bmazingo

Thanks

Hello Friends. It has been many years since I last  visited this forum. I am happy to see the many improvements and members. 
I have returned because my children are now showing an interest in smithing. I look forward to the many conversations I will have with you. Have a great day.

Recently finish a fillet knife to match skinner I made for a co-worker.  1095 steel blade whitetail deer antler handle with red fiber spacer and stainless fittings.

I have not talk to the man who did the actual test, but after I talked to the knife owner I think the blade was not properly secured and perhaps flexed or shifted during the test. I appreciate all the input.

Okay I made a knife to be used as a skinner (posted in the forums a little while back). It was tested for hardness(several tests with in a 1/2" area. the results were from 69-72Rc. It was my under standing that 1095 would not exceed Mid 60's as quenched let alone after a temper is drawn.. How is this possible? Is my heat treat data incorrect? The test equipment was calibrated and I believe to be accurate. 

 

The knife was heated and then quenched in vegetable oil (about 100-110F), scuffed with a scotchbrite pad and then straight into a 425F oven for about 1hr 15mins. The blade was a medium-dark straw color, darkest on the edges and the tip area. I knew it was hard but I did not think it would be that hard. 

 

Any one willing to shed some light on this?

 

 

He liked it so much he wants a matching Fillet knife.  So I get to make something I have never made.  Time to start the R&D!!! Anyone want to suggest a good beginner steel for a fillet knife???

It has been  while since I have posted anything in the forums. But I thought I might share this little skinner that  I made for a co-worker.  It is a 1095 blade with a Whitetail deer antler handle.  The sheath is just leather stitched with waxed thread then formed to the knife. I think it came out very nice. The blade quenched beautifully in some warm vegetable oil. Then I tempered it in the oven until a dark straw (about an hour or so at 425F).

Thanks guys, I will tell him. I was thinking along the same age, I hope he passes it on to one of his kids.....or sells it to me (lol). It is a sweet anvil.

It is a co-worker's anvil, belonged to his grandfather.

We cleaned it up and found the numbers 1-0-8 (120lbs I think) no other numbers or letters. The 1 is upside down.

It appears to be forge welded construction, steel plate for the face and I would suspect wrought iron for the rest. I can make out a deffinate flatter mark on one side of the body and almost all of the weld lines are visable to some extent.

No pritchell hole just the hardie hole. Has the two square holes, one under the horn one under the heel. Horn was not welded on center-line of the body. I think it is a mouse hole, but I am no expert.

I do know it is old. I seem to remeber reading something about the lack of a round hole indicating an older anvil....... I am not sure.

Share the knowledge!!!!!!

ps. could not get the uploader to work so I had to post links, sorry.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_2130.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213001.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213002.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213003.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213101.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_2132.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213102.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k200/bmazingo/P030712_213201.jpg

I may make me one of those axes with the cold roll welded to the head. If it works for him I am sure it will work for me.

Sometimes wetting the area with water will bring out more details.

I have made several knives from some sawmill bandsaw blade. The blade I used was .075" (+ or -) . I now have access to a large shear and a good supply of the stuff at my new job. Better than cutting it up with a torch to get it home.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/image/35788-pearing-knife/

OTOH 4 guys "complained" (B&M) quite a bit when we moved my 515# anvil for a meeting.......

Sounds like some one wasn't putting out.

I have lifted every anvil in my shop. Don't use it unless you can lift it! 400 pounds is a FEATHER! LOL

Stewart is right, if you work alone you should be able to move your own equipment by what ever means you can. But I would like to see the bird that dropped that 400lb feather.LOL

Stewart can I have any anvil you get that you *can't* lift? I don't need a hernia/back issues to prove I am a man. I can use my brain to figure out how to move heavy objects without damaging myself!

I have often loaded fully dressed small block car engines with only myself and another person. These are well in excess of 500lbs, proper lifting techniques are a saving grace. Then again a little "WANT-TO" helps also. I draw the line at 300lbs by myself, give or take 20lbs. Anything over that and I pay for it the next day/week.

super sweet find

wow, that adjustment would keep the jaw parallel no matter how wide they get. AWESOME!!!

