2Tim215

That is an option that I have some African friends looking into - there were a few places that sold to the local townships but they have closed doors. Appreciate the help. Where in SA were you.

Haven't ever heard of one. Will research that option

The trip alone will cost me around 150 pounds and municipal bylaws won't allow me to keep more than 500 kgs let alone 3 tonnes. I've done the math - not economical.

Hi I am in South Africa and there are very few blacksmiths here. Those that have web pages are all over 800-1000 kms from me. Have tried all avenues with the mines and coal terminal - it's against corporate company policy and the only way would be to do it under the table and I am not willing to go that route. The closest supplier is 300 kms away and that makes it very uneconomical. Trust me - if I could get my hands on coal again I would only use coal, but I moved to the coast and it's too hot here for anyone to justify selling it locally. Have just been given 180 ltrs of used veg oil and have a constant supply of that, so when my Hago nozzle arrives I will be looking at re modding the forge. I think that my current setup is not allowing enough fuel through to get optimum heat output. But like all blacksmiths I am used to having to make a plan and building my own tools - so back to the drawing board. Will possibly try the clam shell as an option for a extra forge though. Have four now so one more can't hurt.

I often switch hands after my wife noticed I was starting to look a little lopsided - practice is the only way, but with a lighter hammer.

A vice I have never seen the like of before, sold it to a friend - regret it now. Biggest I have ever seen or had the misfortune to have to manhandle alone. Oh- I paid R50-00 for it - about $6

I am not an industrial smith, but do artist work - sculptures, furniture, etc. So by large and unusual I mean your typical scroll work and shapes that do not easily fit into your typical square or round forge. Am busy with a variable brick oil forge that is managing but not optimal. http://www.sablade.com/forums/showthread.php?1033-Variable-oil-forge You will have to register for free to view pics.

Approaching!! That's huge!!

I know. I have one of the largest coal terminals in the world in my town - they won't supply! 2 coal mines within 100km's - they won't supply less than 250000 tons for a minimum order - very frustrating. Short of hijacking the coal trucks on there way to the terminal there is no way to buy coal here.

Thanks guys for the replies. Did some research on the chip forge and there is not much out there and most of it negative. How do you all do large and weird objects in gas or do you all have coal and gas forges? I have always used coal for smith work and gas for blades. Now that I have no coal I have tried various gas forge designs and am busy with oil forges. So far the best has been a ribbon burner forge with gas but like I said - gas is expensive.

Have a friend that is building one based on the little giant across the green belt from me. He is going to use a i.5 KW 220 V VSD with a 3 phase motor to control the hits and speed. Having built two myself I can only say I am impressed with his hammer so far, especially the VSD idea. His will only be for Damascus. I use a press these days - hammer too noisy for the neighbors.

I have been struggling to get an economical forge going for large and unusual shaped work. Gas here is too expensive, coal is unavailable and I have just mastered the oil forge but still am not happy. Too build an oil (or gas) forge that retains heat yet has various options for open sides without losing the heat or using vast amounts of fuel to get hot, stay hot and not lose heat when opening the sides for funny shapes is proving impossible. But I have had a brain fart that I want opinions on. What if I build a "Coaless" coal forge? I like coal forges. You can forge anything, any shape and any size in a coal forge.I miss not having coal. What if I build the standard coal forge with a side entry turee that is in actual fact an oil burner and the "coal" is broken up hard and soft fire brick? The flame should heat up this crushed castable in the same way coal would and this would allow me to forge any shape or size. Thoughts please!!

Thanks Mark - gonna have a good look at it now.

Thanks Matt for that Vid - had the one showing the burner working but not this one. My second burner is based on his one but now that I see he uses a siphon nozzle will have to put some money together and order it from the states - with the exchange rate that will have to wait a while. Appreciate the help.

Have changed the burner slightly now for a less complicated venturi system and with good results. Same oil/air inlet system though. After 10-15 minutes at red heat which is what I want for forging The setup The new burner setup It seems to work better now, though the forge is rather large and could do with possibly a larger burner or more. Will possibly consider a siphon burner if I can get an atomizer here in SA. Thanks for the input

After 10 minutes still not up to heat. I can't have the air open to full or it blows the flame out even if I add more fuel. There is a point where I have to stop adding fuel or it floods this is where the flame burns nicely with the right amt of air. The compressed air vaporizing the oil is always at around 3PSI - so maybe it takes longer than gas to get up to heat. With gas on the same burner I have it up to heat in around 5-10 minuets.

Some more pics with it burning

Thanks guys for the input, makes a bit more sense now. I did have a 2" gate valve and pipe for the air flow but changed it - will change it all back to 2". The forge is designed so that I can close off from any side and use it for odd shaped art work and sculptures thus changing the dimensions to suit my needs. The fuel and air nozzle is based on the babbington design with oil dripping down on the nozzle and compressed air vaporizing the oil. The air has a .8 mm hole and the oil has a 1mm hole. I can light her up with out having to preheat with gas with the air regulated at 3 PSI. I think my problem is that I was trying to get the flame to run like a gas burner. Today I will change it all back to the 2" ftgs and see what happens. The blower is a centrifugal paddle fan that pushes out about 250 cfm. Will let you all know tonight how it all works out.

Sorry, the gas in the pic is actually the oil inlet. Testing the forge I used about a l ltr of oil for 2-3 hrs burning. Oil is veg diluted with diesel 60% oil and 40 % diesel.

Here are some pics. The forge has to be this size and shape for the work I do.

It's bigger than your average knife forge. The system works but I am not used to oil so can't determine what a good flame is. I have noticed that to much oil cools it down and too little doesn't do much. Does nozzle size make a difference? I was using a 1.5 inch and it got to red heat, but reduced down to a 1 inch and now it doesn't get so hot. Is bigger flame better? I have noticed that a big flame smokes but a smaller one doesn't. When I add air it burns better, but too much it blows it out - will take picks and post tomorrow.

Hi Have just built my oil forge but I am having some issues.I can't seem to get up to forging temp. I am using compressed air with oil dripping to vaporize and although I get good flame it is yellow and not very hot, no amount of tweaking helps. I am running the air through a regulator at about 3-5 psi and have it rigged with a blower for more air. With gas the forge gets up to welding heat in no time. Help!!!

Tim

WOW!!!

Sorry, are we talking full tang or hidden tang. Full tangs don't have guards - have bolsters that are pinned on. Mod note: this is incorrect also, Please, in the future try to separate your personal preferences from reality before posting.