macbruce

Yes, that's right. He said rebuilt hammer, so I assume the clutch bearing had been addressed.

Beautiful job! It looks like it should go to the Smithsonian. Nah. There is nothing more beautiful than a Beaudry fulfilled..mb

Could be a number of things, all covered above. For my hammers, it's a matter of adjusting/shimming and oiling the clutch blocks. Like Fred used to say, "More Oil"

Like Phil said, add a brake! End of problem. Something I've been meaning to do to mine for a long time.

Sounds like the clutch is set up a bit tight... you say its not the linkage but are you sure the fork is allowing full free movement? Did he pour a new clutch bearing? if so maybe he it needs faced a bit more to allow for full disengagement? What kind of clutch lining is it? is it steel on steel, steel on leather, steel on wood? Has it been oiled well?

Nah tungsten is too brittle, unless you are looking to actually forge in the fire itself

I would think that the 2.5" heavy walled tube with a thick cap welded on would be sufficient. Vee up a snug fitting plug into the end of the tube,weld it up, then cap it off. Don't know if you would really gain anything by adding the scrap, and lead to fill the rest up. It isn't like it is one solid piece. The lead, and steel act very different in how they react to harmonics.

As I understand it, rebound affects the hammering by providing a solid backup to the blow. If the anvil is too soft it absorbs the blow instead of pushing back. Kind of like hitting something on a steel block as opposed to a lead block. The steel will give productive hammering time. Hence I would concentrate on an anvil face that was sufficiently thick enough, and tough enough as to not flex under the hammer blows instead of worrying about filling the whole thing up. A solid 6" on top of that heavy tube should do it.

Do you have any mining operations in your area? They may have some large scrap bars available from old equipment in the form of axles, shafts, or hydraulic cylinders. A rail yard maintenance facility may also yield a suitable anvil.

Thanks for the many responses. I'll try to address as many as I can here. The hammer is to be an inverted cylinder type,80lb.....I'm trying to reach for but probably won't reach a 10:1 tup to anvil ratio, which I believe can be fudged on, and we don't need to kick that one around again please........As far as lead shrinkage, has anyone ever poured lead into a cylinder (no draft) and tried to get it out, you can't. The shrinkage occurs mainly at the top.......I wish I could find .30 to.40 cent a lb big barstock here, I've looked hard but come up empty........I'm going to a tire shop (tire weights)that I can get cheap......As far as dealing with molten lead, take the necessary precautions and bida bing. I've been screwing with lead for 30 yrs and am only mildly demented!.....Rebound? that is a good one, I do plan to add steel to the mix and there is allot of steel in the tube, base, end cap,dies. would that be totally nixed as far as rebound? Hot steel doesn't have any rebound near as I can tell. I NEVER have but have seen others miss a blow and have the hammer fly into their face, some anvils don't have that much pop, are they worthless?.....Is forging iron on a steel anvil with a pb filled hammer the same as forging iron with a steel hammer on a pb filled anvil? I still haven't decided, but it will require an anvil, maybe tungsten!....................Happy holidays.......Bruce Macmillan

75-80lb, air hammer, I don't like tubing for the tup. This one has a 1 1/2 x 4 1018 cr ram.....mb

The problem with poured lead is that it will shrink as it cools and not remain firmly attached as a solid mass.

Has anyone out there ever used molten lead within, say a heavy walled tube to provide anvil mass for a power hammer?
I'm toying with the idea for a machine I'm constructing. It seems plausible. Due to the shortage of large, used steel bar stock for an anvil I'm looking outside the box, and I'm not going to Ryerson to get it $$$..???....mb

Here,s a couple of guys that have bs classes. Craig May at dragonforgeltd.com (pine junction co), and David Norrie at davidnorrie.com (berthoud co)..........good luck....mb

The only other comment I would like to add is, have you considered making a feather blank of thin, flattened
angle iron (ready made raised groove).It works well with leaves, so why not feathers.......just a thought...mb

Brilliant innovation! I tried to make feathers by hammering blank feathers into a bottom die with a central groove
and angled grooves out from that. They sucked. You really nailed it.............mb

Really nice sprout. Great to see something rather different. Forged? Wow you have a lot of attention to detail. Any problems forging the bronze? Was it solid stock and plate or Brass tubing from the beginning.

I agree with everyone else, that is beautiful and can you please show some work in progress of tooling pics. Truly inspirational.
Rob

You must have a lot of time to spare. How many hours to make this masterpiece?
I reckon you'd find it difficult to let it go (at any price). Everything looks forge welded. Care to share your texturing technique?

You must have a lot of time to spare. How many hours to make this masterpiece?
I reckon you'd find it difficult to let it go (at any price). Everything looks forge welded. Care to share your texturing technique?

p

really love that macbruce - is any of it cast or all forged? i think its beautiful thanks for posting !

bronze sprout sculpture,9"x9"........

The first one took six months,...this one took 1 1/2 hours the incomplete ones can take as little as 45 mins

Nice!your dad should be tickled to death!!

Very nice piece. I like it.

Tree has 120+- forged leaves,trunk was made from 3" square, base 1/2 plate in layers,plumb brown and sculpt nouveau finishes. 130 hrs, 125lbs