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oakwoodforge

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Posts posted by oakwoodforge

    New Atthis

    in Knife Making

    Posted

    Vern, you are 25 min away from my shop, ( I'm just south of Fairfield ) shoot me a pm, possibly I can help get you pointed in the right direction. I teach a few small classes from time to time.

    Jens

    Chisel and Punches keep breaking in half.

    in Slitters, Punches, Drifts, etc

    Posted

    Sounds like you could have a combination of enlarged grain size and stress as well as some inconsistencies in your heat treating methods .

    First off what steel are you using ?

    What are you quenching in ? Water , brine, peanut oil ?

    And why are you re - heating to a red heat after quenching ? after quenching you should temper at say 500 F NOT 1500 F for most simple carbon steel tools.

    How about a little more info ...

    Jens

    Another question.. Water polishing stones?

    in Finish and Polish for Knives

    Posted

    Both The Japan Woodworker Catalog - Bench Stones and woodcraft.com Water Stone Sharpening Kit - Woodcraft.com have good water stones, I'd start polishing with a 220 grit, A 400 grit , a 600-800 grit and a 1500 grit. Synthetic stones are easier to deal with than expensive natural stones.
    Nothing beats good technique and good equipment, but you may find that starting with good Wed/dry sand paper ( 3-M not that bargain garbage ) with a good flat rigid steel backing and lots of lube (wd-40 Works for me) Will get you there with less effort and le$$ ca$h. Cheap stones are $20- $30 each - that Buys a ton of wet/ dry sand paper and WD 40 ...

    your call - I use both


    Skal !


    Jens

    Heat Treating 1095 carbon steel

    in Heat Treating, general discussion

    Posted

    Katsumoto,
    I've had good luck creating hamon lines in 1095 using a hybrid method. Coat with clay as normal, I heat to mid/upper critical- a shade brighter than non magnetic, and quench in 120 degree canola oil ( rape seed oil ) , Temper - well that depends on the size of the blade and application 375f - 475 f . One thing to keep in mind is the sori or curvature caused by quenching is backwards in the oil , instead of curving up it curves down. I've been experimenting more with water quenching , but still crash allot of blades , with a Oil quench I have better than 90% success rate, with water it's , 40 % if I'm LUCKY !

    Thomas has it quite right , if you want to water quench start with some 1050 or 1065 or be prepared for lots of warps and cracks ...

    Best of Luck !
    Jens

    Outdoors, Iron finish

    in Shop Tips n' Tricks

    Posted

    For a clear wet look finish on forged iron work exposed to salt air / bad weather - I Highly recommend POR -15 's GLISTEN PC its awesome stuff. Kind of a pain because it takes a few days to cure but it wont get milky or yellow and it'll last and last and last and last ...

    Check it out here : Glisten PC


    Hope this helps


    Jens

    Mokume de-laminating

    in Mokume Gane

    Posted

    Jim, Move away from the coins and go on to copper and silver alloy sheets and you will have less de-lamination probs. You should also hard silver solder ( the High temp stuff ) the edges of your mokume billet prior to patterning and drawing out. Mokume doesn't like big changes in shape so if you need a piece 2"x2 " x 1/4 " (finished size ) for a project, start with a stack 2 "x 2 " x 3/8 "

    good Luck and happy hammering

    Jens

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