zampilot
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Posts posted by zampilot
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Only because I found one a lot bigger than any other around here, and it has a big open flat table so no 'aim small miss small'.
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Best guess after a few clues from the seller is that it was once in the railway shop at Brainerd, MN. The place used to be quite large but it's been razed to one or two buildings left.
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Looking at that step I wouldnt go $3/lb. Maybe $200 max.
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That very closely resembles one I had that someone thought was an unmarked Fisher. 341lbs? Too rich for me!
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Sell 'em all, except the last one.
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That looks like a professional blasting job, probably glass beads. I tried crushed coal slag (used to do guns with it, eats metal up quick if you dont watch closely) on an anvil, didnt even dent the rust at 125 psi. That lasted about 3 minutes.
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I like the not so subtle warning that the new owner is armed and will to protect his anvil!
It's just that time of year up here Tom, grouse and deer, but too darn warm for the deer to move around, 60 degrees is not good hunting! -
OK, it was worth the detour. It's not 300 or 360, it's 410 Peter Wright I went up, he came down, sold.
Forward edge has been radiused for about 4 inches, I'm not worrying about the chips for now. No cracks or welds.
Addition: after some wire-wheel it's not marked ENGLAND and the '18' may be a '13', or they may have used a '3' and a chisel to make '18'. -
So does anyone have an answer to his question?
It might be part of an old switching mechanism. -
at this auction in ohio, they are selling two decent looking hay buddens to the highest bidder, it is a farm auction My link
Sounds like a nice starter set, I wonder how much the cone will go for? -
I like people who have a sense of humor when they need one.
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Shoot well worth the detour---maybe he'll have something else that's more in line---hammers, tongs, big pile of WI wagon tyres...and don't forget to leave your name and address. I bought a triphammer from an old farrier who "wasn't interested in selling it" till 3 days later he called and said "My wife has said I done been kicked in the head one too many times and I'm retired---come and get the hammer!"
Exactly! -
I agree with that but it's only a 20 mile detour on the to the hunting shack next week. I'll flip a coin but wont go anywhere near $1000 for it and the farmer wont sell so.....
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edited my copy. Don't know, maybe will get a pic later.
Ya know, it almost looks like the feet and edge of the base have been torch cut to fit some kind of stand.
Wow, he wants $1000........pretty sure it weighs 300 lbs. -
edited my copy. Don't know, maybe will get a pic later.
Ya know, it almost looks like the feet and edge of the base have been torch cut to fit some kind of stand. -
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Get a rip-roarin' fire going then dump in the scrap, cover it after 10 mins or so, open the next day!
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Zampilot, how well charred is your charcoal? If there're any sticks of charcoal, and you break one is it charred all the way through?
John, it's well-charred. You can tell by how little it weighs, usually! The stuff that wasnt 'done' got burned again. The second fire in the barrel was small splits of oak firewood and old charcoal briquets as I didnt want to waste my pine scrap for the actual fire. When it was going good I put the pine in and let it go 10 minutes then sealed it up. -
I was wondring the same thing myself..."how cold is to cold to do forge work"....I have an uninsulated, unheated garage but the temp does get sub-zero in there and I was wondering if pulling a piece out of the forge into the sub-zero air would cool the piece too quickly to get anything accomplished. I am hoping that in a couple years I can section the "shop" part off and insulate and heat it but that is some years away.
Hey Marcus,
We are in the same boat temp wise. From my forge to anvil will be about 2 feet distance so I'm hoping it won't chill too much. I can move it in one motion and beat the metal but if it requires 3 or 4 times heating I'll wait til spring... -
im trying to aneal some 01 for a knife (already forged to shape just need to grind). but no matter haw long i make it take to cool it just keeps skating my files, i even had it cool with other hot pieces in the bucket of sand and even then it just skates. this last time when i tried when i pulled it out of the bucket it had curved considerably. im trying to finish this knife for a friend of mine who will be shipping to afgahnastan soon so please help!
If the file skates, it's hardened. Do you mean to temper the blade so it'll take a sharp edge vs annealing (softening) ?
But I'm a wild-guessing newbie so I may be fit for slaughter! -
Winter is anywhere from 2 weeks to two months away, the snowy cold stuff. I would like to continue my heat and beat over the winter weather using a charcoal or propane forge, outside. I'm curious about the potential for damage to my anvil and post vise, they will be very cold temperature-wise. I realize back in the olden days when something needed to be done, it was "to Hades with the weather". I can line up the propane forge to heat the anvil somewhat.
Any experiences from those of you in Northern Climes that forge outdoors ? A trip to Mexico is not in the cards! -
I dont start a fire under the barrel, it's in the barrel. But if you mean the first attempt with the pipes, no I'm not counting the wood for the fire under the barrel, which was also scrap, and the barrel wasnt full anyway. I won't be trying that one again.
keeping anvil warm
in Anvils, Swage Blocks, and Mandrels
Posted
In the winter I use a propane forge in the garage, my anvil is in front of it, a bit higher and a foot away. leaves enough room to put stuff in the forge and it heats the anvil. I let it run about 10 minutes or so on low before using. Keeps the anvil warm enough. BUT I have not tried it at below zero temps, dont think I will!