Cavpilot2k Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Hot cut hardy from a pavement breaker bit (I like the collar). I hammered (all by hand - my forge is pretty primitive as far as power tools) the shank square from the original hex shape, then cross-peened the heck out of the thing to rough shape. Finished with grinder. It was originally about 3/4" taller (unnecessary, really), until I burned the edge in the forge in the last heat before treating - GRRRR! So I cut off the burned part and realized I still had plenty material to finish. Oil quenched, tempered to deep straw/gold. Rubbed generously with gun oil to inhibit rust. It cut a horseshoe and some 1/2" mild square stock easily without damage to the edge, so I'm happy with it. Input and suggestions for improvement on the next one welcome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dickb Posted July 30, 2018 Share Posted July 30, 2018 Nicely done. I use jackhammer bits for hardy tools. You can probably get away without the oil hardening if you are only going to cut hot iron/steel. In the event of a misplaced hammer blow the hardy may dent but it's easy to fix it up again with a file or grinder. Given the choice, I would rather put a dent in the hardy tool in stead of damaging a good hammer . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cavpilot2k Posted July 30, 2018 Author Share Posted July 30, 2018 (edited) Good point! I have a 3 lb sledge that is solely dedicated to striking other tools (punches, drifts) and hot cutting. It never contacts working steel, so if its face gets a little marred, I can live with it. Mod note: there is no need to quote the immediately preceding comment in its entirety when replying. We can all see what you’re responding to. Edited July 31, 2018 by Mod34 Excess quoting removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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