dagr8tim

I prefer electrolysis for rust removal.

I've always loved things like that. How did you anchor it to the ground?

Do you just show up or do you have to register? I'd love to go, and will try to go. If I do, I'll snag pics (if I can).

I'm in awe. Very very nice pattern.

Not to hijack, but what if you went with MAPP gas instead of propane? I know it's a bit more expensive and I'm told burns hotter. Would there be any benefit?

In the factory the tank was stood up and had 2 curved clamps that squeezed the tank and the actual wrench looked like a steel block with two "L"'s hanging down. There are pads on both sides of the valve that contact the flat parts of the "L" and spin it on the proper number of turns. It's less than 30 seconds in the factory to install or remove a valve.

Knowing how they go together makes them easier to cut apart. I wish they would have shown the valving tool better. I'm trying to build one from memory to allow me to safely remove the valve without cutting the collar off.

I found this online last night, but I'm at a loss how the made them. http://www.vat19.com/dvds/railroad-spike-bottle-opener.cfm

I ran across this video on youtube and thought I'd share. I actually worked in the plant that in the video about 10 years ago.

I picked this up from scrounging around in my grand mother's garage. Not sure what I'm going to do with it, or what I can use it for. So far I can either use it as a mounting plate for my rail road track anvil or as a base plate for a jack.

Thanks for the tips. I have an extra 4 speed blower motor from my Jeep. You have the wheels turning now....

Working from removing the galvanized coating. Could you remove it via electrolysis? Normally when I use electrolysis for rust removal, the piece you want to restore is connected to the negative lead, and a sacrifice steel object is connected to the positive lead. If you connected your positive lead to the galvanized item and a chunk of rusty steel to the to your negative lead. Would you be able to force the zink in the galvanized coating to migrate to the chunk of steel connected to the negative lead? Just a thought, and I may be way off base...

I finally got my brake drum forge together and need some material to make a hearth out of. Keep in mind, this is not a completed picture. But this is the best one I have that illustrates what I want to do. I'm looking for something to pack around the drum that I may or may not cover in fire clay. My goal is to build a hearth around the drum to coke coal and to also server as a tool rest. I'm considering packing sand, rocks, broken tile/dishes, or some other heat resistant material. Any suggestions.

The last I heard, the only people using cut nails were people making crafts. I had a friend who had a nice cross made out of 2 cut nails.

I'm going to be back that way in about 2 weeks. If I have time, I'll go poke around and see what I can find or atleast snap some pics.

I thought the plant had been idled the past few years. It's just a stone's throw from where I grew up.

I had to run to Eastern Ohio today and brought some goodies home. Free air compressor. It fires up but I'm still trying to figure out if it's salvageable. Propane Tanks that I wonder if I can use to build a propane forge. Random lawnmower bits.

I'm considering this on the stand for the brake drum forge I'm building. It's supposed to be good up to 2000 degrees. It also come in several other colors. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_FlameProof&153;-VHT-Paint_7141563-P_N3587_T%7CGRP2050____

Sounds like you had a good day and need to build a small wagon for your sojourn.

That's what I have to keep reminding myself. I think I have a solid design now. I can't wait to get down to building it.

I saw your forge in a thread of solid fuel forges. That thread gave me some ideas.

I know the place you're talking about. I'll have to go check it out.

I was thinking of running by HF this afternoon (I've got some 20% off coupons). The 16 oz is $3.99 and the 32 oz is $5.99. I figure for $8, it's a small price to pay.

This weekend I want to try a prototype forge and maybe bang on some metal. Currently my hammer collection is a 3 pound mini sledge, a 1 pound plastic dead blow hammer, a rubber mallet, and a variety of claw hammers. Just to start out I'm considering snagging a Ball Pein hammer. The question is 16oz or 32oz? I know the short answer is both, but I'm not looking to invest to much in tools until I see if this gets off the ground. And with having a 3 pound mini sledge, I wonder if I could get by with just a 16 oz hammer? Once I start to get the feel for it, I plan to buy more tools. I just don't want to buy a ton of stuff for a hobby I may not get fully invested in.

Ok, I eventually want to build a propane forge. But I want to start heating and hitting metal. I'm wondering if I have a solid design. To start out could I take say an old webber kettle grill, line it with fire clay, and then lay some fire bricks on top.then have a brake drum from atleast a 1 ton truck (I'm thinking atleast Dana 60 or Dana 70). Then I could use the drum as a fire pot and the rest of the grill as a hearth. I know I'd have to re-enforce the base of the grill because it was not designed to support that much weight, and run some form of ducting setup through the bottom. Like I said, I'm not trying to build the end all beat all. Just something I can start heating metal in, and practicing how it flows and flattens out when it's hammered.