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I Forge Iron

zampilot

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Posts posted by zampilot

  1. In the winter I use a propane forge in the garage, my anvil is in front of it, a bit higher and a foot away. leaves enough room to put stuff in the forge and it heats the anvil. I let it run about 10 minutes or so on low before using. Keeps the anvil warm enough. BUT I have not tried it at below zero temps, dont think I will!

  2. OK, it was worth the detour. It's not 300 or 360, it's 410 Peter Wright I went up, he came down, sold.
    Forward edge has been radiused for about 4 inches, I'm not worrying about the chips for now. No cracks or welds.
    Addition: after some wire-wheel it's not marked ENGLAND and the '18' may be a '13', or they may have used a '3' and a chisel to make '18'.

    post-12484-0-18308300-1289242269_thumb.j

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  3. Shoot well worth the detour---maybe he'll have something else that's more in line---hammers, tongs, big pile of WI wagon tyres...and don't forget to leave your name and address. I bought a triphammer from an old farrier who "wasn't interested in selling it" till 3 days later he called and said "My wife has said I done been kicked in the head one too many times and I'm retired---come and get the hammer!"


    Exactly!
  4. That may be a Fisher, unmarked. Any paint under the mud?

    Here's a pic of my 'X' brand (the only marking on it), see the similar sweep of the horn into the base and the extra meat under the table end? Someone suggested mine might be a Fisher, no matter though because it's an excellent usable anvil.

    post-12484-055542500 1287906707_thumb.jp


  5. Zampilot, how well charred is your charcoal? If there're any sticks of charcoal, and you break one is it charred all the way through?


    John, it's well-charred. You can tell by how little it weighs, usually! The stuff that wasnt 'done' got burned again. The second fire in the barrel was small splits of oak firewood and old charcoal briquets as I didnt want to waste my pine scrap for the actual fire. When it was going good I put the pine in and let it go 10 minutes then sealed it up.

  6. I was wondring the same thing myself..."how cold is to cold to do forge work"....I have an uninsulated, unheated garage but the temp does get sub-zero in there and I was wondering if pulling a piece out of the forge into the sub-zero air would cool the piece too quickly to get anything accomplished. I am hoping that in a couple years I can section the "shop" part off and insulate and heat it but that is some years away.


    Hey Marcus,
    We are in the same boat temp wise. From my forge to anvil will be about 2 feet distance so I'm hoping it won't chill too much. I can move it in one motion and beat the metal but if it requires 3 or 4 times heating I'll wait til spring...

  7. im trying to aneal some 01 for a knife (already forged to shape just need to grind). but no matter haw long i make it take to cool it just keeps skating my files, i even had it cool with other hot pieces in the bucket of sand and even then it just skates. this last time when i tried when i pulled it out of the bucket it had curved considerably. im trying to finish this knife for a friend of mine who will be shipping to afgahnastan soon so please help!


    If the file skates, it's hardened. Do you mean to temper the blade so it'll take a sharp edge vs annealing (softening) ?

    But I'm a wild-guessing newbie so I may be fit for slaughter!
  8. Winter is anywhere from 2 weeks to two months away, the snowy cold stuff. I would like to continue my heat and beat over the winter weather using a charcoal or propane forge, outside. I'm curious about the potential for damage to my anvil and post vise, they will be very cold temperature-wise. I realize back in the olden days when something needed to be done, it was "to Hades with the weather". I can line up the propane forge to heat the anvil somewhat.
    Any experiences from those of you in Northern Climes that forge outdoors ? A trip to Mexico is not in the cards!

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