bmazingo

Been working on the forge when I can, added a Champion 400 blower, and painted the forge body. Next will be some new legs and bracing also a hood.

Thanks, I have already burned up some tongs I was making. Coal gets hot!!

Hello All! I finally got me a coal forge. It was owned by the man who drove the school bus I rode while in elementary school. He passed away a few years back, and his wife and daughter were left with the forge along with his anvil and post leg vice. The forge and other items belonged to his father who was also the local blacksmith at a community near the river south of me.


I am not sure, but I think it is a Buffalo Forge #12 pan. There is a number cast into the underside of the forge looks like a 12. The blower was stolen or misplaced. There is a bracket attached to the bottom of the pan that would have held the blower. I believe it used to have a clinker breaker but that was replaced with a grate some time ago.

If anyone can identify this forge and/or have a lead on a blower that would work. Please post.

$50.00 is $50.00. If they are not in the way or slowing you down. Why not?

Probably stationary. I am just going to use about 4-6" of it. The end with the large opening, and then the fitting with the holes for my tyre. I am going to get it turned down or cut.

Hey guys and gals. I have been wanting to build me a coal forge to go along with my gasser. I was going to use a brake drum but I got my hands on an accumulator off of an old hydraulic system. I think it will work for the fire pot and tyre. I am gonna cut it and use the end with the big opening.

Take a look and give me your opinions.

I am not sure how big of an anvil you are referring to? But here is a link to a video that clearly shows a bridge anvil in use.

An alternative suggestion to turning down the heat would be to make it tolerate heat better. If you skinned at least that area with the 3000 degree castable it should stand up to it better.

I agree

I have been using the forge and for general forging it works great. But I have noticed that when I crank up the gas and air for welding I have a problem. The high temp mortar begins to melt in one spot. I thought at first it was from the borax, but I think now that it is more heat developing at the rear burner. Jymm Hoffman mentioned that I may have to adjust the burner tips to equalize the flow. I think he was correct.

I believe this is what is happening: At lower temps (lower air/fuel pressure) the burners are or appear to be equal. This is probably not the case bu it is hard to tell. Then when I turn up the air/fuel pressure for welding the pressure/heat increases and creates a hot spot on the floor in front of the rear burner. Over a period of time it eventually heats the mortar to a point that it melts and then melts the ceramic wool.

I think I can use some stainless steel pot scrubber (really coarse) to slow down the flow to the rear burner. I am going to remove the pipe plug from the end of my burner assembly and insert the ss wool between the two burners. This should restrict the flow to the rear burner.

If any one else has any ideas please post.

I will try to get some pictures posted.

If it rings, and a HB should, and it has good rebound, then don't worry about the crack. The seller should let you smack it with a ball peen hammer. It the hammer doesn't bounce back, then run, don't walk away from the anvil ( still get the vice! ) If it bounces back then you can deal on the price ( horn looks a little rough, but that may be the pictures. It the hammer bounces back and smacks you in the forehead, this is why you don't stand behind the hammer, when you wake up do a internal happy dance and start dealing.

I agree with Thomas, The grinder is very scary ( kind of a cool shelf piece, but I wouldn't use it!) The forge is good, but no blower. If you can get it all for 400-600 consider yourself very lucky
Anvil - guessing its about a 150lb - ~$250- $300
Post vice - again guessing on size ( looks like a 5-6" ) $200ish if mint.
Forge - with no blower ~$100
Ginder - a box of band-aids and a DIY finger re-attacher kit should come with it!

That is based off of what I've seen on e-bay lately. ( not including shipping )

Anvil rings nicely higher pitch at the horn and hardie hole. Horn is kinda mushrooomed on the point, but it could be dressed. Vice is missing spring. Grinder is just a grinder. Forge Is in decent shape minus the blower as you can see. I am gonna start at $300.00 I think that is a fair starting price

Thanks for all the advice

I am looking to get an anvil, but it has an apparent crack in it, is this bad or can it be repaired, or don't worry and just use it?

It is a Hay Budden, Not sure the weight, may be over 100lbs. The crack is in the waist about 1" above the hole inthe front.

THer are also some other pieces that may go along wiht it. I am just trying to decide what I should offer.

I was surfing the net and found my self on the Southern Blacksmith Association Conference's website http://www.sbaconference.com They have a link to BlueMoon Press http://www.bluemoonpress.org/ It appears to be good source for books about Blacksmithing and other metal working trades. Just thought I would share it.

Bonjour Pierre,
Bienvenue à IFORGEIRON.
D'après la description que vous avez donné de vos outils, je dirais que vous avez plus de la plupart des débutants.
J'espère que nous voyons des images de votre travail.
bmazingo

use Bing Translator, works good

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Hello Pierre,.
Welcome to IFORGEIRON.
The description you gave of your tools, I would say that you have more than most beginners.
I hope that we see images of your work.




