Norseman C.B.

16 hours ago, Judson Yaggy said:

Odduck.  He was casting blowers out of aluminum.  

Yeah that's the guy, If he's still around here shoot him a PM,  I watched him develop the stuff

in stages on this site and it looked good ....

There was a guy on this site a couple years back that was

making them and selling kits or whole assemblies, his handle was something duck or duck something ....

Looks good Mike ....Gonna hafta see you some time soon, been awhile  

Hey Kid; when are you gonna fire up the forge you got from me ???  :P :D !!!

Hey Mike ;  Cool how that stuff works aint it ? ..How's things, I;m workin again WOO HOO !!  :D

Glad to see you on this forum, all your videos are inspiring and as Bryan said, MORE !!!!

Cool gig nice eatin size pike !!  B)

I use my 75# er cuz it's what I got ... :P

Hey Mikey I like it !!  :D

                   Gotta drive over an rattle yer chain soon .....

I prefer function over form myself, if it works to fabricate it, do it !!

                                                                      My $.02

Ditto, they look to be very well made round stock benders indeed....

On second thought they're lousy lookin scrap send them to me for disposal !!! ... :D

Nice job Mike.... ;)

OK Norseman / where you @ again LOL brain tired :wacko: pics didn't work @ the post :mellow: will try again later
OIL burner COOL I!got pics ? my shop stove works on oil an wood & blower air very basic would like to use only wast oil for heat for shop then again that brings the ? of an oil fired forge :) intro the picture

Steve

Hi all

I'm very new to this and am just finding my way around. I have a large steel pipe fence that I want to use and cut up. The problem is is that on the inside of the pipes (the outside is painted) are dark grey and show barely any corrosion, just little flecks of rust.

Anyway I have read about the fume fevers you can get when working with this stuff and I want to be as safe as possible when it comes to that. How can I tell if this is coated with zinc or not? I can't really get in there to look since it's a 2" wide pipe, nor can I file it off.

Sorry if this is comes off as a dumb question, but I really want to begin without getting sick from fumes. I can't wait to join your forum also, it looks like a great place :)

E.J. Bartell's has a store in Eugene, OR. The two castable products that I've bought from them are : Mizzou, which is hard like concrete and had a good insulation index,,, and, Cast-O-Lite, which is kind of softer and easier to scratch, but has a great insulation index. They both have expiration dates on the bag, you will need to store the unused powder in a good ammo can where they stay dry

I have started to design & build a new propane forge for the shop finely :D What I am building is a flat top forge with a ribbon burner pointing straight down, this top piece 31" X 31" SQ metal tray will be hook up to a trailer jack so the hole top can be moved higher or lower depending on size of project being worked then you just stack fire brick for walls

Now the ?? I want to cast the top tray piece in one pour I am looking for a Good high temp cast-able
ANY Ideas on what to buy & from who

Also any Ideas on how to hole the castable in the tray I am thinking on some SS rod -- like you would do a cement floor with re bar OR would T piece weld in be better ?

I will post pics as things get built :) the floor part is built it will be brick hard or soft that is still a ??
this hole forge unit will swing over my Lg coke forge or swing out of the way to use coke forge
do to my forge area space, also forge top piece is removable to fix or change out to another top unit
if need be for future whatevers LOL ! later I will make a cart for it so it could go outside if needed

this is my take on a multiple use / size forge, for the strange sculpture forms we are doing lately
Like this ss sea creature in the works other than the stand the creature is all formed ss plate

Finally after two years of effort It is other than registration fees, ready to ride..
I like it hope you do too..... B)

( The test run was great !!!!! )

Very nice! I like it a lot. Thanks for posting.


Mitch

Looks like a pile of fun! Where's your hound dog going to sit?

I have some antique lathes and lathe parts that have attached themselves to me.

I need to do some more research before I put them in the Tailgating section.

Lorch & Schmidt "LL", small Oliver metal lathe (the bed is about 26") and a transmission gearbox for belt drive and tailstock from a 13' or 14' Cincinnati lathe. 2 mini's and a giant. I think the Lorch is a clockmakers lathe.

I can't find anything about the smaller Oliver metal lathe.

Anyone have any thoughts or people to contact?

Thanks

This is a two year old project that I hope to have on the road before the snow flies.
I'll post more pics soon, gotta finalize the wiring update the brakes and finish the paint,
then make it legal with DMV. Grand baby approves and wants a ride !!!

Cool!

I too stated a FACT !! If you choose to take that as an insult thats YOUR problem !!!
I've been making knives for twenty years and dont condone anyone rainning on a newbies parade by telling him to quit !!!!

Judging by your avatar pic you aint a free man any more !!..LOL
Congrats on your weddin...

Looks like you have a good start on your table. I too wanted a platen table but could not find anything locally or affordable so I built my own. This probably wont work for you since you already have the steel for the top. The top of my table is made up of 6" C-Channel spaced 1.5" apart. This allows C-Clamps to be used anywhere on the table. If one piece gets too worn or warped it can easily be replaced. It is not as flat as a cast iron platen but I have shimmed each piece to the accuracy of the C-Channel and it is fine for the work I do. I also have two sockets on each end where I can mount tools such a vise or grinder. This is not my design I saw it on the Practical Machinist web site.