Tooling for custom baluster

[HWooldridge]

I have an order to build a couple hundred of balusters for a fence job. All I have to supply are the verticals - the rest is done by another contractor. The customer wants each end to resemble the attached drawing.

With regard to tooling, I was thinking about cutting a piece of 3/4" 4140 lengthwise thru the center axis and 180 degrees apart, the result being two long tapered pieces which would then be welded to a spring die and used under the power hammer. The hot material would be fed in from the end and slowly spread as the bar moves into the die (I hope that description makes sense). In other words, the tool would essentially be a tapered fuller and impart a gradual pinching movement so the taper is uniform over 6"-7" from each end.

Does anyone have comments/suggestions on whether this sounds like the right method of tooling it?

[Bryce Masuk]

I want to know too lol


I made a thread about dies on the powerhammer forum hopefully some of the knowledgeable people on here will give some ideas to experiment with

[brianbrazealblacksmith]

I'd make two cone fullers of the appropriate size and length, put that on a spring, and hit it once with the hammer.

[bigfootnampa]

look at this tool

Now fit it with dies that are half round on the edges and of appropriate thickness and it is simple as pie to create those verticals. No need for cone dies as the section at angle through the half rounds will be conical. Just a few whacks with a hand hammer should do it but you could make a version for use under hammer or press if you have VERY many to do. Of course you would make your dies straight (NOT with the little saddles on the ends). You could start by flattening the ends a bit with the power hammer so that the fuller has less work to do, and a little flat will make it easier to position the workpiece in the fuller.

[Dillon Sculpture]

I agree with Brian and would try to leave the material in one place without "feeding it in" my experience has been you get a cleaner forging. As far as the tooling I would use a taller material like 3/4" by 1-1/4 and cut and grind the shape you want, trying to weld the small end of the taper would be very difficult and probable not hold up. The real problem I see is how to get the material centered side to side and length ways, Maybe some kind of fork that is in front of the die with a 3/4" by 2" slot and if you cut them all the same length a stop block on the opposite end. I love them kind of jobs, real money makers, good luck.

[Mainely,Bob]

Sam Salvati posted a video a while back that showed a French smith using a drop hammer to forge some rather ornate scroll ends.It may be worth a search to see what those dies looked like as they worked very well and the design was far more involved than your drawing.

[arftist]

look at this tool

Now fit it with dies that are half round on the edges and of appropriate thickness and it is simple as pie to create those verticals. No need for cone dies as the section at angle through the half rounds will be conical. Just a few whacks with a hand hammer should do it but you could make a version for use under hammer or press if you have VERY many to do. Of course you would make your dies straight (NOT with the little saddles on the ends). You could start by flattening the ends a bit with the power hammer so that the fuller has less work to do, and a little flat will make it easier to position the workpiece in the fuller.

That looks exactly like one of my tools, but I don't think I ever posted it.


I agree with bigfoot, this type of operation works better with a hinged tool than a spring tool. The sping tools are more likely to suffer from misalignment IMHO. The way to aproach this is to start making tools and keep modifying them till you get it to work.

I would start with some heavey bar stock for the two arms, at least 1"x2".
Then make the dies you described and weld them to the arms, crosswise. Make everything super rugged if you expect it to last for sevral hundred peices. For example, the pivot bolt should be at least 1/2" grade "8". The side flanges should be minimum 1/2".

As noted above, design, make or modify your tool, so the work is done in one position, not fed. You may need more than one heat to finnish though.

You may want to incorperate a length stop, to index the work to the correct starting point.

You may also want to incorperate a depth stop, or kiss blocks, to ensure uniform depth of penetration.

You will have to experiment with preforming the metal before putting it in the die, probably need to flatten the end a little for a couple inches at least. This is where you should see that you need more metal at the end.

My only concern with the drawing is that you may need to upset more mass to acomplish that design.

I am going to go look for that tool. I finaly got a new computer, so maybe I can get good at posting pictures.

[HWooldridge]

Thanks to everyone for the replies. My 100 lb Beaudry has 4x7 rectangular dies so I think a die-set style tool with return springs might be a good approach. DDillon, I understand what you are saying, the extra height will allow the holder plates to clear the material; otherwise, there would be interference. In any case, I'm not planning to do any upsetting - it would be easier in my shop to start with larger material and swage down the center than try to upset the end for more mass. Most likely, I will simple mash it out from the parent stock size then ship the sample to the customer as-forged since they are not looking for a particular dimensional result.