Welcome to IFI. You don't need much to get started in blacksmithing just some "want to".

The SS sink is fairly thin the intense heat and countless cycles would take a toll, if it is not insulated. Matt is right about the size, if it is a standard kitchen sink. But on the up side it gives you plenty of room for insulating clay. I would base the finished bowl or fire pot on the size of those manufactured by companies such as centaurforge.

If you are going to mount it to the wall, be sure you use a non flameable material behind it.

Over all though, it sounds like a plan in the making. Nothing like having your own forge.

I would guess the 2nd anvil is a Swedish anvil. The caplet indentation under the base along with the ledges on the feet has been seen on some Swedish brands. There was a Swedish brand called 'Northern Star' that had a star stamp on the side. It is possible that Soderfors manufactured anvils for Northern Star. My Soderfors has a caplet shaped indent under the base and flats on the feet like yours. (Info from Anvils in America by Richard Postman).

Mr. Steve at Matchless Antiques said basically the same thing so we are gonna go with that. It is a North or Northern Star Anvil brand anvil. Made in sweden.

Thanks to all



(not sure how this reply got posted twice)

I would guess the 2nd anvil is a Swedish anvil. The caplet indentation under the base along with the ledges on the feet has been seen on some Swedish brands. There was a Swedish brand called 'Northern Star' that had a star stamp on the side. It is possible that Soderfors manufactured anvils for Northern Star. My Soderfors has a caplet shaped indent under the base and flats on the feet like yours. (Info from Anvils in America by Richard Postman).

Mr. Steve at Matchless Antiques said basically the same thing so we are gonna go with that. It is a North or Northern Star Anvil brand anvil. Made in sweden.

Thanks to all

I would guess the 2nd anvil is a Swedish anvil. The caplet indentation under the base along with the ledges on the feet has been seen on some Swedish brands. There was a Swedish brand called 'Northern Star' that had a star stamp on the side. It is possible that Soderfors manufactured anvils for Northern Star. My Soderfors has a caplet shaped indent under the base and flats on the feet like yours. (Info from Anvils in America by Richard Postman).

Mr. Steve at Matchless Antiques said basically the same thing so we are gonna go with that. It is a North or Northern Star Anvil brand anvil. Made in sweden.

Thanks to all

After pondering and lots of zooming in and changing colors and midtones in the photos. I think I can make out the words MADE IN SWEDEN....But it could be a trick of the mind. What do you all think????

This is my anvil for now, its home-made and it works. 3" thick AR400 top plate over mild steel. Saving for an new(er) one or just a real one.

added a horn and Added some new toys 90lb vulcan and an 83lb steel anvil(possibly swedish).

Great news Brandon! what size is the hardy hole on your anvils?

they look to be about an inch but I will measure and post the size

Hello fellow members, I am pleased to announce I finally found and bought an anvil. Actually two anvils. Though neither are anywhere near perfect, they will serve my purpose fine.

The first is a Vulcan #9. I thought it was a #5 but after I cleaned some of the paint an rust off of it I saw it was a #9. Which explained why it was so heavy.

The second anvil is more of a mystery. It is a cast steel (I think) with the markings 83Lbs and what looks to be a star shape and the word warranteed below the star (both above the 83Lbs). There is a mark on the bottom of the anvil looks like a "0" and the is a mark on one of the feet looks like a "4" or an "A". The bottom also has a real nice smoothe recess that is oval shaped.

If any one can ID the second I would appreciate it. Other than that they are mine and I am happy. Now to make some tools for them.

Hello fellow AFC members. I new to the AFC, I joined a few months ago. I have yet to attend a meeting but hope to do so soon. I live in the Butler, Alabama (Choctaw County) area. I am an at large member. Does anyone know where I can get some coal for my forge? Closer than Birmingham? Thanks.