poleframer

I'd read somewhere (I could be wrong) that pumps are rated at 1200 rpm, you may be getting more than 5 gpm at 1750, might be worth checking the pumps actual displacement too.

Since you are designing, and building from scratch mostly, why not incorporate some ironworker type aspects to your plans? A couple stout levers (perhaps removable) could increase pressure at some points, speed in others, maybe a shear?

I dont see many old ones around these parts, so back to the ford pile I went. Turned a F350 2wd int a 4x4, the one of the twin I beam parts looked close enough for a post, had a cast steel trailer linkage to make the jaws from, I'm thinking of just pouring babbit for the screw. The front jaw is on a half leaf spring that will set on a pivot, and attach to the other half pushing up the back, if that makes sense. I'll post another pic when I get back to it.

Thanks for the compliments!
I like the control, that worked well, put the secone spring back on, but cut it back, it was a bit too "whippy" at higher speeds.

another
http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/?action=view&current=hammering2.mp4

Hmm, took some video today, see if this link works, or do I need to open a youtube account?
http://s719.photobucket.com/albums/ww194/LogDork/?action=view&current=hammervalve.mp4

Ok, a little further along. The hydraulic gear valve kept spittin seals under the starting torque, so I got a used rotary hyd motor, spun at just 200 RPM full out, so I mounted it straight to the tie rod.
Made a linkage from a foot pedal to the flow control valve, control is pretty smooth, I can 1 hit fairly easily, or get going.
Tried 2 leaf springs, but it was too stiff, not enough of the "whip" motion, these are 3" wide springs.
Whapps pretty good, I'll get a friend to video it when I can.

I'm southwest of Grants Pass, out of a little town called Cave Junction. Making a living? Whats that?
I've been doing FS and BLM contracts for the last 22 years, logwork, and my shop are more of a side thing, I usually go a ways to make money.
Nice thing about this location is being able to be on the coast in an hour, or into Grants Pass/Medford in reasonable time.
Have you given Roseburg a once over? Nice area, comfortable climate.

Umm, is the Rusty hammer a helve hammer? In another thread I wrote about being off-grid, and my electric system only goes so far. When I had accumulated a Parks 30" band saw, and a sebastian engine lathe, I needed some more umphh, so I added a hydraulic pump to the 14 hp backup diesel gen engine, and run a number of tools off that, plumbed in my shop. Nice thing with hudraulic motors is the smooth variable speed with flow control valves.
But back to subject, most of this stuff is from what presents itself for my use
I just got into having a forge as part of the shop scene, and saw that a hammer would go well with the H press I made, had most of the stuff was laying around to make this.

Well, a hammer in the making. I made the press last winter, has a 4" cylinder that moves fairly fast with the hydraulic system. I decided to do a rusty based hammer on it, had most of the parts around, picked up another flow control valve that will be used for speed control of the hydraulic motor instead of a tensioner pulley. The 2x bar for the hammer is solid, the anvil weighs about 250 lbs. Recognize the ford parts?

Here's my Sebastian,15" swing, 8'bed. I got it for "the right price". Also in that deal I got an old versamil, actually a master lathe converter. Since the bed was so long, I made a milling station at the right end of it. I made a raise/lower mechanism out of the bottom section of a big cross slide vise, and 2 hyd. rams, so I can raise and lower the xy table. It will either mount upright, as in this pic, or mount on the post attached to the back of the lathe and raise and lower, or go in and out.
Both the lathe and the milling head are run off my hydraulic system, powered by a 12hp kubota outside. The flow control valves give me 0-2500 rpm on the mill, and running on the biggest step pulley on the lathe 0-2000rpm, but I can move the motor for faster speed, or engage the back gears for enough torque to get in a lot of trouble.
I've cut threads for a backplate (2-1/8"x 8tpi) for the 3 jaw, but other than that havn't gotten into the lead screw, or power cross feed yet.
The mill will also mount on the lathe carriage, offering some options there.

Thankyou nakedanvil, I like to at least know the names of my tools!

The markings are on the head, true temper, and a 5. I like it, I can get a good smack into a tight spot.

When my elderly neighbor passed a few years back I was given some of his tools, including this hammer. It's marked true temper, and 5 (lb). Havnt seen one like it before, I'd think it would be for lining up holes in steel beam construction.

Hi Siggi, yer grammer is just fine. I just got into forge work too, drawn to pounding hot steel, I suppose, eh.This is a pretty good crowd here, I'll say.
Russell

Total noob here, with a cracked anvil, but here's what I came up with. I'd cut an oak down this spring, took a cut off the bottom for the block, and squared it up. Being more of a chainsaw guy, with leanings to old truck parts, I cut off a 10" piece of leaf spring, and torched holes in the ends, then plunge cut through the middle of the block for the spring, and V notched the block for a loop of chain. I welded 2 bolts to opposite sides of the loop. I wrapped the loop around the anvil base, so the bolts hung down through the spring holes, and I can tighten it down.

