dragonflySmithy

I'd buy some new contact tips instead of ordering a special tap. Likely cost less. I am using some Lincoln Electric tips from Lowes, they have 1/4-28 threads.
Phil

Thats one nice blade sam. With that curve how did you heat treat it?

I have been wanting to make some of these so that I can make a few war arrows. A good buddy of mine shoots archery in the SCA. Well maybe for next X-mas.

The best alloy I think for the OP to use is Adamantium. It should produce a sword that will meet his standards. I don't know of any mill that is making it any more but he might be able to find it in a scrap yard somewere.

The other thing that you could do is to melt crushed glass into a hole in the steel. Use a punch to make the hole so that it will be tapered fill with coloured glass and work it with a rosebud tip.

If you are out of Virgins blood you can sub it for babies tears. I have good luck using that as a quench agent. For some reason virgins are getting harder and harder to find these days.:rolleyes:

For me I find it easier to hot form large pieces like placards and thigh plates. While other things are better worked cold.

I ran across a technique for removing heavy rust from steel and iron. It consists of filling a nonconductive container with water adding sodium carbonate (pool additive to raise PH) teaspoon per gallon of water. You then attach a battery charger (car variety) negative electrode to rusyed part and then attach positive electrode to a piece of scrap steel. Caution are to wear protective goggles, do not allow the + and - charged parts to touch, dont reach in the water while connected, etc and use in a well ventilated area as hydrodgen gas is a by product.

Supposedly this process will not harm the base metal, no matter how long left in process.

I have several old sets of tongs that I would like to treat. I picked ouy the rusyiest set and hooked them up. Witin 10 minutes I had bubbles forming. After a couple of hours there was already a noticeable difference, I can't wait to see what they look like in the morning.

Steve

Remember that HC on a RR spike does not mean HIGH CARBON, it means HIGHER CARBON than the mild steel run of the mill spikes. Carbon Content of a HC spike is 30 points or .30%. To be fully hardenable plain carbon steel must be at least 60 to 65 points carbon that is .60% to .65% carbon.

Why would it need to be tiped with steel? An 800-900gr arrow being fired from a 120+LB long bow 200-300m's would go right through most if not all armor of its day. I'm sure that it would still mess up some ones day even if it was tiped with bronze.

I just dig them out when they become a problem. I have a long piece of 1/4 tapered to a long point that I use to dig in the fire. The poker also comes in handy to tell when the billet is ready to weld. If the point will stick to the billet then it is ready.

My main forge is using 2 3/4 in side arm burners with a .35-.30(don't remember) mig tip. For nomal forging I run it at 5-7psi. While doing normal stuff I get about 8hrs of play time off of a 30lb tank. Forge welding I run it at about 10 psi but I don't run it that long like that. Just enough to get the job done.

I would go with the tin roof. Mine has held up well and no fires yet.:D

When using a plasma I wear yellow safty glasses that are uv blocking. I also wear them while welding under my hood. As far as haveing to flame cut or weld galvanized steel I use a mask with filters that are rated for the job. It is made by the 3M corp and cost me like $20. The filters on the mask are replaceable. It is a life saver. The only other thing that I could add is to make sure the you have good air flow in your shop.

Just fill it back up with the right type of oil.:D

jungle of null

I use everything from files to 1000grit paper.

Whats wrong with gas???

Just out of curiosity, where and what was this person fighting? Did he wear these to the bar or something? (small bad joke there)

Blueprints on armour making are encouraged. (hint - hint)

Do you mean Tomahawk? Or an actual bird? I've seen a RR spike tomahawk but not a bird. That would be cool to see.

Actually I'd say about 90% of the armour makers today are *NOT* blacksmiths; they do all their work cold and don't even have a method of heating metal in their shops, they don't know how to work hot metal! Check the forums over at ArmourArchive.org.

Now I point this out to all the young folks wanting to make armour; but I also mention that that last 10% include the very gods of modern armour making who both have the skills and tools for working hot and so can make jaw dropping armour, there's even one fellow who has made reproductions of Negroli pieces!

And don't forget to normalize before you harden.

Good luck,

Don

yes. This is one of my son's favorites.

What starts with T. Ends with T and is full of T?