ofafeather

I would like to make a few punches. Are they usually flat on the working end? Do they taper or are the usually uniform thickness? Thanks!~Eric

Don, thanks. When you're looking for the C shape, is it when the hinge is flat as if looking down from above or in the cross section, as if looking at the thickness of the metal? How much length of material do you figure you need to roll the barrel? I drew out the material a little before rolling.

If you don't have a fuller/guillotine whats the best way to form the neck on the strap before the spear point?

John, again thanks for your information. Okay, so hot cut chisel vs. hardy! Got it.

As far as the hinge parts go, I think I am following what you are saying. The last thing you mentioned "One thing to take into account when forming the rolled eye on a strap type hinge is that the rolled end will not be parallel as the metal collapses in at the centre of the eye, to prevent this, you have to form a convex shape on the eye end, then roll, and this should produce a parallel barrel." - does this mean that in the center of the stock where I am going to roll the eye I should forge a convex shape (curving up) parallel to the length of the strap?

Also, would ap and tle be the same as strap and pintle? It's confusing!

Can't remember which site I was on...with their textured lag bolts they recommended using the "Gator Socket". Its that yuppie one socket fits all with the pins that grab the bolt head. seems like it would work well. Since that socket is grabbing whatever it can to turn your bolt.

Hi Eric, Good attempt, Looks fine,

If the barrel is tight, don't be afraid to run a drill bit through it just to clean it up and allow the pin to spin

Slitting chisels are fine, but you are better with the hot cut, a little more meat on these to absorb a bit of heat before cooling in use,

Tongs that fit are always a good idea,

Punches for the mounting holes too are a good idea, quicker than drilling and more in keeping with the appearance of the finished item.

Amount of stock you are going to use will depend on your method of how you are going to make them, Stock removal to shape with hot cuts is relatively simple, when you start forging and drawing out thats a whole different proposition, experience helps, but if you try the old plasticene/clay model proceedure that may help you.

Well, here's my first attempt. It started as 3/16 x 2" x 3'. I started by working the neck. I don't have a fuller so worked on the edge on the anvil (if you can call the beat up edges on my anvil that!) and the beak to bring down the neck. I decided to trim the corners off the end using the hot cut. Should have brought them all the way to a point, though. Don A, your thread was really helpful but I didn't see it until after I already started working! I kept tapering the cross section and would smooth out the face on the flat of the anvil. Occasionally I would draw out the thickness on the beak as it was getting quite thick near the edges from making the taper. I spread the front part a bit and also shaped it using the step of the anvil. I used the hot cut to cut off the part from the original stock. That was a chore. I need to get some slitting chisels, I think. Started forming the eye and tried to use 3/8" round stock for size. That wasn't easy though. I don't have any round swage to help refine the shape of barrel so here it is. I either need to open it up a bit or draw down the pin some. Its a tight fit. Overall, just over 7". It needs to be flattened a touch.

It was a chore. Some fullering tools would be a great help. Also, some better tongs for holding the flat stock once it is cut. Oh! Also, my hand truck came in handy for a stock stand for the forge. The long parent stock wouldn't balance in the gas forge, being too long for the stock rest that I have. One of the cross pieces on the hand truck was the perfect height to balance the stock while it was in the forge.

Anyway, thoughts and feedback would be great! Thanks for your input. I appreciate it.

Also, how do you plan how much stock you will use?

Eric

Any thoughts on how to form the typical "acorn" shape at the end of a strap hinge? Would you start by cutting off some of the corners of the flat bar (3/16" x 2") and then forging to shape or can you just forge it to shape?

Here are a few made at a St Clems Day meeting, they should give some ideas of hinges, pintles are not shown, but easy enough to make

I'd go larger than 1/4" for the pin; fist time some kid swings on the gate your 1/4 will be loaded a lot more than you expected!

An even simpler design just has the hinge parts stack---no "cutting out" necessary---also makes it easier to demount the gate by opening it and then just lifting it off the pins.

Buy lag bolts, de-galvanize them if you have to; but remember that rust never sleeps!

Hi, all. Anyone have some basic hinge design ideas for a simple garden gate hinge? It doesn't need to support too much weight as it will be on cedar picket fence. As far as the design goes I'm really looking for basic building concepts and not decorative features of which there are many!

My basic thought is to cut out some blanks using about 2" flat stock. Forge the barrel around 1/4" round. On one section cur out the center of the barrel. On the other, cut the ends. I'd like the pin to be loose so I'll for a head on it.

