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4 way valve question.....


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Got a question for the pneumatic wizards in the group. MY 4 way valve went out on my Simple Air hammer .....after 12 years :D. Got a NEW one.......installed it......and for some reason it won't let me control the hammer action by the Exhaust. I can make the head cycle by adjusting the amount of air pressure IN.........but I want to control it by the footpedal/exhaust. I had this happen a LONG time ago on another hammer I built and I remember taking the valve back to the supplier and he "adjusted" it so that it did enable me to control that hammer with the exhaust. So.....

MY question.....I removed the bottom access plate which only exposed a "compression spring on a post"....nothing to adjust. The top side of the valve is where the air line to the 3 way valve that changes the direction of the head IS. IS there something on that side that I should be able to adjust?

Or is the fix somewhere else. I'd appreciate any insight. I've got a "get together " planned for the "international blacksmiths day" and I'd really like to have this TOYL working normally. As usual.......Murphy came.....and he wasn't invited. :D

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Bill, I am sure it can be figured out, with some more information. Valve manufacturor, model #, schematic of air plumbing, assume it is a shop made hammer, is it possible you transposed any two hoses in reconecting the valve? Are you sure it is the exact same valve, or a closely related,simular looking valve? could the problem be in your footpetal?

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thanks for the reply, Arftist.
Let's see:
the 4 way valve is a ROTORAM valve. By AIR-MITE Devices,Inc. Not sure of the model # but if I find it I'll post it later.
The air is plumbed exactly as described in the Simple Air Hammer plans from Ron Kinyon. It IS a shop made hammer. No transposed hoses....took old 4 way valve out......installed new one. I've used this type of AIR-MITE valve on another hammer that I built years ago....but as I said........ran into the same problem .....took the valve back to the supplier and he "made an adjustment" so that it could control the action via the exhaust(footpedal).

I can actually use the hammer.....and control the hammer blow by controlling the "air pressure IN". Without the footpedal even attached. Naturally it doesn't have the control I was accustomed to. I've given thought to installing a "ball valve" footpedal inline to control the air in. But I'd really just like to go back to the standard plumbing.

I know this info may not help at all...........if so....I understand. I was hoping that with all the folks here......that have built these simple air hammers.....someone may have run into the same problem.

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hummmm i think those type 4 way valves have a spring to move the valve one direction and theyre is a airvalve that when activated moves it the other direction... it might bwe that you have to change which side the spring is on...i ended up with a 4 way valve on my hammer with 2 swich ports (so a swich to move it up and one to move it down) i dont know if it makes any sence to you but it was a stab without haveing the valve in hand its hard to figure..good luck!

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Bill, I still have not located the schematic for your hammer (not had time yet) but what jumps out at me from the catalog is that these valves are available with a pilot pressure differential. The model # doesn't tell whether your's has this or not, it seems to be "need to know", in other words, to have ordered the correct valve, you need to know this. Since pressure differentials are often ajustable, and your last valve required ajustment, my best guess so far is that the technician adjusted the pressure diferential. I will look into this more later. Since it seems that technician is no longer available, you may need to contact the manufacturer or rep for info.

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I think I have an idea but I will add the disclaimer that I am not a "pneumatic wizard" You said that it wont let you control the hammer from the exhaust. When you open the exhaust does the cylinder extend or retract and stop? The valve is air actuated and spring return if the air actuator is on the wrong end of the valve it will "stick" in open or closed postion. You could try putting the actuator on the other end of the valve body like dablacksmith said. If that does not work another option is to "reverse" your plumbing and exhaust the valve thru the input port. Some valves will let you do this and some don't. Describe the plumbing arrangement of your valve. Three ports on the left and two on the right in the picture. Where does each port go? On my hammer I have two ports coupled together to a ball valve where it is exhausted. I am not sure if they were ment to be input or exhaust ports as I got the valve out of junkyard. I hope some of this helps and you get your hammer back up and runnning.

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  • 2 weeks later...

just a quick note..........I appreciate ALL the feedback that was offered. Took the valve over to a pneumatics guy.............and after a lil tweakin.....got the hammer back to working order, last night. I'd thought about takin this opportunity to try the Mark Linn VERSION of the plumbing....but after being without the hammer for a bit.......and having work that needs to get done..........well I'm going to have to wait til later to try that. Or maybe just do that on the other hammer that I've got almost completed. The frames done, all it needs is the pneumatic parts. That way I've always got a working hammer and won't have any down time.

thanks again.........what a great resource this site is. FWIW, WRH51......mines plumbed the same as the Simple Air Hammer plans. This hammers been running fine with that configuration, for the last 12 years. In hind sight I'm pleased that the 4 way valve lasted that long. I want to try the reversed method.....but will have to wait til I plumb the new frame. Got a nice SMC valve that I believe will let me reverse it. :D

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