zampilot

Legs should be mild or even real wrought iron. IIRC there are some out there done in ductile though. Did you spark test it?

OK, heat and beat. Hopefully the last hello of minus 10 is tonight, I'll have to waste some propane to warm the anvil tomorrow but I can handle the move and hammer. I pick up my new outside anvil in the next day or two: a 5x5x10" chunk of 4140, I'll sink it in my oak stump in a month or two and commence to 'work harden' it. I'm really stoked to get to heatin' n beatin' on some of the small pile of unknown scrap, RR spikes and old files.

I have a 5" jaw unknown maker leg vise with a bent leg, maybe an inch or so out of straight. Need I worry about heating it to non-magnetic in a propane forge and pounding it straight? I dont have a half-round hardy to use so I'll wing it.

Well, I bought this forge from the person I bought my Hay Budden anvil from. He asked me if I'd be interested in it when I bought the anvil and I tried to research it, but there is no set price on these things as you know. I made an offer and he accepted so when I got the money I contacted him and picked it up last night. I can see that it will need cleaning, adjustments, and a little repair to be perfect, but that's half the fun of owning an original.

Does anyone have a picture of what these look like when 100% complete?

When it gets over 20* F around here I might be able to start on a restoration and cleaning.

Rub in some marine grease all over, like your boat trailer bearings use. Cover it with a good tarp when not in use. Works for me!
The dog house idea is pretty cool also.

I have a 410lb PW that is really rough around the base with no step, ddint know what it was for sure til I wiped some grime away from the logo and weight numbers.

"I know what it's worth, saw one on Ebay....."
A guy sort-of-local has been trying to sell a mediocre PW for a year now, twice on ebay, several times on CL. $450 for a beat,chipped swayback 100lb'r, but he knows what it's worth. I'm really glad I called before driving the 300 mile round trip!

#100 Hay-Budden 1904 made, I'll check the # later.

In general it forgewelds very well, in my experience wagon tires are lower grade wrought so forge it at or near welding heat to avoid delamination. As for electric welding yes, you can do that too but we'd need to see pics to give advice on your specific tire. Tends to melt out more slag than when welding steel.

I have half an old metal wagon wheel about 5 feet in length that seems to be made of wrought iron at least it has striations in the metal when cut and bent back. It also has what look like welds from spoke attachment. Did they weld spokes to WI whels?

The true prices of anvils are what you can pay or what you can get. Sometimes good or not-so-good pics or a cleaned-up anvil help one side or the other a lot. This 100lb PW looks like the edges are chipped away and half the table is gone. In person there are only a few minor chips and the table is nice but with a tiny bit of saddle. Cost me $1.50/lb, down from what the seller wantd. But I bet the pic turned some folks off without making a phone call.

Since 'inheritance' is usually not divisible in divorce, all the stuff you have came from your grandpa and Pa so it's none of her business. But I'm not a lawyer and I dont play one on TV!

I'd jump all over that deal if the 100lb'r is good. You may find yourself selling this to buy that, bought that so sell this, etc. I try to upgrade my anvils as I come across them, wish I hadnt sold a 200lb Trenton but I made 100% on it.

That's my first project when the weather warms up, repairing/making a spring, mount and bracket parts for a orphan 5" post vise. Maybe I'll use the propane forge and get at it earlier!

Heads up out near San Francisco, a guy just listed 6 or 7 nice anvils on CL with fairly high prices to match, but maybe he'll deal a bit.

Nothing looks good on that anvil. But I'm not an expert and I dont play one on TV!

All that in a little tin shed? Plus what looks to be about a 150lb post vise outside? "Beware of The Dog" ?

Looks like the is no 'ENGLAND' marking so it's pre-1910 I think. As mentioned, with that scarfed-up step $300 is more than I'd pay for it, but if you really want it and you like it..........

I did the sand test, all of the sand moved as in lock-step.

I'd finish the project and keep it. It could serve as your outside or inside anvil depending on the weather and how heavy your 'real' anvil is to move around. Heck it may also be an inspirational anvil as you made it yourself and can prove that it works as well as any other, as the 4x4x12 chunk of steel did in Livley's video.

Those square holes (handling holes for rods durning mfr) at the waist would suggest a wrought iron-steel faced anvil. Take a wire brush to it an see what shows up!

Strange edge repair if so but if it's not dead I'd put it to work. The bead may give you a bit of greif but there are other parts of the anvil to go to I guess if it's in the way

Sprinkle dry sand across the face then wack the top of the heel lightly and watch the sand carefully. This will tell you if the plate is comepletely attached.

Rebound and ring are the same across the table, no dead "smackthud". 100 lb'er. Came with a 60 lb post vise.

Looks like the plate was repaired at one time, or did some of them leave the factory like this? Same line seam on the other side also.