Getting in a little hammer time, the piece is delaminated, goes from a "ping ping" to a "tok tok" sound as soon as I get on the other side of the crack, towards the horn. It's the weld around the edge that's holding it on. Of course the crack in the face is right where ya want to hammer.
I don't have a mig, just the miller genset (CC, 250AC, 200DC), and a little gasless wirefeed.
So it's pretty much a matter of rod choice, and treatment I want to figure out, before I get into it. I think a little grinding, and a smack from the side would knock the piece off.
So, sounds like when I tackle it, I should prep the surface, put it in the stove for a while, get it up to 400, lay a pad of 7018, then build up to flush with the rest of the face with ? rod.
Thanks for the replies, Russell

Sounds interesting, Spikeknife, did you do the welding? I'm curious about the rod size and amperage used. Seems like I'd want to bring it up to some temp, 400 or so. HF seems the best alternative, I read a little about the dissimilar electrodes, makes sense. I could hammer around it, but repair will be on my mind all the time. I suppose if I had been using it,broke it, and was living with it (brings my old trucks to mind) I might be more inclined to put off unnecessary repairs. No hurry, I enjoy the learning to anything.
Russell

Hey Mike, good to hear from ya. Bet you know the guy that I met from when I rebuilt the hydraulic pump for the yanmar. Cant remember his name right off, but he's in that big rock house, his dad and grandpa were machinists. PTL rings a bell. Did one better than a repair for me, taught me how to do it. What a chimney! Quite the shop too.
In the 20 some years of woodswork, I've gotten to work a fair bit in all the forests in oregon, lots of stuff out in the winema, fremont, I liked working the malheur, and ochoco's too, out on the east side, where a guy can walk upright like a human being. Just dont get turned around in that doghair lodgepole :)

Heya Bob, I never thought of a hyd chainsaw, my stable of saws is pretty healthy, on up to the 090 , I have a woodsplitter, just a ram on an I-Beam I run off the tractor, always wondered if some backwoods equipment work would have me plugging in my versamil, and machining on site, with a portable power supply like that, lots of possibilities exist. At 3' wide, I can get into some tight spots with it, I drive it into my shop, and between workbenches for my heavy lifting. I'm really liking the way hydraulic motors perform, and the little kubota runs on about half fuel that my welder runs on, about a quart an hour, as opposed to a half gallon.
Hey Neil, tapping into a system isn't hard, if you don't already have an aux. port probably wouldn't be hard to put one in, anyone who works on tractor hydraulics should be able to fix you up, or see if there's a way to add a valve to the bank you have now. My nephew is a design engineer at the Hyster R&D shop, across the river in Troutdale. He does the controls, and battery systems for their electric fork trucks. If ya take a couple pics of it, and how it's plumbed, I might have an idea or two. I've had good luck scrounging and buying used hydraulic parts, I've spent way more getting hoses made than any other component. I could see a hyd. hose end clamp for the press might be real handy.
Russell

Thanks for the welcome, Frosty! Hey, chyanca.. how bout chy, my memory dosent even streach that far these days, haha. You might check out machinebuilders.net, it's the place for projects like your bolens, they're updating their site software now,so give it a while to join, thing the signup is disabled for a bit, but I think you'd find some ideas there.
I hear ya on the hydraulics, I couldnt even say what GPM I'm running at, just pressure, think I need to increase lines to the bandsaw, bit of friction loss going on, it goes a lot faster plugged into my tractor.
Here's some more shots of the shop, for yer amusement. Got some more brackets to fab up, not much of a professional shop, but when I put some money in my wallet, just makes my grin a little wider. Eh, if I can make enough to spend a few months a year holed up in there, works for me.

Well, what do you think? The front third of the faceplate is coming off, its hollow under the broken section, but solid from there back to the hardy hole. Options are to use it while I look for another, or try to repair it. Looks like somebody had tried to weld around it at some point in the past. Could get a big fire going, and try to re-forge weld it back in place, or toss the broken piece, heat the body up and use hardfacing or some other rod to build it back up and grind a new surface. ???
Thanks, Russell

Hi, my name is Russell. Things of steel have held my attention more than anything else in my life. Whew. There it is...

And howdy Jimmy, and Ken. Ya can call me pole, PF, or Russell, just not...nevermind. Ken, I drove a 59 Ford F100 (first year of stock 4x ford) to Sussex area of New Jersey from here in the winter to do construction, and a couple other runs out that way, DONT TEMPT ME :P

Hi Fe-Wood, it'd be interesting to discuss power systems. This happened along with some other power upgrades, should be 24v by now, but so it goes.
I' been working with hydraulics for a few years, on my tractor, and being around logging equipment. If you think about how a typical shovel operator uses that machine, it's amazing that a high pressure system holds together as well as they do. I figured if I use the same type steel lines, and fittings, should be pretty safe in a static enviroment, and except for day one, the only fluid on the floor has been changing fittings.
Day one, however, got a bit exciting when I fired it up, I'd plumbed backwards, and got a startle when the filter blew off the reservoir, spraying the wall with oil.
Got that straightened out, but even then I keep the pressure down around 1500. I did all the return lines in 3/4" black iron pipe.
I love the flow control valves, I can turn the lathe at about 2 rpm, with enough torque to really break things. I'm thinking with the back gear enguaged, I could do some interesting twisting, with the 8' bed available.
I'm on a slow going learning curve with the lathe, other than turning parts, I've only set up to cut threads for some backing plates, and havnt gotten into power feed on it at all. If ya want a pic of anything there, just point.
Over at the press is a good place for the "master" valve bank, where I also located the 12v switch that activates the 12v clutch on the hyd. pump, start and stop hyd. pressure right there. I probably run the kubota around 1800-2000, things get moving fast enough for me at that, and to be honest, I havn't been gutsy enough to get anything moving that fast in the lathe.
I noticed some folks in the press section have electric driven pumps going on, know of anyone else doing something on a small scale like this?
Even tho I started long ago (to me anyway) this is really just my 3d winter in the shop, with amenities like walls, and doors.