skypiratedc10 Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Hello Folks, I'm a new lad here on the forum wonderful to have found. Just starting out blacksmithing with my 15 year old son and we purchased a great old revamped farmers forge - when its running it really kicks up the heat with very little effort - it has a handle that is attached to a dual wheel sprocket system that turns a shaft in one direction but not the other - the third "sprocket" has a belt on it that then runs to the "blower" wheel which is much smaller which is attached to the shaft of the blower. It works well when working - the issue is that the "belt" is slipping now and there is no way to tighten the strap - I was thinking of pulling everything apart and reattaching everything with some "slots" cut into a few of the parts which will allow for some slack adjustment but before doing so wanted to see if anyone out here had the same issues and if so a possible remedy. Short gap I was going to go try and rig up a leather strap that was a bit undersized initially that when stretched out would work - or see if I might be able to work an adjustable strap of some sort that I could tighten at will. Ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 (edited) You can shorten the belt and it will work fine for a while but will eventually stretch again. The best thing I've seen is an idler wheel on a loosely fitted shaft/bracket that rests on the belt by it's own weight - too much tension and the belt will slip off the drive wheel so you don't need much more than gravity to assist. You can find old flat belt pulleys with "ears" that will keep the belt centered or just use a fairly wide one so the belt doesn't walk out from under the idler while running. It's pretty easy to shorten leather belting. You cut it on a bias then glue the skived ends with contact cement - works like a champ. Edited September 4, 2008 by HWooldridge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skypiratedc10 Posted September 4, 2008 Author Share Posted September 4, 2008 I'm going to go the easy route for now and just cut and paste - I have worked crushing equipment before that had tensioners on some of the belting and I'm sure that might work great also - maybe a winter time project -for now I'm leather shopping in the morning and already have the glue. Thanks a bunch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip in china Posted September 4, 2008 Share Posted September 4, 2008 Welcome to IFI skypirate. Even more than that welcome to blacksmithing! Why not fill in your location? There might be somebody closer to you than you think. An idler wheel is the way to go and can be made out of almost anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peacock Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 Is this belt flat or round, also what size. If it is flat you can cut some out and lace it back together with leather lace. If it is round it can be cut and put bact together with with wire staple. If the belt is in good condition, not too loose you may just need some belt dressing. The easiest is spray on can get it at most auto parts stores. If you need to replace the belt I have sides of the proper kind of leather and the lace leather. If you are interested I may be able to help you. You will need alum tan leather as all other kinds have too much stretch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ironrosefarms Posted September 5, 2008 Share Posted September 5, 2008 On my old ratchet forge with the leather belt... I have cut out sections and put in new and shortened mine up and all kinds of stuff. When I got mine the belt was "spliced" together using a copper rivet with a small thin copper washer on top and bottom. So when I cut out the rotted section I simply punched a hole on each end and riveted it together with new copper rivets. It has held thus far for 4 years of active forging and 2 years of sitting and now being put back into service with no adjustment or further repair. It does look a bit odd with 1/3 being fairly new leather and the rest being really old... but I didn't have enough leather at the time to refit the whole thing and now why fix it if it ain't broke? One extra hint don't grease or oil the ratchet assembly, some dry lube such as graphite if needed but no oil or grease... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JerryCarroll Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 I have a 1914 Sears with the pump handle--ratchet type drive. It was being used for a flower planter when I found it. I had to make new teeth for the ratchet and a couple other pieces. I used leather that we bought from Tandy for our leather buckskinner articles for the belt. When I put the belt together I dampened it except for the couple of inches glue area, stretched it a bit--put it over the pulleys and clamped the glued area till it was dry. The belt has been in use for about 10 years now. I use a bit of spray-on belt dressing if it starts to slip a bit. There is a picture of it in the gallery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rthibeau Posted September 7, 2008 Share Posted September 7, 2008 DO NOT CUT OR ALTER THE ORIGINAL PARTS..........you will destroy the value of the equipment....buy or make the correct size leather belt, very simple to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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