new forge almost done

[Fdisk]

Well all i need is to is get 1 more pipe and connect my fan and ill have my first forge homemade brakedrum forge
now ive been reading all i can and i just wanna be sure im correct ive got a few truck leaf springs bent of course so ill anneal first then the next day reheat and straighten the springs then normalize by heating red hot then letting air cool ??
then i may start stock removal correct ?

[char]

When I do it I heat em up then straighten them get em red again then anneal them over nite. Then I normalize at least once after I've been hammering on them. I also generally re anneal them before I start grinding/filing on them, but I dont think its needed just nice.

[Chuck Richards]

Why not forge to shape?? At least profile them in the forge. That is the big advantage to having a forge. If you are just wanting to do stock removal then heat straighten, normalize (heat to non mag then cool in air) x2 or 3 then grind away.

[Fdisk]

Well i am gonna do some shaping but ive never done it so ima take it slow i would like to try and make a hachet or axe and a bowie style knife but i have done stock removal on just plane old wall angers before ive never used good metal before always just some old soft stuff for looks i never realy thought i could make a good working knife but with yalls help i think i can alog with alot of trial and error also 1 more thing after i anneal the complete pice of steele i leave the tang in a soft state right no harding at all ??

[Chuck Richards]

Some do some don't. It is a matter of preference and how you do your HT. If you do harden it then at least to a blue color draw on it to soften it back to a spring temper.