Steve Shimanek

That looks like an old but goodie; don't get caught in those open gears.

My fabrication table is 4'x8' and has been collecting odds and ends from constant ongoing projects; i finally got it all cleaned off. (Probably for the first time since i made it). I use it for everything from steel fab, vice station, and sword polishing; as a flat space it tends to attract objects, so it was nice to get it all clean, which will facilitate some upcoming projects.

Just to bring another view to the table; perhaps the temper is a bit soft on purpose to allow the user to easily touch up the blade while working? Geometry of the edge is important; if the edge was thinned excessively, the edge might roll. Food for thought.

Slag from a thermite weld?

The first one is nice; it reminds me of a Miyamoto Musashi ink brush painting.

I would like to comment, but the video does not load for me.

I taught Aikido here for a few years, but finding students who would commit to training was difficult; also, the culture here is not predisposed to the Art of Peace.

Please do.

Are you going to post a video?

That looks like it came out good!

Looks like an axle or output shaft assembly of some kind.

I ended up making a new control rod and wood "buttons" to actuate the switches, with the buttons being threaded to allow for adjustment, and the lower button able to move to adjust stroke height for working with tooling under the ram. I used koa for the buttons; time will tell how well they hold up...I can always remake them from aluminum later if needed. Thanks, Jason.

The issue with 110v welding machines tends to be lack of penetration on thicker materials (3/16 and thicker). Until some experience is gained, it can seem as if a weld has been made, only to discover that the bead did not penetrate sufficiently. Also, a regular 15 amp household circuit breaker will trip regularly using a welder on it, so 20 amp should be considered a minimum for those machines. An arc welder running on 110 volts can do some decent welding for small shop stuff if using small electrodes and multiple passes, and tends towards better penetration than a 110 volt wire feed welder.

Sending good thoughts your way, Randy.

Nice work JLP.

I have gotten a number of my hammers for cheap; on the other hand, i have spent $350 for a particular brand/vintage of hammer, and consider it an investment toward doing work efficiently, thus saving money in the long run. A hammer is a tool, and a tool has a purpose.

Looks like nail clinchers for farriers.

Looks like it hits like a beast, well done. Which Everlast machine is that, I have the PowerPro 256Si.

Northrop P-61 Black Widow?

Funny you mention that, Ted; as you are the one vigorously defending your conclusion in spite of lots of experiences by others to the contrary. Anvil mass is an experiential fact that has been established by long practice, otherwise we would all be forging on I beam or rail instead of 125 plus pound anvils. But no one is stopping you from reinvention of the wheel (anvil).

Nicely done; how will you mount it? I have used wood and stone plaques for a couple, steel base for another.

I have thousands of dives, saw plenty of sharks on some of them; the only thing i have stabbed is fish after I have speared them.  Everyone will have their own perspective on the subject.

"You go on over there, General Custer" Little Big Man, Dustin Hoffman 70s movie

 I  think it was Raymond Richard. It was sold to a local. Maybe from (somewhere else)

BillyBones, to me it looks like your steel for your tongs is burnt(ruined, overheated.) Start fresh and try again.