Tim McCoy

Welcome to IFI - good luck as you get started - search with the follwoing words: forge, firepot, super sucker, portable forge, coal, coke and tuyere. Links to follow-
Tim

Very distinctive! Like the way you handled the horns by bringing them down and out of the way.

Ditto on the fire extinguisher - haven't seen one like this in years

Very well done Stormcrow - Love the handle finish!

Dallas,
sounds like you had fun while learning - great start!

Isn't the initial result of what you are doing something some of us refer to as "fishmouth"? Seems to work great whatever it is - I'll try it soon.

That looks horrible. You should send it to me for proper disposal!



Seriously, though, that's going to make a very good anvil. The only problem I see is running a shin into that rebar sticking out the sides.

I was actually thinking about making a cement stand for my anvil so I appreciate you showing the steps. I wouldn't have thought it would take three bags of mix! Wonder how much you could thin that down by dropping in some brick/block pieces. Seem to remember somewhere that you could use broken cinder blocks for no more than 40% of the pour, but that was for patios and the like.

Let us be thankful that some anvils are being saved, used or unused. In 1969, nothing much was going on the U.S. world of blacksmithery. Then Alex Bealer's book came out, and there began a resuscitation of the craft. Because of this renewed interest, because of blacksmithing organizations, and because of Postman's "Anvils in America," we are now aware of brand names, weight markings, countries of origin, and manufacturing dates/processes.

In my early days of learning the craft, I heard rumors of flat car loads of anvils heading for the scrap yards for the WW II "war effort." Was the flat car rumor true? Who knows?

In any event, I suspect that the rescue of anvils is currently outweighing the scrapping of anvils.

VaughnT
Probably most any added material will work - more rebar, chunks of concrete, etc. The rebar sticking out the sides is actually about 3" long - with my toes against the block they won't touch the shins. They aren't necessary of course, just something I thought I would try. Can always cut them off if they offend in any way The cement as bagged is about 5% rock and the rest is the portland cement, etc. This set up has different structural needs than say a sidewalk or a pillar supporting weight. Almost all of the force used to strike with will go downward. If you could see the bottom of the base you would see that the base of the round bar is flush with the base of concrete block. The block provides a suitable base that won't move much ... the 120# anvil is heavy enough alone to strike against - supposedly works like an London pattern anvil of 3 times the weight of the steel round.

Now comes the work - I mixed a little over 3 60# bags of cement and poured it into the form. Mixed everything just a little wet to allow the old man to work slower. After three days I knocked the form off and have been waiting for this thing to get dry ... won't hit it until it has set for at least 30 days. With the forms off the block/base has no external attachments to act as a bottom or sides. It's just a concrete block. I will "finish" this by grinding the tabs on the through bars so that they aren't spear points. And I will grind the upper edges of the upright handles to allow them to be struck if needed and not leave grooves in the hot metal. I left the top of the block unfinished to allow for a rough surface thereby making it hard for items I lay on it to roll away.

This is one way to create a heavy alternate to a regular anvil - weighs about 300# as it sets. Seems to be drying nicely, no cracks. My intention is to paint the block/base a flat black. No paint on the bar. This set up allows me to have a heavy, stable working/striking surface. Comments are always welcome ... more once I get it finished.

So, I cut the bar the cheap the way and it took several hours over several days ... actually had to cut both ends as this was a piece that was flame cut from a longer bar. Once I had my "stabilizer" in place I cut some old cement forming plywood to make a box that is approx 12 x 12 x 18" as a form for my base. I placed two cross pieces of 5/8" rebar and various other pieces of smaller rebar to provide some internal strength (no photo of that). I set the bar onto 1/2" plywood with a large plastic bag on it. No bottom to the base - you see what I did in the photos. Also set into the box two 5/8" pieces rebar bent to reach from the bottom of the base to sitck up above top of concrete to allow for lifting points and perhaps metal bending points. The two through rods were left about 3" proud of the sides for more lifting choices and/or bending points. The bar weighs approx 120"

I hope that I have placed this in the correct forum.

I have a 4.25 x 29" round bar that I have spark tested. It seems to be medium high carbon and is hard as heck to grind. Bought at scrap yard for 25 cents/pound 18 months ago. I cut enough off the original length to get the 29" leftover. Cut it with a hand powered hacksaw. After much thought, I decided to mount it in a block of concrete. The photos explain more than I can write here ... cutting, and adding a piece to help prevent the bar from turning while being hit ... the plate I attached is held on with all-thread rod bolted through a 1/2" plate. The all-thread tends to bite into the steel bar (not much, but enough) to help keep the plate in place - the concrete will also help the plate remain where I put it ... plate will be near the bottom of the bar once it is set. More in next posting.

