LouieIV

So in addition to the questions above I'm also concerned about the angle of the burner(s) because I want to try to avoid hot spots as much as possible. I don't have a welder, so I'm using locknuts to attach the burner holder. If I angle the burner as much as possible in the holder this is what I get. Let me know what you think. Thanks, LouieIV

So I'm getting ready to cut the holes for 2 burners (one will be plugged until I get a 2nd burner), I was going to put them evenly off center. To explain I found the center of the interior of the forge (front to back) then split the distance front and for each burner hole. When i made the markings the front burner seemed kinda close to the front of the forge. So I started looking at pics of dual burner forges. Some of them appear to bias the burners toward the center. Each burner is still equal distance from the center (front to back) of the forge, but not splitting the distance between center and front/back rather slightly closer to center than front or back. Is this making any sense?? Example: Back wall to front wall is 10 in. Center of the forge is 5 in. from either wall. So if everything was equal center of each burner would be 2.5 in off center. With me so far (not sure I am) This just seems like the front burner is too close to the front to me. So some pics look like the burners are biased towards center. Example: Same forge as above but put burners at 2 in off center. This of course would mean they are at 3 in. from the front and back walls. Would this be a better design? Clear as mud?? If you made it through all this and can make sense of my ramblings, I would much appreciate your advice and opinions. Thanks, LouieIV PS I would like to eventually try my hand a forging knives, and thought it might affect placement.

Thanks for the tips. I got the rest of my stuff in today. My wife is out of town until Saturday though and I have the kids. I have to wait until she gets back cause I don't want the kids around the inswool until I get it coated with the Satanite. -LouieIV

I didn't think the blanket need anything before coating, but wanted to make sure since this is my first time and all . -LouieIV

Real nice looking knife. I like it. -LouieIV

Larry Zoeller sells individual parts and a complete hook up kit with everything you need also. Sounds like I'm just a step or so ahead of you. I just finished ordering all my stuff for my forge a couple weeks ago. I'm still waiting for a couple things to get here. -LouieIV

I've been preparing to build my first forge for awhile now. The last of the items needed are supposed to be here on the 9th. The design is the Simple Gas Forge on Larry Zoeller's web page. I'm going to be lining it with Inswool (very similar to Kaowool), coating it with Satanite, then ITC-100. I was wondering if the Inswool needs to be fired/cured or anything of the sort before lining it with Satanite? I'm starting out with a single burner(hobby money is at a minimum), but I'm pretty sure I'd like to be able to forge weld eventually, so would like to add a second burner down the road. If I plan for 2 burners should I put my single burner in the front or back? I'm thinking back. Thanks, LouieIV

I know how to seal/seal check the respirator, but as far as a certified fit test that's a bit more in depth than I'm prepared to do. I am fit and have used respirators before, thanks for the heads up though. I'm thinking I will shave. I just keep a short goatee any way, so growing it back will be quick and easy . Thanks, LouieIV

First of all thanks for all the responses. ptree yours was especially informative. Both Inswool and Kaowool fall under what is called RCF (Refractory Ceramic Fibers) So from what I've read someone that is not working with it on a regular basis, like most of us assuming you seal it with some sort of coating, are at pretty low risk. Just like with most 'dangerous substances like asbestos, lead, radiation, etc... it is exposure to very large amounts and/or long term exposure that causes problems. With that being said, when I'm thinking and not being stupid I tend to err on the side of safety . The MSDS recommendations are based off 8hr work days and the particle count in the air. I'm guessing most of us don't have a particle counter at home. I found this recommendation chart My link. I believe this is based off an 8hr work day. This is from Canada and was the most straight forward recommendations I found. The least amount of recommended protection I saw was goggles, gloves and an N95 rated mask, I think this was on an Australian MSDS (not sure though). I will be using goggles, latex gloves, disposable coveralls, and a P100 respirator. I will be doing it outside, since I don't have HEPA filtration in my garage. Like I said I tend to err on the side of safety. Disclaimer: I'm no expert, please do your own research when determining how much or little and what PPE to use. -LouieIV

I will have it coated in satanite and ITC-100. I'm mainly worried about the pre-finished state while I'm handling it and laying it in. I will be using Inswool HP Ceramic Fiber blanket. I assume they are very similar, but not sure about that. LouieIV P.S. I realize I should of put this in the safety section. If a moderator wants to move it that's fine by me.

Where do the fibers from the ceramic blanket insulation's fall as far as how hazardous they are? Are they more like fiberglass or asbestos? Just trying to figure out what type of respirator I should get. Thanks, LouieIV

That great. Happy Birthday! LouieIV :D

I don't know if I'll be doing forge welding or not. From what I've read if you use ITC-100 then there should be no problem forge welding with the 2400 deg. stuff. Maybe a better way to phrase my question would be; Does the 2700 deg Inswool have any better insulating properties than the 2400 deg. Inswool? Or is it just more temp resistant? Thanks, -LouieIV

My link Check out Ellis Custom Knifeworks, they have a little how to in thier satanite FAQ section. -LouieIV

Perhaps I'm wrong, but wouldn't that make it more efficient for a long session of forging, because doesn't it hold the temp better once it gets up to heat? So that when you use an idler valve your forge stays hotter while idling. I'm brand new to this and don't even have a forge built yet, just trying to understand. -LouieIV :)

I'm working on building my first forge. It will be essentially the 'simple gas forge' on Larry Zoeller's site. my question is will the inswool HTZ 2700 deg liner provide significantly better efficiency over the standard 2400 deg inswool? In other words is it worth almost double the cost in propane savings down the road. I will be coating it with I will be coating it with satanite and/or bubble alumina and ITC-100. Any input, opinions, or questions are welcome. Thanks, LouieIV

Just wanted to say hi. I'm interested in trying my hand a blacksmithing, eventually I want to do knives and swords. For the moment I don't need a lot of suggestions I have been doing a lot of digging around and hit most the top sites for startup info, like here, Anvilfire, Don Fogg, Ron Reil, Larry Zoeller, ABANA, just to name a few. So for now I think I'm good . For now I'll be lurking mostly until I have a question or something worthwhile to say. Thanks, LouieIV