diluded Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 Hi all, This looks like a hopping form. I've banged around on some metal about ten years ago (coal, hibachi and a hair dryer), and started welding: welding up a trailer, sawmill, jeep bumper, winch plate, and a few other things since then. I got a book on blacksmithing from santa, and am wanting to do more hammering hot metal, mostly to make wood working and logging implements. I picked up a forge blower and was going to weld up a forge tomorrow morning with some stock left over from my tandem axle trailer project. Have a couple of questions: Is a 'T' pipe connection pretty standard under the tuyere? It looks like a handy way to get ashes out. As an alternative, I was thinking of a -v- shaped forge with an inch wide trough on the bottom. I could drill 1" holes thru two plates for the bottom, and make it so that one of the pieces slides to let ashes drop out of the holes. Or would I be better off just leaving it undrilled, and put a 'T' connection on there? And going across the bottom of the trough, should I put some pieces of rebar like a grill grate, to keep the fire off the very bottom - or will this burn up and be a waste of time? Gimme a shout, and let me know what you think. I tend to learn from messing things up, then doing it again - but I'm not opposed to listening to somebody that has already tried the same thing. James B Quote
blafen Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 Use a connector with a thin sheet steel flap valve over the bottem ened, this valve has a handle and is counterweighted to seal off the end of the t connector, to dump the ash all you have to do is pull the handle and it opens the flapper and dumps the ash, i saw one on some blacksmithing show and immediately added one to my own forge. OH and be sure to use NON galvanized pipe fittigs especially around hot areas. Quote
Frosty Posted January 11, 2009 Posted January 11, 2009 Welcome aboard James, glad to have you. Check out the Blueprint section, there are lots of forge designs. for my large coal forge I welded the tuyere up out of exhaust pipe, 3" for the vertical to the air grate and 2" "Ts" into it for the horizontal air supply. I use a flapper rain cap for the ash dump. I extended the counter weight arm and added weight to keep it closed and bring it close enough to the front of the forge to be easy to lift with a fire tool and dump the ash. What shape you make the fire pot or duck's nest and how you supply the blast has a lot to do with what you intend to make. Even for making long blades a trench fire has limited use, mostly for heat treat, truing, etc. For all practical intents and purposes you can't work much more than a few times the width of your hammer face in a heat so it's not economical to heat much more. Send pics of your set up, we love pics and will reward you by making more suggestions! Frosty Quote
diluded Posted February 3, 2009 Author Posted February 3, 2009 I finally got this finished, vented and fired up. I did a T-shaped ash dump as suggested. The plastic vent hood van melted into the fire, but it still drafts pretty good. Check out some pix: Link to a couple more: Flickr: diluded000's Photostream thanks for looking James B Quote
Frosty Posted February 3, 2009 Posted February 3, 2009 Good to hear from you again James. I'll be interested in hearing how well you can control the fire in your forge, I think it's going to be a bit of a PITA but I'm not a solid fuel forge guy by preference. The usual model for a fire pot is a square, rectangular or round "pot" about 3-4" deep and 12-14" across. This is typically set into a table far enough from the back to give room for a side draft hood. Overhead hoods being ineffective, fewer and fewer people are making them. On the other hand, just because I've never seen a coal forge like yours doesn't mean it isn't going to be the next super forge design so keep us posted on how it works. Frosty Quote
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