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I Forge Iron

Greenbeast

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Posts posted by Greenbeast

  1. Ok thanks, i've bought grub screws to go through the rail and tighten against the finial

    Yeah i did wonder about going bigger and forging down to fit, i had plenty of 12mm on hand to practice with however.
    Luckily they're not an integral part of a working rail so i can tinker with improving/replacing them once the new 16mm tube is up

  2. Thanks for your comments, yes i've found the knotted wire brushes can be a little 'jumpy' and 'catchy'.

    The current rail is a bit of 15mm copper pipe (only used because we've had the windows replaced and needed curtains back up, couldn't use old rail)
    The new one will be 16x1.5mm steel tube, the finials are forged from 12mm round stock and fit perfectly inside the copper, we'll see what happens when the steel turns up!

    Anyway the point is that i've made both ends detachable

  3. I have some paving slabs spare, good idea.

    No, no walking, just aware that 'they' always say biggest anvil is best. Fair enough i'll leave it for now.

    The mat is a good idea, i've very concerned about noise nuisance at the moment as i'm in a garage at the bottom of my garden.
    Hoping to carry on as long as possible before someone complains and i have to think about moving my activity somewhere else.

    I have a twist knot wire brush for my small grinder, good tip, i'd experienced this first hand actually when trying to clean up a file for a forging project, with the cup shape i might be able to get inside the 'u' section of my brackets too...

  4. Thanks,

    Yeah i had a great time.
    I was unsure what to do about anvil orientation, the way it is now i have better access around the horn.

    Yeah it was a little painful waiting for the stock to reheat!
    I've just ordered the gas fittings to run up to the back of the burner, hopefully gonna get some iron pipe/fittings this weekend for the burner body
    Probably going to knock up a steel frame for the forge, it'll then be higher and i can stop worrying about the amount of sag in the mdf work top of the workmate!

    Also need to knock up another stand to sit the anvil+stand on as it';s about 10-12cm too low really and my back is telling me about it today.

    Also I wondered about sealing up the bottom of the anvil stand and filling it with sand to add more mass, worth it or not?

  5. Finally fired up my gas forge, only using a propane torch for now but i am currently building a proper burner.

    forge2.jpg
    forge1.jpg

    and just picked up my first anvil yesterday, got a good bargain, 1.5cwt for £150, in pretty xxxx good condition, hardly any wear at all!

    anvil.jpg

    We needed a new curtain rail, so i made these brackets and some finials, the brackets are good enough to be cleaned and painted and used but the finials were just a first go and will be re-done

    curtainbrackets.jpg

    finials.jpg


  6. Not enough info to truly answer your question, but yes, a 3/4 or 1" round bar with a 1-2" offset would be pretty strong. Most of the garage door hinges I have made have 1/2" pintles to give you an idea, and these were for large solid wood doors, very heavy.3-4" is a pretty wide hinge by the way.


    Yeah i didn't really think it through before typing out. i guess probably about 2" pintle probably


    'Barrel hinge', I would term this a strap hinge but not knowing your location, you may be describing the same item.You can make them however you want, Wheter they would be strong enough depends on thickness where strength is required and weight/size of doors you are to be hanging.If you are fixing from the outside, security could be a problem. good luck with the project

    This is the sort of thing i meant
    200px-Hinge2P3.jpg

    Security wise, while the door is shut they can't be lifted off, true?
    As long as i use smooth headed fixings it shouldn't be a problem should it?
  7. Just starting out blacksmithing but one project i might like to complete in the next few months would be iron door furniture for wooden garage doors.

    Going for barrel hinges, the strap portion doesn't seem like it'll be too difficult.

    As for the pintles i've seen some round stock wrapped in a loop which gets forge welded shut.

    Instead of this could you take length of round stock (say 3/4"-1"), leave 3-4" for the pintle itself and then flatten down and bend 90deg and then 90deg back on itself after 1-2" to form the fixing plate?
    Or would this not be strong enough?

    Thanks

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