Also thinking about making bolts for it. If I use 1/4" round stock to make lag nuts would that be too small? I think the next size I have is 3/8". How to you put threads on for a lag screw? I have a basic tap and die set but I would think that is more for machine typ screws.

Anyway, thanks for any input, suggestions and information.

Eric

I found the One Heat Tong thread here:

and came across Brian's video showing the whole process with clay:

http://picasaweb.google.com/brianbrazealblacksmith/TongBlankInClay#

It was great for me because he explains the whole process and it's clear to see how he uses the fullering hammer - fullering die and flat die.

That left me with a couple of questions though - what kind of clay do you use? Also, what exactly is planishing? Is it flattening? Brian has more one heat videos in his Picasa web album which I plan on watching. Thanks, Brian!

what about the striking end of the fullering hammer...seems to me it should be softer so as not to chip when hit with another hammer

Plain mild steel works quite well but does have to be cared for - although it's no worse than seasoning an old cast iron pot for preservation.

If you still want stainless, then 303 or 304 will both serve the purpose but you should also passivate the material after forging and final polish.

What kind of steel would you use for serving utensils, like fork/spoon set? It would need to be food safe and stay shiny without applying a finish that would be worn away. I have some stainless but don't know the type- think it's 304

Brian, Thanks for the great explanation. It's pretty amazing what you can accomplish with the rounding hammer! Thanks again.

Hi, Brian. Those are fantastic looking hammers! Thanks for sharing. Being somewhat new to this I am having a hard time figuring out the difference between the rounding and fullering hammers. Which is which and when would you choose one over the other? I am thinking that a rounding hammer has a round domed face and is used for dishing? A fullering hammer would be more like a peen? Sorry, a little confused. Great hammers, though!

Also, seems like the hammer would work well with those using Hofi's method in terms of balance of the head and type of handle. Is that the case?

Thanks!

Eric

Okay, figured out how to link to a post. Here it is:

Also, for tightening handles, some people in the same thread recommend soaking the head in linseed oil.

I also recommend a B Brent Bailey hammer. His quality is unbeatable and if there was such a thing as perfection his work is it.

Fe-wood: Do you know what that goo is, Or does anyone know how to keep handles tight in the summer heat? Soaking in water is a bad idea.
Thanks
Rob

Hi, All. I have a 3lb Hofi Cast hammer, which I love. I find myself with the need for a smaller/lighter hammer for various reasons. This hammer will complement my 3# so I would like the same style. I'm looking for a 2 to 2-1/4#. Hofi makes a 2.2 which would be great but are not readily available in the states. There are a few people making Hofi style hammers. Brent Bailey will make whatever weight I like and the others are limited to what they stock. Any thoughts?

http://www.nanricsto...OSS-PEIN/Detail

http://www.blacksmit...159686&detail=1

Brent Bailey http://www.brentbaileyforge.com/ will also make one, though it's not listed on his site. (see attached pic)

Are car/truck parts like leaf/coils springs & axles generally safe?

anymore info-mercial quotes....

Hey, count me in! Let's see, scrolling tongs, oh and those new ones you make, the universal v-bits, and every size in V-bit bolt tongs, except 1/4. I have 1/4. I'll need some goosenecks and maybe some duckbills, blade tongs, and...well just send them all. Bill it to 1600 Pennsylvania Ave., Washington, DC.

C'mon Grant! Put on your salesman hat and sell the guy a set on tongs for 3/8" stock!

Frosty, yes Benzomatic commercial kit. There is no sign of damage. It's a new bottle with adjustment valve on the nozzle which screws directly onto the bottle. The hot end was loose but I tightened it before lighting. I decided to take a break and eat lunch AS I was getting frustrated. I came back and it worked like a charm. It is breezy today and that may be a factor. Plus, I had to work pretty low to the ground and I think that a lot of the propane doesn't have time to fully gasify. My theory is that after using the bottle and emptying it a bit it the gas flowed better. Just a theory, though.

Oh, the flame was impossible to see in the daylight but in the smithy was a beautiful blue.

Grant, I think that's the same reason it can't be used upside down.

Thanks for the input. It may have been just one of those things. :(

Hi, All. Trying to do a small plumbing repair and I bought a propane torch kit. It doesn't want to stay lit. I have it on very low and use a sparker to start up and it seems to blow itself out. Even when I get it going for a bit and increase the pressure a touch it blows out shortly after. Any ideas?