bnewberry

With my long forge I left one end of the air pipe open and used a "ram rod" made from a steel pulley and a small diameter pipe to control the length of the fire by controlling where air came through the holes..

For knives you ONLY want to heat what you can work as heating more than you can work promotes grain growth scaling and decarburization. Only time you need it all hot is truing it up and heat treat!

Very nice! I like the bolster.

Maybe O.K. to get started, but thats a pretty long fire for most things unless you just put a few holes in the center part. No sense having a longer heat than you can work at one time, just wastes fuel.

Looks nice! How did you shape the eye for the handle?

I have used a scavenged blower from a car heater system. Currently I use a hand crank blower. I also have a 3-phase electric motor run blower, but I don't have 3-phase service so I'll have to change the motor someday.

I was a little scared to open this one... I was worried I would end up in a thread about the comparative effectiveness of the Katana vs. the Broadsword in a full scale zombie attack....

But I actually like your sword. It has nice lines and looks like it would get the job done!

As I understand it, wood that isn't as tough, durable or, well, stable as you would want a knife handle is sometimes stabilized through a process that infuses the wood fibers with what amounts to plastic or other substances that ensure that the wood will not come apart in use.

This is often used in a variety of burl woods that have interesting and convoluted grain paterns, but which also might more easily separate under hard use.

I think that some woods that might be too soft, but which can be colored or which have interesting grain patterns are also stabilized to make them suitable for knife handles or other uses.

I also prefer "real" wood, desert ironwood (non-burl), rosewood, osage orange etc. which tend to be tough enough to use without needing stabilization. That said, I can see why a maker would use stabilized wood. it allows a comfort level knowing that the wood is as tough as possible so that the customer is satisfied with the product.

On some blowers you have to drift the shaft off the blower fan to get to the gears. At least that is how mine was/is.

Very nice!

The other day i stopped at an antique dealer near where i live and he has a ton of old blacksmith tools! I was drooling over these swage blocks. The smaller on in the back is a Josh Greenwood i believe, and the larger on i didn't recognize. Josh greenwoods are circa 1975 so its not that old. He wants 125 for the Greenwood, and 150 for the larger one. They are both pretty pitted and rusted from sitting outside but they look as though they would clean up nice. tell me what you think they are worth. He has a bunch of hammers and tongs too but i didn't get prices.http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16440&stc=1&d=1250031892http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16441&stc=1&d=1250031892http://www.iforgeiron.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=16442&stc=1&d=1250031892

Looks like it would take a lot of pounding to get where you are from a RR spike. Good work. That knife has good lines.

For handles. I like micarta on hard using knifes and woods like rosewood, walnut, desert ironwood on fancier blades myself. If you can stabilize the wood then just about anything will work.

Where does one find plain old iron such as is used in wrought iron fences?

I'd like to someday have a go at forge welding iron to steel like they did back when steel was more rare than iron.

I have bought natural lump hardwood charcoal at Stater Brothers grocery stores. About 8.00 per bag.

I have also made my own charcoal from pine.

Avoid Mesquite lump charcoal! Too much sparking.

I'd say all you need now is some metal to put in your fire and an idea on what to make with it.

I'd start by modifying your tongs.

I like it! Now I have to ask, how did you do that?

Very nice! I like the pattern in the steel and the lines of the knife.

I would go with Micarta for that brute. Very tough and has a no-nonsense look. But wood is good too.

That is a serious hunk of steel. Looks like it will do anything you ask of it. Make sure you post pictures when you decide what to do with the back and get handles on it!

It is funny to think that we use the Internet to learn about blacksmithing. A combination of old and new.

wow i wish my first two knives had that level of detail, reminds me what patience can get, sweet knives, how were they heat treated/ tempered???

I really like the detail in the 2nd photo! Is there a name for that?

Here are my first two knives. I haven't gotten good enough with the hammer to forge a knife yet so these were made by stock removal.

The first was ground out of a Camillus OVB blank. The blade is about 5 inches. The handle is Desert Ironwood Burl.

The second knife is a skinner out of 1095. The handle is Desert Ironwood.

I'm working to improve my forging skills. I hope to post a picture of a forged knife when I have learned enough to try.

Nice design. Thanks for posting.

Welcome
California has a very active blacksmith group that has several beginers hands on training

the only ways I've found to reduce the sparks are to avoid charcoal made from oak and similar woods (ones with a high silica content often show medular rays in the wood) and make sure you have a bed of charcoal over the embers when forcing air in as it is too easy to blow the fines out!