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KNeilson

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Everything posted by KNeilson

  1. Heres a pic of some gravers I made....o-1, 5/16 drill rod ......hope this helps... K
  2. Casting aluminum and 6061 are two different animals. If you want to cast, use old scrap castings as your material source. You will find the 6061 (a wrought alloy)will melt but not "run" very well into a mold unless it is very well preheated. A casting alloy will more than likely machine better too......imho......Kerry
  3. Check out this site....Industrial Archaeology Recordings Index I bought the video compilation" Wilf Davies, filecutter" Very interesting, a historical look at the Shefeild area trades, ........Kerry
  4. White sugar has lot of carbon in it. Ive been told that pow tunnelers in ww2 used it to case harden their digging tools. These were usually a tin can that had been slash cut and a handle added. As a youth I had limited results trying this,I dont bother now as I prefer to use a more appropriate material such as tool steels or other more high carbon steels.......Kerry
  5. Lockout is a very important thing that should have more attention paid to it!! A safety orientation should be given to new employees, contractors, service workers etc., and should be done upon entry to the site, not after. This is(or used to be)standard procedure when I was active in industry. If you were not told where or how to lockout, I would take the time to look very well at your job and try to think of eliminating any potential problems that could affect you. Look for the electrical supply and dont just throw a breaker, Take out the fuses and if the box will lock, do it! Also rotating equipment should be jammed in a manner that will not allow it to move even under power(remove a belt,weld a brace etc.). If a system contains fluids, the supply valve should be closed, then blanked and then locked . Like other posts state, Never,ever assume you are safe until youve checked exhaustively and ensured nothing can happen......imho.....Kerry
  6. FWIW, I have found that if you (before you work) adjust the spring die so it touches the work, and the dies are parralell (sp), they will not rock or move under the hammer blows as much and the welds will last a lot longer. Also the longer you make the spring I think helps.......................Kerry
  7. Littleport22, the problem is not your welder , its your lack of knowledge about welding. You will not be able to "weld" a contact tip and an iron nipple as you describe. The metals are not compatable for fusion, you will have to use a method of cohesion such as "brazing, soldering "etc. These use disimilar metals to bond thru molecular adhesion not fusion. My advise Find the right parts, dont "mickey mouse" too much stuff or you will pay for it eventually, hopefully not with too much skin,hair or property.good luck......K
  8. KNeilson replied to Glenn's topic in Lathes
    Heres a small one, A "Boley" watchmakers lathe, an inheritance from grandad. About 1 1/2 by 4 (in). Ive used it for making carburetor jets..Kerry
  9. Boks law (Pres. of Harvard U 71-90)......"If you think education is expensive, try ignorance".
  10. A tall stack painted black will induce a fair draft if the sunlight is good, once the gases inside from the forge add more heat it should work even better. My father has such a "thermal chimney" on his greenhouse to induce airflow.....Kerry
  11. Here is one I made as per the Clifton Ralph tapes. Truck spring material, hack on one end, snap on other...Kerry

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