macbruce
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Posts posted by macbruce
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This is a good read and a graphic reminder of how bad Hydraulic power can bite! Don't ever use sub standard or damaged fittings...just don't. Click once and read about it, click again and it's very graphic.........
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For forging you need speed (gpm) and power. Mine is a 25 ton with a 10 hp mtr and an 11gpm pump @2500psi and it pushes a 5in. cyl pdq if I open the diverter valve all the way. When the ram makes contact it doesn't draw the heat out of the piece like a slow press.......let's say I put an air/hyd unit on mine that cranked out 10000psi (not that my cyl could take it). The gpm on those is way less so it would be allot slower and when contact is made with the hot steel even with say 4x the tonnage it would suck out the forging heat before I got it to where I wanted it.....fail.....
Basicly speed (gpm)needs more HP to be effective but high pressure can be achieved easily with low hp/low gpm units. Cripes, my H press had more tonnage with the hand pump it came with than after the power conversion. But, just try forging with a hand pump unit.. :lol: ...Study the book and get it right the first time.... B)
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It's only a 2 hp unit.
There you have it. Gpm's won't matter much because of this. It's likely a high pressure 3000-3500 psi low gpm unit that would be great for a SLOW press used for pressing out bearings. Forging is out of the question.
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Judging by the flats on the feet of the anvil I'd say it's Peter Wright and a nice one at that. Here in Colorado I've seen folks ask $750 for a 'nice' 250lb PW on CL so the asking price of $1000 isn't all that out of line.....Cash talks, wave a little less under his nose........ B)
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I built a C frame for my powerful .680 round shank chipping hammer and it worked after a fashion. After I used it for awhile I decided that everything I was doing in it (and more)could be done far easier, with more control in my 100lb air hammer........The C frame now rusts in peace.
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My thoughs are you should get that forge and comence to learning how to make the tools pictured. These are very basic things and I've often heard that a cold chisel and or a center punch are amoung the first tools many BS schools/courses require a student to make. This also sets the stage for future thinking/independence when you need say a hot for your anvil or or a special form....whatever. You'll be ahead of the game if you learn to do it for yourself...... ;)
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More on the subject.....
http://www.encyclopedia-titanica.org/titanic-the-hingley-anchors.html">Titanic: The Hingley Anchors
URL corrected at request of publisher
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I'd never seen anything like those free swinging drop hammers before....... B)
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When men were men and the iron got nervous. Hard to imagine what this/these places were really like even with the film. I got tired just watching it......
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Is it me or are you having problems seeing the photos????
I saw them a few hours ago...........She's a Beauty!
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This is the kind of inginuity that can't be taught but it can be learned. Most would come here and ask ''how do I do this?'' Your little feat of ad hoc engineering is huge!
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Sand mixed with 90 psi of air.... :)
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Good story, beautiful anvil......... B)
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Nice job, love da Bird............ B)
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CREEPY.............. B)
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Good godfrey man ,don't talk about it as if it were men from ancient times! That film was made only 15 years before I was born! Those engines were built at what could now be called the height of mechanical engineering. The same period as the British Spitfire, the American P51 Mustang with the Marlin and Allison engines respectively.
OLDER THAN DIRT! :lol: .........Well, it was made 13 years before my debut and my Dad spent many thrilling and extermely tense hours behind a Merlin in both Spits and P51's and quite a few are still air worthy after 60 years. I don't think that will be said of the more modern, computer avionics fighters of today. Kill the brain/computer and it's a pile of junk.
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Sleeping Giant............Do you mind if I share this pic on FB? I think It's cool.....Doesn't look to far gone, The clutch will be the toughie. Good Luck with the restoration.......... B) -
I'm building some fire doors and my partner on this job is thinking about using this stuff.....A 2000*f clear coat for painting exaust pipes. Anybody ever tried it?
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It might be a practice piece worked at school by machinist student....Looks kinda useful or decorative......... B)
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I can't seem to locate that rascal and I'm actually busy for a change, but........All it was, was two pieces paralell about 4'' long say 3/4x1'' bar with groove between them so the corner didn't jamb/interfere with spreading the flanges and of course the V groove was 22.5* with a top counterpart (fuller) at same. I fabbed the bottom swage with spacers in between the V groove void and the bottom base plate and the top tool bevel was cut in the saw..........If I ever make another I would forge the V into a block and then the top into bottom, after which I would cut the relief groove into the bottom piece with a cutoff wheel in a grinder. The hardest part would be to make a tool steel piece at 22.5* to strike into the bottom fuller or........make the top first to form the bottom but a beefy PH or press is needed for that which you two seem to have a handle on............. B) .........Those without can do plan A
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I was refering to the use of angle iron. I still have a 22 1/2* buttom swage and top tool I made expressly to form angle iron for the purpose of making light fixture frames. After forming the corner has a nice raised apperance......
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Yep, them be anvils...........so?
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Good use of modern matierals and equiptment to create a piece that is very pleasing to the eye........... B)
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Very well done! Did you build it from KZ plans?
Hydraulic Horror
in Safety discussions
Posted
I've crafted a system or 3. BUT, I always have the hoses and fittings made by a pro........The framework is another matter but equally important.