"thanks moderators......I forgot to put english version"

Not the first one but the first of its kind. Not the greatest knife, but pretty good for a beginner I think. Blade was rough forged by brother from half-round file and antler handle guard and pins are brass. The fit could have been better but I am pleased.

I have a suggestion. Rather than putting holes in that large face, perhaps you can put the hardy and pritchel holes in the older anvil that is shown in the background in the attached thumbnail DSCN2483. I did something similar that and it works well. That way you can leave tools in the holes while you are working without danger of damaging yourself or your equipment.

That is a very good idea. It would be easier to cut and drill the holes in the mild steel than in the AR plate. Plus the anvil you speak of is the one I now use for my cutting and chiseling.

Thought I would share another pic of the anvil. This one is of it in use. Still have to get the hardie hole and pritchel hole added. I have alot of shaping and still have to harden the horn (some how).

very nice! what are you going to finish the handle with?

Sorry for the delay in replying to your post. I finished it with spanish oak stain and satin polyurethane. Nice wood handle. Not real fancy, but nice.

Gt the horn partially welded on, 3-3/8" 1045 shaft. It's a little small but better than nothing. Still have to finish welding and blending. I figure a good days work.

If you cant get the steel workable, and the other things mentioned have failed, then you could always stop by your local machine shop and have them pop the holes in real quick, nothing a carbide end mill couldnt handle fairly easy id say, and unless they are just covered up busy, which no shop in the country is these days, then it shouldnt cost much at all, Id guess between 10-20 bucks tops for two small holes in something as thin as a knife handle, if you have a cheap source you can actually put a carbide spotter drill, or a ball nosed endmill in a drill and do a servicable job with out a mill if you had too.

Good Ideas! I actually debated buying a straight drill(bit) used for drilling carbides. But $40 is a little steep with work being slow.

On the brite side I managed to hot punch the holes in the tang. I used a good quality punch to make my marks in the hot steel. Then I used a cheap (very cheap) punch to finish the holes. Came out good.

Bad news is my blade developed cracks either beore or when I quenched it.(sickening) I figure I over worked the steel or worked it a little too cold. I know I did not normalize it. Fortunately the blade is still in one piece and the cracks are small and in the false edge only. I hit it several times on my anvil and threw it on the cement, nothing happened. I am probably gonna finnish it with a quick handle and use it for a utility knife.

I blame it on my inexperience and lack of knowledge when it comes to working steel like this. It just reinforces the fact that learning the steel's properties is very important. I am gonna concentrate on learning the basics and stick to steel I know will survive my newbie-ism....like sawmill bandsaw blade, good for everything from spoons to knives. lol.

I haven't tried this, so I don't know if it works, but there's information on the web about putting a grinder to a piece of metal and telling what sort of metal it is by the color, length, and "branching" of the sparks. Another option would be to ask one of the metallurgists on this or another forum what type(s) of steel were commonly used for that kind of saw blade. For drill bits you could try Harbor Freight's cobalt bits, which are surprisingly cheap and work quite well. I'd use a drill press at slow speed, and maybe a bit of oil to keep the hole cool. Good luck!

It is deffinately HC steel, a center punch will not even dimple it. I have a cobalt bit gonna try the red heat anneal first if that doesn't work, I can try the hot punch method, or just wrap the handle in leather.

I don't think I can hold a dull red for 1 hour, I have never tried to run my forge that low, my or may not be possible. Hot punching may be a solution.

This is my anvil for now, its home-made and it works. 3" thick AR400 top plate over mild steel. Saving for an new(er) one or just a real one.

Hey guys, I know this has probably been posted before, but the search function just doesn't like me like me today.

I forged a blade from a saw mill canter head blade, but I cannot get it soft enough to drill. I do not know what steel it is, but I assume it may be tool steel and given the trouble I am having it maybe airhardening.

So I tried heating it past non magnetic(more heat on the area to be drilled) then put it in a bucket of vermiculite overnight. I placed two other pieces of hot steel in with it because the night time temperatures are in the 20's here. so I checked it this morning still very hard. File just slides off and can't even get a center puch to leave good dimple. I have already broke one blade forged from an unknown steel, and I was wanting this one to survive. I can change my handle material If I can't get it drilled.

Please post any ideas, I'm gonna keep reading.

Hey guys, made my first fire poker and a ash rake. They are for my mom's wood burning heater. Nothing fancy, just functional. The rake is made of re-bar and angle the poker is made of 1/2"x3/4" falt bar and 5/8" cold roll.