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Posts posted by Greenbeast
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great stuff, i think we're missing a pic of the firebrick framework you mention
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Excellent work!
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i have a powered positive air pressure respirator, not only is the air taken from behind you (belt mounted filter/fan unit), it doesn't have to fit as well as the face masks because of the pressure.
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i think they come into their own for making other stuff personally, not necessarily smithing products, but making a new forge, vise stand, tool holders, etc...
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Might have to steal the idea of rivetted legs and arms for my next one, fast track indeed!
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I appreciate the sentiment of 'colonial'
It's the period in time i had in mind when making it.
Hmm - not sure someone in England wants to hear his work is "colonial looking"... Actually, it just struck me as amusing since I've worked around quite a few Brits and am used to hearing them call someone a "Colonial" as pretty much a swear word.
I like the candle holder by the way!
thanks and yes i've heard it used as a humourously derogatory term for you lot over the water :P
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Thanks, it's a simple little thing really
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Been wanting to make, what i would call, old-fashioned, candle holder for some time now.
Finally had a good way of assembling it and the right bits of materials, and more importantly, the right reason, a christmas present for my nan.
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great video, one that makes me want to light the forge and do one now!
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I make mine out at ~180bpm i don't know if i could change the configuration for a faster hit rate.
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Excellent work
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yeah that is a good point
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Why do you need the bar on the former?,
You could just wind it around the tube and then pull the ends, easier/quicker to heat a short section than an extended open coil;
If you have a set up like Thomas suggests you could probably even do them cold after texturing the bar and allowing it to cool slowly
My questions were actually because i've used a similar method but without the guide bar on some bottle holders recently. I like the idea of a more even, repeatable curve but perhaps i just need to apply more care in my pieces.
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fair enough!
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i assume you turn it to take it off the jig?
Why the second stage of stretching it out, why not build the jig to the finish dimensions?
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Owen did you ever see a vid of the one i bought from Aly?
I'll try to get new footage up this weekend, it's got a 14kg tup (i believe based on dimensions), and seems to run as fast as Murray's above.
It's a leaf spring design, small foot print
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very nicely done
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one of the best things about this biz is being able to make our own stuff like that.
nice one
I'm currently forging up 4 window handles, catch plates, stay bars and star bar pins for my own cheap timber windows that my carpenter step dad is knocking up
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They are absolutely superb
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It seems almost incredible that someone can use a 4-5lb hammer for extended periods, i tend to use a 2lb ball pein mostly.
I wonder if i'm missing out? -
Good observation clincher breaker. I've been asked the same question many times over the years. I tell them that I am usually just laying my hammer to the side and it naturally bounces. You would have to be stiff and bear down to prevent it or hold your hammer in the air. It can also serve to help pick your hammer up.
this is exactly what i do. It took a while in coming but when i started letting the hammer bounce off the stock before a turn or for a split second thinking pause i found my arm got less tired. -
many thanks guys!
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There's a possible staircase handrail job on the horizon and i wondered if the sage members here might have some good tips for measuring up competently?
There is a 90 turn ahead of the last 2-3 steps
my 14 y.o. made a nice pice...
in Member Projects
Posted
that piece has great flow