Exo313 Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Little rough around the edges but the price was right. Thoughts on ID? Only markings I can make out are 1 1 14 (no dots between) and a very faint "TT" on the side near the edge of the face. Looks like the end of a word... Also about cleaning up those welds on the face... Grind to near flush then sanding disk to blend in? (Yes they look inverted in the bottom picture. Stand on your head and they'll pop out of the surrounding surface instead of looking sunk into it) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Grind to near flush and hammer blend? Is there any hardening in the HAZ? As for brand; one of the 250+ english makers; more towards the MH than PW... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 Hard to say at this point. Need to do some better testing. Initial tests are moderate rebound but nothing amazing, without a huge difference between the welded and non welded areas. Maybe 60 percent rebound? But my trusted hammer is in my tool box at work presently. Ball bearing would be better but I haven't gotten around to grabbing one yet. Edit: not very familiar with hammer blending. Is it like it sounds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 So update: (pictures forthcoming soon as I can) Horn is, as I suspected, brazed rather than welded back on. The only further letters I can make out on the maker's stamping are what looks like "ENNITT" The welds themselves are dead soft but the area around them doesn't seem to have suffered much. Ground to just about flush. Recommendation on cleaning up the section where the heel broke off? I'm concerned that with time bits of the face may break off near the fracture line and become shrapnel. I figure at a minimum eliminate any potential points of failure and radius out ledges and so forth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Don't hit back there---problem solved. I've never had that issue with my heel less anvil but I've only had it about 20 years now and it gets used for sledging on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted July 4, 2017 Author Share Posted July 4, 2017 Excellent hardy hole workaround there too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 The long term plan is to get a section of very heavy duty tubing and thoroughly weld it in place. As has been mentioned if you offset your hardy tools to sit on the face they will work fine in that situation. I picked this anvil up around 20 years ago at the South High Fleamarket at the old South High Drive In in Columbus Ohio; bought it from a Farrier for US#40 mainly because the name I could see read "powe" and my name is Powers. Unfortunately Postman said it;s a Powell. It's not my most damaged anvil by a long shot; my wall of shame has a PW(?) missing everything above the waist---and then used like that for a long time and also a William Foster (dated 1828) missing the heel and 90% of the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Exo313 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 One somewhat blurry post-cleaning shot. I think she's got character. And a bit of bling in the shined up braze job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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