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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by plane_crazzy

  1. Any ideas how much a Sheffield in this kinda condition is worth?
  2. just realized you cant see it in the pictures, but a bolt has been been driven or screwed into the pritchel hole. any advice on removing it?
  3. I will. I am terribly disappointed that it is so damaged, but hope to get some use out of it. would you just wire brush the rust around the letters attempting to find more or do you think that will simply harm the ones that can be seen. Honestly I am very impressed you were able to read that much from so few letters. The most I could make out was late and Sanderson.
  4. Picked this up off craigslist the other day. mostly got it because I wanted the post vice that came with it. None the less, I would be curious about who made this beautiful ( whats left of it) anvil.
  5. I will definitely give that recipe a try next time I can find an excuse to hit metal.
  6. I am not sure either. It was marked 0 3 13 so definitely hundred weight. kinda kicking myself for not getting it now.
  7. I was at the flea market yesterday and found an anvil that I could not identify. It was marked in hundred weight on the side and on the other side had BF Stamped into it. It was a London pattern shape, but was heavily damaged. It had extreme mushrooming over the sides and chisel marks along the corners. I probably shoulda picked it up anyway but I didnt. I was just wondering what the BF was?
  8. ianinsa it is a tripod for hanging cooking utensils over a fire to cook in. No food comes into contact with it at any point. I polished and oiled one of them down earlier today and it looks really nice. just hope it holds up
  9. yeah especially with being used outside I try to avoid beeswax as it does get tacky. I was looking at a can of rustoleum today "High Heat" that is designed for fire places screens and grills. It does not require any curing but is not really designed for a surface in direct contact with flame. I am kinda leaning towards just using the linseed oil applied hot and giving a reminder to recoat after use.
  10. I had considered cleaning it up nice, getting it hot and rubbing it with linseed oil and just leaving instructions with it to re-oil after each use. I honestly do not know if a fire like that will cure high temp paint. The directions usually call for cooking it at specific temperatures for a set amount of time and I do not know if laying over a fire will be sufficient. Thanks Bluegrass for the input, I am kinda out of ideas on this one.
  11. I just finished a twin tripod cooking rack and am having a dilemma. Normally I seal work with the usual waxes of oils, but this one presents a unique challenge because of being used in close proximity to a camp fire. I have looked at high temperature paints for grills or automobile exhausts, but they all require that they be cured in heat. The length of the legs, at about 6 feet each, makes this impossible to properly cure these paints. Anyone run into this problem before? or know of a solution? Many thanks.
  12. I am working on another fire ring project but this time I need to have it bolted together. I thought a nice decorative fastener would be using square black oxide bolts. I have seen them referenced on the forum many times, but never anyone saying where they get theirs. I have seen them on ebay as well as Kayne and Son. I was just curious if there was another supplier out there that other people used and liked better. Thanks.
  13. yeah... as designed thats about what the forge should have been... I ordered fire bricks through a pottery dealer and when they came in they were undersize so it cut down on my volume a good bit. Right now both ends are totally open. so there is a 4.5" x 6" doorway in front and back.
  14. pictures of the reducer and overall burner assembly
  15. sorry frosty, I was posting from my phone and didnt have the dimensions available. All that was at home. The interior is 4.5" x 6" x 18" so a volume of 486 Cubic Inches. the Mig tips are .035"
  16. I do have the mig tips as far down the reducer as they can reach, I will try raising them up some and firing it up again. I tried shutting off gas to the "good" burner and just lighting the other one. when I did this the gas was wanting to go out the side of the reducer. I actually lit it there and had a flame going out the side.
  17. My apologies Frosty, I should have included more info on the burners themselves. I am using the Z side burners with the ward reducers. They are 3/4 burners using mig tips threaded into 1/4" black pipe nipples. I have torch cleaners so I will try that. Any idea why one burner would burn rich and one wont ignite at all? I will take a pic of the whole burner assembly when I get a chance.
  18. not sure, Will be tearing it apart when I get home this evening. I was careful when I assembled it, but anything is possible.
  19. I just finished the sheet metal, and the burners for my first gas forge build. One of the burners didnt ignite at all... the other seemed to be burning well, but I do not have anything to compare to. I posted a video on youtube of it burning. I do not have the flares done yet for the burners, but I was anxious to see it all fired up lol. The burner that did not fire up seems to want to burn out the venturi hole instead of the propane igniting in the forge chamber. The injection nipple is the same set up on bother burners and I do not see a reason why it isnt burning right. Any help? htt
  20. Thanks doc, I was figuring that was a given, but always best to be sure. The tap block does sound like a good project.
  21. My VFD to wire it up should arrive today. I am hopeful to see it run this coming weekend.
  22. yeah they need at least a 18"x24" Plate and at least 32" between the posts. the real kicker is that it can not be over 12 feet tall.
  23. anyone have any experience with the guru's burner on anvilfire's page? http://www.anvilfire.com/article.php?bodyName=/FAQs/gas_forges.htm
  24. I am affiliated with a local museum and they have tasked me with finding a ~200 Ton Hydraulic Press for stamping out aircraft parts. I have been looking for a while with not much luck. Figured I would ask on here if anyone had a good site to check for that type of machinery on. Thanks
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