the iron dwarf

he aint got a lot of muscle on them arms :D

cut a tapered groove and as you hammer feed the work along it turning frequently

caotropheus that looks great

dont worry about it, here we see the same questions most days and some of the old curmudgeons get a bit cranky, they are not so bad when you get to know them.

if you have welding gear and access to a scrapyard you can make yourself a nice post anvil from a piece of rail on end with a base on it, a short piece welded at the top so the end of the short piece buts up to the flat bottom of the upright with the rounded top level with the top of the upright, now you have the top rail end for heavy hammering, the short horizontal for a gentle curve and radiused edges.

on the opposite side of the upright weld on a tooth from the bucket of an excavator for your horn, then add 2 pieces of flat to the inside bottom of the top of the upright to make a hardy hole

from the tags its in Hackney and is a railway arch, in London and a few other places a lot of the rails are  well above street level and the roads are below them, the brick archways not used for roads became small workshops and storage space with regular trains overhead every few minutes.

probably the same in some parts of some US cities

what is on the makers plate, any name or contact details?

on rail you dont have to use just the end, you can use the top, sides and bottom too

hope it is better than the forge breeze from KG Smith recently, local supplies changed in the last year and it is not as good

What were the sparks like when you used the grinder on it?

tap the face with a small hammer and mark the different areas.

the 20% to 90% rebound is an indication of how far the trouble goes

you could make a bean can forge for just a few $ to have a play with and you will have it as a back up later if you need it

I personally would be more interested in a kit than a completed item as this may make it easier to customize to suit local conditions like supply voltage and current available, 

also metric or imperial fittings, horizontal or vertical coil connections.

also a kit may be easier for those of us overseas due to how much you have to send and import duties / customs fees

I would like to know about actual measured current use as some places have limits.

here most people have standard outlets that are 13 amps at 240 volts, bigger things are possible

for industry we have 13a 240v 16a 240v 32a 240v all single phase

and 16a 415v 32a 415v at 3 phase ( there are bigger but these are what is normal )

next time you are doing a video can you put a meter on to measure the current, your last vid here had a bar heated up in about 11 seconds, the text said 120v but the vid said 240v.

some commercial ones seem to have oddly low current needs like a 240v 15kw unit that states 32 amp is needed when physics states it should be 62.5 amps.

I would not want to buy something I cannot use due to power requirements.

might I suggest that the connections for the coil are at 45 degrees, that way it is easy to make a horizontal coil or a vertical one.

yes, sorry to keep bugging you but it did seem to be dragging on a bit, hope things settle down a bit for both of you soon

it would be possible maybe.

if you ground a slot in it following the crack as deep as it goes which could be 6 inches then fill the slot with weld, if the body is cast iron it will cost a fortune in rods to do this and then afterwards you will have to heat treat the anvil again.

you could just use the rest of it

there are plans for gas forges here and experts to help you so it could be a question of just putting together a few parts and none or very little tweaking and tinkering with it to get it working right but you would learn by doing it and save a bunch of money and get a forge more in line with what you want.

im no expert on gassers, I do make solid fuel forges and lots of people like to buy something ready to go

any news yet? :ph34r:

wind a coil round a tube, something non magnetic but not bothered by a little heat, place hot item inside tube and connect the coil to a dc supply, maybe blow some air through the tube so the coil does not get to hot whilst your hammer or anvil cools

i have a friend in that area who though not a blacksmith works for a big spring maker and if he cant he will know many who can

 probably, see how hard it is with a file first

aerotite stiff nuts have 2 very fine cuts in them at an angle.

we also have flange nuts and bolts that look like they have a serrated washer as part of them.

mostly I just use nylocs

for some things I use loctite blue

Mr Powers is a Master Curmudgeon, but, once he knows you, he is full of information that will help you in your endeavors.

 

agreed, he is very good at it ;)

I put a chunk of wood in before shutting off the air, it works for quite a while

low in the fire is more oxidizing in a bottom blast

you have all the interesting creatures there, all we have here are haggis, strange things that have long legs on one side and short legs on the other for walking round hills in Scotland.

done any Drop bears for the tourists?

eddy currents are a lot easier to generate in something less conductive,

it takes a lot more power to heat copper than steel in an induction forge and the heat there is generated by inducing an eddy current in the work.

some threads here on induction in the forges section

depending on the gap between the top of the concrete and the top of the wood floor you could just cut up a section of the wood and add concrete on to to the wood floor level, would give you a good surface without buying more concrete than you need and without the extra work of breaking up the old stuff