I believe that steel has molucules that are closer together and contains a higher carbon content than most all cast or wrought iron. That allows the compression that occurs when you strike it to rebound (equal/oposite reaction) with more force. The force of the striking hammer coupled with the rebounding force is what "works" the metal you are beating and changes its shape. There are lots of math formulae that explain this. Cast iron, and ductile iron are not as hard as cast steel or most tool steels.

Yes some anvil makers in the past made London pattern anvils by either forging a steel plate on top of wrought iron or cast iron body - thereby creating a hard surface that would last longer with less deformation ... it seems that now most all larger anvil manfacturers make their smackers from cast steel - saves time in production apparently thereby saving costs. There are many threads here about alternates to the more familiar london pattern anvils ... most will work for many purposes, its just like is mentioned above, the London pattern is the swiss knife of anvils and has been proven over the last couple hundred years. There also a couple threads about making/forging your own London pattern anvil ... If I remember correctly no one who has done this suggests it as a profitable way to go for a one off unit.

I found this thread way too late - after viewing it twice I know that I will never again complain about how to work the normal sized pieces I try. An excellent tutorial that should be required viewing for first time blacksmiths. Like the larger than life mechanical displays used in the military for weaponry and armoured vehicles that make installation and maintenance of pieces and parts easier; this thread makes something like forging and installing a rivet on regular work look like childs play. And if someone can fuller steel that large how could I have trouble with making a hammer? Well done and thank you for being willing to share Michael!

Sometimes a work is posted here that transcends what might be called "excellent" in it's creativity and skill level. Most people would never believe that metal could be worked so well, with such expressiveness. From the turned head to the treatment of the cross, you have made something that demands our attention whether we have any religious leanings or not. Yes, I am impressed !

Wonderful :D

My location is shown on my profile page ... no idea why it isn't shown with my posts?

Sorry Ferrous, didn't notice my location wasn't on the page ... Las Vegas, NV

Makes one wonder what is being done lately that is equal - thanks for the posting!!

Strong looking piece, fitting for any man. The "rough" look of it tends to make it appear antique or ancient - Celtic maybe. Really well done. Your talent is showing through :D

Wonderful story and an even more wonderful sword - your work never ceases to amaze!!

How is it possible to keep the hex shape throughout the thinner part of the head? Is the hex shape forged after the waist of the hammer ends are forged?? You have a beatiful hammer there!

Thanks Big Red ... once I have it completed I'll post photos in it's own thread ... about 3 weeks.

Many of us here freely upload oodles of information - videos, printed material and so on and it it is frequently done without attribution. IMHO this happens without any desire to be seen as the "creator", but in our enthusiasm to offer up information to the collective we bring what we find. Perhaps this can be a point where we consider the implications of violating anothers ownership to an idea or concept - the copywrite if you will.

Violation of copywrite covers the misuse or theft of any original idea. The violation of copywrite is not often clear, hence trials to make determinations about copywrite viloations. Misuse can be defined very loosely and it is so rampant nowadays (since the internet) that actual prosecution is not that great. Einhorn's suggestion of imbedding a mark or identifier is a good one for visual stuff. We can also be supportive of another persons creative work by making full disclosure about where we found the info we put forth ... it's a good thing to give credit where it's due.

I am in possession of an idea for a tool that I cannot bring forward because it is not mine. If I were to get permission from the creator in writing then I could share it with anyone I care to. Often times we read books that have concepts that the author allows to be reprinted - with attribution. By providing the information for your source you can usually cover yourselve from any charge of violating copywrite.

Everything in these photos may be used for an "anvil alternative". They include a piece of I-beam, elevator counter wieght, block mild steel, piece of fork lift tine, mild steel plate, a piece of railroad rail and a round high carbon steel bar mounted in concrete and even the head of a hammer can be used. Use what you have and replace it as soon as you can, when you can - that is IF you don't like what you have or it isn't meeting your needs. Through out all of this site there are examples of alternates to London Pattern anvils. In fact, it seems that most people working metal have several types of anvil . . . use what you have and worry about the details later.