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I Forge Iron

dragonflySmithy

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Everything posted by dragonflySmithy

  1. I agree on the new tips and the other thing to do is to hit them with some solder to make sure it's sealed.
  2. Thats one nice blade sam. With that curve how did you heat treat it?
  3. I have been wanting to make some of these so that I can make a few war arrows. A good buddy of mine shoots archery in the SCA. Well maybe for next X-mas.
  4. The best alloy I think for the OP to use is Adamantium. It should produce a sword that will meet his standards. I don't know of any mill that is making it any more but he might be able to find it in a scrap yard somewere.
  5. The other thing that you could do is to melt crushed glass into a hole in the steel. Use a punch to make the hole so that it will be tapered fill with coloured glass and work it with a rosebud tip.
  6. If you are out of Virgins blood you can sub it for babies tears. I have good luck using that as a quench agent. For some reason virgins are getting harder and harder to find these days.:rolleyes:
  7. For me I find it easier to hot form large pieces like placards and thigh plates. While other things are better worked cold.
  8. You can do the same thing with borax and a car battery charger. It will also put a layer of black oxide on the part to help keep it from rusting again.
  9. Have you never used super quench? If it will give 1018 a RC of 40-45 just think what it wouyld do for a knife made from a HC spike. Would it be my first choise.. No but if it's what the OP likes to make then this might be a way for him to make a better blade without having to forge weld in blade steel.
  10. Why would it need to be tiped with steel? An 800-900gr arrow being fired from a 120+LB long bow 200-300m's would go right through most if not all armor of its day. I'm sure that it would still mess up some ones day even if it was tiped with bronze.
  11. dragonflySmithy

    S4021868

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  12. dragonflySmithy

    S4021868

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  13. dragonflySmithy

    S4021868

    From the album: Simple knives

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  14. dragonflySmithy

    S4021866

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  15. dragonflySmithy

    S4021866

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  16. dragonflySmithy

    S4021866

    From the album: Simple knives

    7 #/4 inch blade. 12.5 inches overall. Hand forged and finished from 1095.
  17. I just dig them out when they become a problem. I have a long piece of 1/4 tapered to a long point that I use to dig in the fire. The poker also comes in handy to tell when the billet is ready to weld. If the point will stick to the billet then it is ready.
  18. dragonflySmithy

    S4021834

    From the album: lawn art

  19. dragonflySmithy

    S4021833

    From the album: lawn art

  20. dragonflySmithy

    S4021832

    From the album: lawn art

    Unfinished flower for the wife.
  21. My main forge is using 2 3/4 in side arm burners with a .35-.30(don't remember) mig tip. For nomal forging I run it at 5-7psi. While doing normal stuff I get about 8hrs of play time off of a 30lb tank. Forge welding I run it at about 10 psi but I don't run it that long like that. Just enough to get the job done.
  22. I would go with the tin roof. Mine has held up well and no fires yet.:D
  23. When using a plasma I wear yellow safty glasses that are uv blocking. I also wear them while welding under my hood. As far as haveing to flame cut or weld galvanized steel I use a mask with filters that are rated for the job. It is made by the 3M corp and cost me like $20. The filters on the mask are replaceable. It is a life saver. The only other thing that I could add is to make sure the you have good air flow in your shop.
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