bnewberry

The teeth on most chains are chrome plated. I wonder if the advice is to remove the chrome that might cause problems with the welding etc.

That's pretty sweet. Nice touches in the inlay and lariat loop.

Nice work!

I've used Old Hickory butcher knives on turkey and even home grown chickens, but I prefer a smaller blade. Four inches is a good compromise lenght.

For the deer, specifically to open the belly skin without cutting into the carcas I like the point either lower than the midline of the blade or you can achieve a similar purpose by having a ridge/hump above the point.

Use no guard or a very small guard as a large guard can get in the way of your grip.

Here is a general purpose knife I made for a guy that shows how the hump can work. I fileworked this one which I wouldn't do on a skinning knife.

Speaking of skinning knives. Some folks still like the upswept style for removing the skin. You have to be careful opening up the carcass, but it can be done. The extra belly is useful for sweeping cuts.

Very interesting lines. Outstanding craftsmanship. It makes me want to hold it.

Very nice axe! Just goes to show you that a blacksmith needs to be clever to get stuff done with what he has available.

Nice work!

Potassium permanganate is what is used to bring out the flame in curly maple. You might give that a try.

Simply amazing work!

Nice looking axe!

That is a nice looking razor!

Good rescue!

Out of curiosity, was the bit that broke originally part of the rat tail of the file?

I've found these to be damaged on several occasions before.

Very nice! Not only the finish, but the design. It flows well.

For flat bottomed holes I use a rivet drill:

http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/379.htm

Nice! I haven't seen an ulu with rounded corners like that. I like it!

I've got a Winchester file!

Nice! I especially like the last one.

That looks better. I also think that some nice neat metal spacers would set off the antler parts.

I have a few anvils I have accumulated over the years. A customer contracted me to forge some bolts to hang a bell. They were doubtful about forge welding and the engineer on the project suggested arc welding. The client liked the idea of the forge weld better after they saw my sample. I was told to suspend a load %150 of the ultimate load. it worked out to be about 1000 lbs of anvils. So I put some of my anvils to work. The big ones stayed in the shop. The welds held nothing broke bended or deflected.

That is a credible job given the tools you used and the material you started with. How did the heat treating go?


On edit: You could gain a bit of tang by grinding the ricasso area down a bit to square up the shoulders. You will need to do that anyway to seat the guard.

That is a knife! I really like the angle you achieve between the handle and the blade.

Looks functional. Files and sandpaper will get the job done if you stick with it!

Jantz http://www.knifemaking.com/Default.asp
New Jersey Steel Baron http://stores.njsteelbaron.com/StoreFront.bok

If you are going to do your own heat treat, try 1070, 1075 0r 1084 first. These are easier to heat treat than 1095 which can sometimes be alloyed such that you have a very short window to get the steel quenched.

Have fun!

I'm reminded of the old saying, "If a fine blade you would win, forge thick and grind thin."

Of course the better we get as smiths, the less we have to grind.

Your knives are looking good! Now the hard work begins. The last 10% takes the most time and care in my opinion.

That is a nice pattern and the overall design looks 18th century to me. Nice!

I would oil the handle and see what color comes from it.