dragonflySmithy

I agree on the new tips and the other thing to do is to hit them with some solder to make sure it's sealed.

Thats one nice blade sam. With that curve how did you heat treat it?

I have been wanting to make some of these so that I can make a few war arrows. A good buddy of mine shoots archery in the SCA. Well maybe for next X-mas.

The best alloy I think for the OP to use is Adamantium. It should produce a sword that will meet his standards. I don't know of any mill that is making it any more but he might be able to find it in a scrap yard somewere.

The other thing that you could do is to melt crushed glass into a hole in the steel. Use a punch to make the hole so that it will be tapered fill with coloured glass and work it with a rosebud tip.

If you are out of Virgins blood you can sub it for babies tears. I have good luck using that as a quench agent. For some reason virgins are getting harder and harder to find these days.:rolleyes:

For me I find it easier to hot form large pieces like placards and thigh plates. While other things are better worked cold.

You can do the same thing with borax and a car battery charger. It will also put a layer of black oxide on the part to help keep it from rusting again.

Have you never used super quench? If it will give 1018 a RC of 40-45 just think what it wouyld do for a knife made from a HC spike. Would it be my first choise.. No but if it's what the OP likes to make then this might be a way for him to make a better blade without having to forge weld in blade steel.

Why would it need to be tiped with steel? An 800-900gr arrow being fired from a 120+LB long bow 200-300m's would go right through most if not all armor of its day. I'm sure that it would still mess up some ones day even if it was tiped with bronze.