dagr8tim

I prefer electrolysis for rust removal.

I've always loved things like that. How did you anchor it to the ground?

Friends of Wheeling Meeting
LaBelle Nail, 31st Street, South Wheeling
10:00 AM, Saturday, November 6, 2010

This Wheeling icon began production of cut nails in 1852, was the only Wheeling area nail company to survive the panic of 1857, suffered during the “great nail strike” of 1886, and until recently was one of two remaining cut nail factories in the country. Some of the original buildings still stand, and the company was in part time production until spring of this year. Cheap foreign imports have led to a continued decline, and the company has now officially stopped production. This tour offers a rare opportunity to see original machinery and other features that may soon be lost to our heritage.

Please wear close-toed shoes and warm clothing, and bring a flashlight.

I'm in awe. Very very nice pattern.

Not to hijack, but what if you went with MAPP gas instead of propane? I know it's a bit more expensive and I'm told burns hotter. Would there be any benefit?

I had to have a new valve put in one of my bigger tanks and the guys at the propane distributor had it out and in in less that 10 min. so it can't be that difficult. It looked like they strapped it to a cradle of some kind on a work bench and had wrench and used real short quick strokes to loosen and twist it on out and then put the new valve in. It was sure a lot cheaper than buying a new bigger tank with the new mandated vale on it. Installation of the new valve was a third of the price of a new tank.
When ever I find an old tank with and old style valve rather than leave it on the curb side trash pickup I take it to the propane distributor and they are more than glad to get them for refurbishing for exchange to others. You drive up with your empty tank and they hand you a full one, no waiting for them to fill your tank. The last two times I went in I gave them four old empty tanks and the guy gave me a free full tank.

all that so i can then cut them up....lol

that was interesting.

I found this online last night, but I'm at a loss how the made them.

http://www.vat19.com/dvds/railroad-spike-bottle-opener.cfm

I ran across this video on youtube and thought I'd share. I actually worked in the plant that in the video about 10 years ago.

I picked this up from scrounging around in my grand mother's garage. Not sure what I'm going to do with it, or what I can use it for.


So far I can either use it as a mounting plate for my rail road track anvil or as a base plate for a jack.

I made one pretty similar about 40 years ago and I just filled that part with dirt! Packed it in and it worked great. Only lasted a few years - then I sold it, so I can't say much more.

OBTW: I used a cast iron sink and a 5 quart cast iron bean pot! Used a car heater blower and a toy train transformer. Don't think I had 10 bucks in it.

Working from removing the galvanized coating. Could you remove it via electrolysis?

Normally when I use electrolysis for rust removal, the piece you want to restore is connected to the negative lead, and a sacrifice steel object is connected to the positive lead.

If you connected your positive lead to the galvanized item and a chunk of rusty steel to the to your negative lead. Would you be able to force the zink in the galvanized coating to migrate to the chunk of steel connected to the negative lead?

Just a thought, and I may be way off base...

I finally got my brake drum forge together and need some material to make a hearth out of.

Keep in mind, this is not a completed picture. But this is the best one I have that illustrates what I want to do.

I'm looking for something to pack around the drum that I may or may not cover in fire clay. My goal is to build a hearth around the drum to coke coal and to also server as a tool rest.

I'm considering packing sand, rocks, broken tile/dishes, or some other heat resistant material. Any suggestions.

I found this article.Dated 1886 http://wheeling.weir...bus/labelle.htm

Go visit now or see if the local historical society or photographer for the local newspaper will document the site as it sits now.

I thought the plant had been idled the past few years. It's just a stone's throw from where I grew up.

I had to run to Eastern Ohio today and brought some goodies home.


Free air compressor. It fires up but I'm still trying to figure out if it's salvageable.


Propane Tanks that I wonder if I can use to build a propane forge.


Random lawnmower bits.

I'm considering this on the stand for the brake drum forge I'm building. It's supposed to be good up to 2000 degrees. It also come in several other colors.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_FlameProof&153;-VHT-Paint_7141563-P_N3587_T%7CGRP2050____

Sounds like you had a good day and need to build a small wagon for your sojourn.

That thread is where I got some of the ideas for my forge. I found that even the car break drum I am using was a bit large when I switched from charcoal to coal. So I lined it with refractory cement to take up some space and give it a better shape. The possibility's are endless my only advice is K.I.S.S. that is what I kept in mind when I built mine.

Here is one I made the table top is a lid for a 55 gal drum the break drum is off a Ford Taurus. You don't need a large drum.

I bought a lot of smithing stuff at the South High Fleamarket in Columbus OH, Wed, Sat, Sun. when I lived in Columbus including probably 50 hammers, several post vises and even an anvil or two. Of course there is no guessing what will be there on a particular date but I would visit it 2-3 times a week for the 15 years I lived in Columbus.

Picked up some old cold chisels to use as high C stock last Wednesday just before Quad-State when I was in town visiting from New Mexico.

It's at the drive in movie place between 104 and 270 on south High St.

Fellow was there with a really good collection of un-used files too!

As I have picked up a number of both sizes for US$1 a piece at fleamarkets I don't see why you wouldn't just get both.

Surely you were not planning to overpay and buy them *new*!

Not knowing your arm I would say the 3# would be too heavy and likely to damage you of used too much too early. OTOH the 1# is awfully light---but we don't know what you plan to be making.

If I was to have only the 1 hammer I would probably go with the 2#.

This weekend I want to try a prototype forge and maybe bang on some metal. Currently my hammer collection is a 3 pound mini sledge, a 1 pound plastic dead blow hammer, a rubber mallet, and a variety of claw hammers.

Just to start out I'm considering snagging a Ball Pein hammer. The question is 16oz or 32oz? I know the short answer is both, but I'm not looking to invest to much in tools until I see if this gets off the ground. And with having a 3 pound mini sledge, I wonder if I could get by with just a 16 oz hammer?

Once I start to get the feel for it, I plan to buy more tools. I just don't want to buy a ton of stuff for a hobby I may not get fully invested in.

Ok, I eventually want to build a propane forge. But I want to start heating and hitting metal. I'm wondering if I have a solid design.

To start out could I take say an old webber kettle grill, line it with fire clay, and then lay some fire bricks on top.then have a brake drum from atleast a 1 ton truck (I'm thinking atleast Dana 60 or Dana 70). Then I could use the drum as a fire pot and the rest of the grill as a hearth.

I know I'd have to re-enforce the base of the grill because it was not designed to support that much weight, and run some form of ducting setup through the bottom.

Like I said, I'm not trying to build the end all beat all. Just something I can start heating metal in, and practicing how it flows and flattens out when it's hammered.