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I Forge Iron

hdwarner

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Posts posted by hdwarner

  1. ahhhhhhhh , i love dumpster diving
    i can't count the treasures i get from dumpsters
    i even have a few favorites now.
    there is a hardware store near me that throws all kinds of usable goods away
    i am right at home with my butt hanging out or i will climb right in
    someone even made a comment one time when i was inside , did someone throw me away. i replied "yes unfortunatly they did"
    they replied back " well you do look worn out and broken down"
    smart alek

  2. hey Kevin
    that is a beautiful lathe , for about 1500 it is still a good buy
    however one flaw that unless you can accommidate it would be another couple hundred
    to remedy
    it has a three phase motor. do you have three phase , oops i forgot you were an electrician , you could build a phase convertor .

    that harrison lathe that imagadude has is a good one
    other names that i prefer for mid size lathes with about a 10 inch swing would be
    a harrison colchester , monarch , sheldon , hardinge .
    chuck

  3. what can anyone tell me about hardfacing
    i have the low carbon anvils , i am a machinist so i can mill down the top if i need to
    i have a mig welder and an acwelder
    do i need any other tools to do job
    what rod do i need , please be specific on brand name and flavor please
    i may want to play with this process just for the sake of doing so

    one more question , i have a 300 pound haybudden with about a 1/8 dip in center
    form usage , how far can i machine down to eliminate this or is hardfacing an option

    or should i just forget all this nonsense and buy one of those rat hole forge anvils i have been eying

  4. two anvils for pickup
    the five hundred pounders dimentions are 36 long by 17 high
    by the face width a little under 6 inches
    a one inch hardy and it looks like a min of 1/2 pritchel

    the 280 not sure will measure later

    the chemical analisis is 98 percent iron
    .16 carbon
    .85 mangense
    brand new old stock from a local steel supplier near me
    to head this off at the pass so as i don't have to be offended

    I KNOW THEY ARE NOT HAY BUDDENS , FISHERS , PETER WRIGHTS
    OR ANY OTHER QUALITY ANVIL
    I REALIZE THAT THIS SITE IS PEPPERED WITH WEALTHY BLACKSMITHS
    WITH EXQUISITE TASTES AND DEEP POCKETS , THIS ANVIL IS NOT FOR THESE BLACKSMITHS
    I DO KNOW FOR LESS THAN A DOLLAR A POUND THEY ARE A VIABLE
    ANVIL WITH A LITTLE WORK AND PERHAPS A CARBURIZATION THESE ARE VIABLE ANVILS FOR THE UNWEALTHY BEGINNER OR HOBBIEST BLACKSMITH

    5095.attach

  5. i just got the spectrometer report back
    the anvil has 98 percent iron
    .16 percent carbon
    .85 percent mangenese
    probally equivilent to about a36 steel
    so carburizing is definatly in the picture .
    i know rebound is definatly related to hardness of anvil
    i have a hay budden and the rebound on this anvil doesn't compare, it is good but not that good

  6. it is i who is selling the anvils,
    they are not STOLEN .
    I bought them , they are old stock that were in a steel and metal liquidators wharehouse
    there used to be more , 100"s and 150"s but gone now
    they are not as bad as some portrey them they are steel and they ring well
    i liken them to the harbor freight anvils they have a 1 inch hardy
    i have a hay budden myself and a mouse hole these anvils are certainly not as good these but for less than a dollar a pound i think pretty good value
    the heat treater gave me a price on heat treating for a 100 dollars
    i soild one to one guy that works at a foundry and he is going to give me an analisys on the steel they are made from.
    a knifemaker from maryland bougfht one and happy to have it because the long horn .

  7. larry check out my gallery , i mounted mine as a vertical stationary
    bought from hf for 69 dollars threw the factory blades away and bought morse brand blades
    satisfied
    going to make a better table soon,
    for what i do this is good enough , just a slice here a slice there ,
    i used it to saw one of those crosses everyone sems to like i even think you posted one
    chuck

  8. try putting tension on the handle while tapping with a brass hammer on the front
    of vise handle where cross bar is go back and forth with your tension ,
    simulate an impact hammer ,
    if in fact it is cross threaded evetually there will be movement and it should probally break loose

  9. my life is made easier by three drill presses , one with a permanent mount cross slide from the palmgreen company with a quick acting palmgreen vise so minimal set up is needed to drill a hole
    one is standard duty that i can set up and leave for like 1/4 inch holes in
    brackets and what not

    i have a steel rollaround table with a 1.5 thick top with a grid of holes drill and tapped thru out for fixturing , with a machinist vise mounted , and a floorlock for stability
    built by me .

    i have my aircompressor mounted in the attic of my garage with hardpiped lines so
    i only need about 10 foot of hose where ever i am .

    i keep all the accessories and spare blades either hanging or close by all my power tools
    with wrenches also hanging.

    i try to store everything in a visual line of site , one thing i hate is rebuying something
    becuase i forgot i bought two years ago and have in a can somewhere and rediscover next week
    i have a whole wall of those open bins large and small {acro}
    from screws to electrical outlets

    i have somesort of tape measure about every 5 square foot of my home and shop
    i am always measuring something it seems

    i have scratch pads everywhere also

    to name a few things that make my life easier,
    as you get older lost energy in looking for stuff or doing it the hard way is not an option
    if i spend 15 minutes looking for something i am exausted and frustrated

  10. here is on idea i came up with for my lug wrenches i bought cheap .
    replacement quill handles for my old shopsmith 10 er
    i cut the ends off held in lathe turned a diameter and put a 3/8-16 thread on
    and walah quill handles , heavy duty ones at that .

    4819.attach

    4820.attach

  11. hello Rod,
    here are some helpful links
    Page Title
    Machining & Metrology Unit - Handout (0102)
    recommend learn about s.f.m , this will be real helpfull
    rigidity is one very key to succesfull machining .
    start off easy by making a bushing you probally need for a grinder or something{everyone needs one for some reason}

    place some stock in the lathe chuck sticking out about 1.5 longer than bushing with
    at least this much in the chuck {more preferred}
    #1 center drill stock to about a dia of about the same size as finished hole size
    #2 drill thru about .032 under finished hole size
    #3 face part off
    #4 finish turn part about .1875 past finished length
    #5 put chamfer on front of part on turned dia.
    #6 finish bore dia about .0625 past finished length and chamfer bore
    #7 part off be sure part off blade is perpendicular to part and parrallel to face of chuck
    and leave about.032 long for finsh face
    #8 remove remnant from chuck , chuck bushing with part off side out finish face
    to length put chamfer on od and id of part.

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