Unistat76 Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Well, I got some refractory bricks and made a tiny forge. I got a "Y" 20# to 1# adapter for the burners, this pic with the 1 pounders was just my test burn. I used some rebar to make a round drift to make a set of flat tongs. Using the left over rebar I made a blacksmith knife... which I broke when adjusting the handle. So then I went to make my tongs and was doing good and began drifting the hole... when I broke one half at the hinge. So all in all it was a good day of learning. I learned that you can sometimes get away with hitting metal with no color to it until you can't. That usually happens at a critical point. I also learned that the slack tub can cool off metal AND burns on your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 True mild steel you can hammer all the way down to ambient; though at some point it will begin to work harden. Higher carbon/alloy steels have a limited range of forging temps and specs on them will generally mention a forging start and forging stop temps. Rebar and A-36 you don't know the C content from piece to piece which is why they are not suggested for people starting out... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unistat76 Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 Yeah, but it's what I had laying around. On the grinding wheel it threw a good amount of sparks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 Were they the right *type* of sparks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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