please forgive my drawing Thanks Jake and Ianinsa for your options.I'll keep them in mind.
  5. Thanks for the encouragement and compliments. Quik60, I needed a way to tension the brass screen after finish and assembly.I sandwiched the screen between the 3/8 back parts and the forged front parts and drove a 1/4 in round bar to tension the screen. Would love to hear if there is an easier way to get the brass screen tight. This trolley door is in the same house.
  6. I have been working on my first large commission project since moving to Middle Tennessee from out west. Usually do a lot of "lurking" but after following the thread started by Jake in Alaska I decided I should share. This project included a lot of "1st's" for me including fireplace doors, range hood, and drawer pulls.
  7. Thanks for the replies and info. I ended up finding a company called Screen Technology Group that was a great help.They provided what they called 8 mesh in a .025 brass wire delivered for about $7.30 a square foot. This was almost half what others had quoted. Thanks again for your help. Johnny
  8. I am working with a client on my first commission of fireplace doors for a large fireplace.We have decided on brass screen but I have no idea as to wire size and opening size that would be appropriate. The design is very simple but has large unsupported openings to be filled with the screen.(32" X 26" inside the frames on each side) I see a lot of suppliers online but would appreciate recommendations from "The Professionals" Thanks Johnny
  9. Thomas, I can take I40 or I70.Where does a person pickup "Sewall" coal? Also, good idea on contacting the Utah folks direct. I know there are several members on Iforge and thought they would see it here. Johnny
  10. Folks, just wanted to add that I am going to Utah anyway. Fuel is around 5 to 6 hundred for the trip. If I can cover some of this and move something for someone else, great. Maybe "truck for hire" was the wrong title. I relocated to middle Tn. a few weeks ago and have a trailer I left that I need to go retrieve.
  11. I have a 1 ton flat-bed truck traveling from middle Tennessee to Utah in the next couple of weeks.I am hoping to find a load or partial load to help cover fuel costs. I might have some room on the return trip as well.Any help would be appreciated. Johnny
  12. Have you ever been sent to the store for " diced peppers ", been standing in front of them on the shelf but unable to see them until you ask an associate? Welcome to my world Thanks for your help Johnny
  13. Hello folks, I recently relocated from Utah to Tennessee and would like to change my user name and update my Email address.I tried using the search function but didn't see any results that were helpful.Any help would be appreciated. Johnny.
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  15. For myself, Art is anything that inspires emotion, on purpose.I feel a strong design can overcome poor execution(process or skill).I believe that an elevated process (skill) adds impact to any design.I think my ability to produce work that sells greatly improved when I gave up a certain amount of control or rigidity to outcome.Often an idea as first conceived doesn't work as imagined. If I can recognize this when in process I can set it aside until know how to proceed.The subconscious knows what is right.Listen. My two bits. Johnny
  16. I own a Nimba "Gladiator" and it was my first anvil shaped anvil. (I used re-purposed forklift forks to start.)I had been advised to get the the heaviest I could afford. I love the Gladiator for a lot of my work, But at times the face is too wide. Yes , you can use the the flat horn for narrower sections but I often jump to my 90# Trenton.I really like the look of Mr. Hofi's anvil and would lean that way if I would have had more experience.BTW my brief moment of more money than sense has passed. Johnny
  17. Both of these sites have good products. The Sculpt Nouveau site has more educational info IMHO. Sur-Fin Chemicals http://www.surfinchemical.com/ Sculpt Nouveau http://www.sculptnouveau.com/ With most patina products it is VERY important to keep your work clean especially from oil and wax.I often polish with a flapdisk and then apply patina. It really shows highlights and gives a nice contrast to the dark millscale. Johnny
  18. I use CORELDRAW to generate my drawings.I have 7 and 13 versions and the simpler 7 seems to work best for me. For exact CAD type stuff it isn't as precise as some programs but I haven't taken the time to learn the process of a CAD program. Corel lets me get a basic shape on board and then I can manipulate and add individual control points.It works great for art type work. If you plan using your machine for machine parts and designing mechanical parts I would recommend learning a CAD type program.
  19. As a student of this craft as well I would highly recommend taking Mr. Powers comments to heart.The knowledge of process will reveal to you the tools required for a given outcome.I believe in another thread Thomas recommended acquiring only the basic tools to start and as skills improve you will know what tools will aid you the most.This advice has has proven very useful to me personally.(Thanks Thomas) Johnny
  20. I started with the cheapest kit TORCHMATE makes about 9 years ago.It worked.I upgraded a couple of years ago to a DYNATORCH system with servo motors. I am very pleased with the improvement and the folks answer the phone and have been very helpful.I would use DYNATORCH again if I were to upgrade.
  21. Grant How about a name that resembles this overall creative process? "TRANSFORMER" Johnny
  22. I use a propane weed burner for "heat patina". Soft even heat, clean steel, patience, and practice. Johnny
  23. I finally took the time to apply your modification to my P6 Flypress.I knew it would be advantagious when you first posted the mod, but...WOW! Thanks Grant,for this and all the other great info you and others so generously share. Johnny
  24. I have a HF version about 10 yrs. old and had no trouble at all, until I misplaced it. Purchased a new one and in 3 hours the drive pin broke. It was replaced for free and broke in almost the exact same place in 2 hours. They sent a new one but I am looking hard for the old original . Johnny
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