Great work Zadvorney, 

 The finished hammer looks great and you have done a really great job .It must of been an effort to weld up all the steel plates for your anvil .I have purchased the plans from clay some years back now  and have been doing bits for it every now and then  I have to get back into now seeing yours.

 I have one question if I may I am having a lot of trouble getting a 5 stud space saver Tyre as the plans state .They seem to be like rocking horse poop here in Aus ,I have been trying to get one for a very long time .

   I have managed to get  a four stud Tyre and rim in great condition  which is the correct Tyre size and width on the plans I am wondering do you think it would be able to be used only being a four studded rim and not five 

thank you for your time and thank you for your effort in explaining the fabrication of the parts great videos  '

well done

Bush Bugger

 North QLd Australia  

Bush, stick with it. It's well worth the effort you are putting into the build.  As far as I can tell, the ratio between the tire diameter and the drive pulley wheel is what is important. Too big or small and the hammer won't have the correct travel. Too big or too small and the motor will not drive the wheel that drives the hammer at the correct speed. If it were me, I'd just make sure the rim size is close. The 4 bolt vs 5 bolt pattern is most likely for strength. If you look in the plans it calls for a square shaft axle to mount the hub bearing on. The thing that the tire spins on. If you can get one for a 4 bolt setup then all things being equal, go for it. I wasn't the brainiac who drew up the plans though so be smart about it. It's a home built hammer that has a lot of latitude with its actual components. The physics we can't mess with. Best of luck. I hope this helped. Ask any time.

You're right zadvorney, but i'll first want to get a MIG to work with; I have a stick welder, but I thought that will  make a better looking job with a Mig welder (looking for a 220 volts like lincoln 180)...So, I believe it will be for fall project... I'm not a pro welder.

I forgot to tell you did a very nice hammer, you have to be proud of it, enjoy it.

Thanks Blou.  I use the PowerMig 210 and didn't have an issue.  I had to cut a few things off and remake parts.  Because of my mistakes I could see that I got good penetration with the mig when I looked at the cross section of the offending part.  The wire size I used was .035 and C-25 as a shielding gas.  If you use a larger wire size or cored wire you can do heavier pieces but I did't see the need.  The main advantage with stick would be that your parts don't have to be as scale free as with mig.  It took 20#s of .035 to complete the job and I went through 300 cubic feet of gas or two bottles. For cleaning the metal before welding my friend gave me three Norton grinder disks.  The ones that are made on a sheet of heavy fiberglass backer. They were great for creating a bevel on the parts for the weld fillet. Use a ribbed backer disk and you might only use one the whole job! WOW do they remove scale and welds and skin fast. https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/05720362.  

Zadvorney,

                  Thank you for your reply I will see how I go may be one might turn up in the future  and as you have said  a 5 studded  wheel rim would be a lot stronger than 4 studded wheel rim. ..

        The other thought I have had is if I cant get a 5 studded wheel  rim  is to may be  fabricate a plate with a five studded hole pattern drilled in it  at the correct PCD for the square  axle hub (still yet to be purchased) and then weld this on  to cover over the 4 stud pattern wheel rim I  have at present and go on from there . 

     Thank you also for the offer to ask questions about your build I will take you  up on that when I get some time to keep going with the fabricating the parts in the future .

many  thanks

Bush Bugger  

Thanks  Zadvorney for your reply.