I have been mucking around metal working for for a long time but not specifically blacksmithing. I am in Alaska US and rarely see an anvil for sale and they are astronomical in price. So I found this one at a garage sale. The horn had been broke,poorly repaired and brook again. The only mark is the number 12 on the base. Top has a fairly decent rebound with a ball bearing but I doubt it is top quality. A file will not just skate over the top but it is a very shallow bite. I am guessing 70-80 lbs. Thank you for any ideas any body can offer.!!!!

PS I have done a lot of reading on anvil repair/preheating/welding etc but never saw anything like the horn break trying to be repaired. Anybody got any thoughts on that?

It looks like a cast iron ASO. Especially with the exaggerated face plate; I have never seen/heard of an anvil that actually had a face plat that thick. Its interesting that it actually has some rebound?

                                                                                             Littleblacksmith

The Badger anvil had that extra bit of iron under the hardy hole; it was similar to a vulcan with a steel face and cast iron body.

ThomasPowers you might have called it. I found this picture set http://imgur.com/a/YFRb9

that looks very similar to mine even the way the number is below the horn.

Another question if I may. Would it be possible to weld that tip back on and have it hold ?

Possible, but not that practical.  Most likely you would have to preheat the entire anvil to get a clean weld which would ruin the existing heat treatment (surface hardness and rebound).  If the horn is cast iron that is another complication.  Also, as I'm sure your research has shown, re-heat treating an anvil is not a beginner exercise by any means.

A better choice might be to forge a bick that would fit your hardy hole, if you need a pointy cone shape to forge on.  You could also, carefully, grind the existing horn to more of a point, but go slow and avoid heating the anvils face.

looks like the steel topper for the cast iron horn didn't weld right when it was manufactured.  NOT worth the effort to try to replace it.  Frankly I would cut the end off even with the steel plate that's left and build a bickern for the hardy.  Pointy horns have an amazing skill in doing damage to smiths moving fast with hot metal and their height is often right at OUCH.  I believe this is the real reason so many anvil have had the horn hammered blunt as hammer control was not a problem back when you spent a 12 hour day hammering!

Thank you both for the extra info. I appreciate the knowledge base here. I will carefully try to clean what is there and move forward.