don't tread on me

These are a pear of tong that I made out of RR spikes, I still need to weld on the handles but I like thim a lot. This coal on ebay is it any good.My link

These are a pear of tongs that I started yesterday and now I just need to weld on the handles, they are made from RR spikes. These are my thired pear.

I like that first rack best, but all of them are probly beter than I could do so good job.

I recently purchased this forge and haven't seen one like it posted in this forum. Does anyone know what type, manufacturer etc. that this might be? I purchased it because I needed something larger than my rivet forge. I also don't know exactly how this mechanism works with regard to running the fan. I'm hoping to find a photo of one that is working or at least an old add or patent. Any help or direction on where to look would be appreciated.

Thanks, Jim

That other forge isn't wethless anymore I got some cast iron welding rod and now I think it will stay together.

Me I got started with a bonfire, a pear of lethermen pliers, a hammer, and a slabe of conreat at the age of 13. PS. this topic is to enceredeg all of you who are just starting that a lot of us started small.

Go for it, I started with a bonfire and a slabe of concreat.

Look at the ones that My link sells I think they are perty good. It looks real good.

I am facing a problem with my forging. Right now I am having issues trying to work with 1" or thicker metal and often high carbon steel in trying to make anvil tools. I cant afford to buy a power hammer and even if I could I am not sure my neighbors will be happy to see it. I am worried one of the jerks will call the cops or something if I used it after 9:00 pm which is often when I get a chance to do some smithing. I would like to get a fly press but then I dont know what size and 2 grand is only going to be in the budget if I get a big bonus from work this year or a big tax refund. So there you have it, I want to work with heavy metal billets, hardy shafts and so on by hand.

Right now the best I can do is use a 4# hammer and slam the crap out of it in 50 heats and that is getting tedious. Even Swaging the shafts through the anvil is becoming tiresome and when working billets of pattern welded steel, drawing them back out is the definition of unfun. Furthermore, I like to work with old jackhammer bits to make tools because those bits are great steel and thicker than coil springs but that steel is murder to move by hand, often fishmouths when I am trying to make hardie shafts.

So I am asking for suggestions on how to do this better without fishmouthing everything or blowing a fortune that i dont posess right now. (and if I had a grand I would probably buy an ozark pattern 400# anvil anyway). Anyway. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Lets say the budget is 500$ and under.

I used a socket to make the pumal on a sword I made.

hungery tolet.

talk to Galgatha Forge and Anvil, he is a gunsmith he would probly help you.

I have looked at diferent ideas and I hd a good idea, I think. Us the disk from a farmers disk plow and you could make a forge like a riveter forge.

Don't say that the other forge is worthless because it has a crack thru it. My first rivet forge was completely cracked from the tuyere all the way out one side and had about an eighth inch gap in the crack. I used that forge for over 5 yrs before upgrading to a better one. It worked fine. The crack was just cosmetic and did not affect the use that it was intended for. Most of the forges that are cracked like that have had water poured into them to put out the fire while the forge was hot. Sad, but that's just the way it goes. Someone may be very happy to take that "worthless" forge off your hands just to get a starter forge for themself. Don't pitch it. My 2cents.

A friend of mine gave me this forge and another one just like it. The other one is werthless becase of a big crack running threw it but this one is still good. I put a shovol handle as the pump handle and am going to put a lether belt on it when I get one. It has a small crack as you can see but someone bolted a 1\4 in steel plate over it to hold it together. I am going to change the blower to another one that I have becase this one only has 3 good blades. Other than that it is perty good and will work fine.

Good finds, but like thay sead don't beat on that vice.

I don't know what kind it is but it looks good to me. What did you pay for it?

I sold this knife to a friend in Oklahoma I asked $20.00 and he sent me $50.00.

I don't know that I have evar seen WI before could someone post some pics of WI and mild steel side by side please.

My dad is a electrishon here in Nebraska some of the codes might be different where you are but I will see what he seas later on when he gets home.

They have a 50lb Little Giant trip hammer and some other stuff. Here is the link for you guys in KS.My link

thanks for the tips guys. where would i go about finding this insulation and what is it called? i did some searching online but everything i saw was very expensive.perhaps you guys know of a place that sells it

Call it the clencker bracker.

I have enough experence so that I am planing to do there secant class not there first class.

Are the blacksmith classes at the Stuhr Museum werth paying for?