Grundsau

Thanxs to everyone that took time to help me out. The LG will be loaded for free so I've decided to transport it upright in the early morning hours. Less traffic on the roads and I can go slow. The plan is to bolt it down to the trailer, use heavy lumber bracing and heavy duty straps. I made contact with an excavating company about unloading it. They'll use their extenda-hoe backhoe to unload it and set it almost in place with straps for a small fee. A tow truck is a good idea but it can't get close enough to the shop. Things are looking better and with less chance of someone getting hurt. Now I have to come up with a base to set it on, on my brick floor. thanks, Allen

Thank you for the replies. The 5'x8' tilt trailer can handle 2300 pounds and is towed by a Trailblazer. It is made of angle iron and the bed consists of 2x8 pressure treated boards. I'd say it has good strong points. I normally transport 1 ton pallets of wood pellets every season so it can handle the weight but I understand that is nothing like this machine. I have no experience in moving this type of equipment. It will be transported on mostly flat and well-maintained backroads. There is a short dirt lane to the back of our property where the shop is located with a slight hill to traverse down to the shop. I have moved multiple tons of pellets thru this same area with no loss of traction issues. I also volunteer with a Rescue Dept and have extensive experience with cribbing and securing unstable vehicles for patient removal and have access to any tools that our Rescue carries to help with this move. Manpower will not be an issue on moving day. I had thought about ramping and rolling. I may be able to have someone with a backhoe to unload it and would prefer that so the old tire idea might be best. But when looking at the machine, it looks like some disassembly would be required to protect it from damage by a chain or straps. Hope I didn't miss anything. thanks, Allen Here are some shots I took. They are a bit noisy due to low lighting.

I did a search for this topic but didn't see anything. Once the snow melts I will be transporting a 50lb LG to my shop. Its only 5 miles away and am using a utility trailer that is big enough to handle the weight. A loader is avaiable to put it on the trailer but not to get it off. How would you transport it? I was told to lay it down but that would probably entail some disassembly to prevent damge to moving parts. thanks, Allen

Hi pamike, you may want to consider joining PABA. That is the Pennsylvania Artist Blacksmith Association and is a nice group to get to know. You'll get some good networking thru them. Here is a link: PABA Home I'm in Berks Co which is a couple of hours from you. If you're ever going to be down my way, send an email and we'll try to hook up. Allen

Hi longhunter, welcome to the board. I'm located in Berks Co., what area are you from? Allen

Several PM's sent due to the amount of info. :)

Thanks. The ITC was not applied yet in that photo. I was firing the burners off and on for the wool to take a set. Btw, I wear a respirator when using the raw wool. I did one coat of ITC later on but am going to touch-up a few spots that didn't get coated. Not sure if it needs another application though. edited to add: Here is what Jay sent me: Fire the forge a couple times before coating the refractory with ITC-100. Mix the ITC-100 two parts coating with one part water and mix to a uniform consistency. Before coating the fiber with ITC-100 use a spray bottle to mist the surface of the fiber with clean water. Dip the brush in water and wring it out. Then brush on a thin coating. Apply a second coat if necessary. Coat the entire inside of the forge and any exposed areas. Let the coating dry over night for best results. If you want all of his instructions I can PM it to you.

My burners are set a bit more or less from what Jay initially had it set at. Here is a photo but it isn't a close-up

Hi Russell, how did you make out with the burners and liner? I got the ITC-100 applied about seven days ago and used the forge for a few hours today. Ran it at 5psi and need to experiment a bit more. I'm used to working at a bright orange-yellow heat and 5psi was giving me a medium-orange heat. Gas is nice and allows me to be productive by having more steel in the "fire" without fear of burning it up among other things. Then I can work like an assembly line when doing a run of the same item. It does have a bit of "dragon's breath" when two or three burners are firing. I tried setting it on top of the coal forge with an end pointed at the side-draft chimney and it created its own draft which helped vent a good portion of the hot gases. Allen

I picked up one of his 3 burner oval forge kits aways back. Just put the double lining in this afternoon and fired all three burners for a short amount of time. Did it take much to tune yours? At 10psi it starts to roar :cool: and idles nice around 3psi. Am planning to add the ITC coating next week. If only I could find some john deere green high temp paint it'd look great. My dad and I built a coal forge out of stone in 1997 and have been wanting to use gas for awhile now. It should be great for doing multiples of the same item and for long pieces. Am going to save the coal for big stuff and forge welding. If I were going to build one again, I'd make it all out of metal. That way it could be moved if the need ever arises. Allen

Hi Russell, is that burner from Jay Hayes? Looks just like the three burners I'm working on. The flame looks good. Here's a link to the Reil photo and it came from this page. Allen

Thanks for replying. The color is not from the mig wire. I had tried a wirecup brush on the horn and saw the same thing where there was no welding. Thanks for mentioning about the MG470 rod. I've used MIG wire before on a Peter Wright with excellent results. Since I'm again just cleaning up some of the edges on this anvil it should still work.

Hi folks, new member here. Picked up 2 rusty anvils last Winter. One of them looked like someone used it as a base for a cutting torch. Tried to fix some of it with my MIG and noticed a brassy color between the rust and bare metal on the edges of the weld area. Tried a wirecup brush on the horn and saw the same thing. Anyone know what this coloration is from? And no it's not gold... But just imagine... :mrgreen: Thanks Photo used with permission