Thats Hot... Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 It's been slow getting started. My back has had me down for just about a week, but I did get a few hours in the shop today. The last two pict. are my wife's new cook top. It was a perfect fit.I hope to get it fabbed up this week, if I can keep moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 (Of good grief ) The air grate goes in the BOTTOM of a fire pot, not across the top. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thats Hot... Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 Yep... I just need to get the rest of the parts, and cut out the bottom for the flange and tuyere area. In the pict. that grate came off a side burner on a grill the fit was """perfect"" to make a cook top for my wife.. I am going to take one bolt out at a time and cut the head off and weld it in place. After I get all four done I should have a flat area in the pot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted December 14, 2015 Share Posted December 14, 2015 Oh good grief indeed! You SAID it was a cook top in the OP! I'll go sit in a corner for a while. So, is it going to be a fire pot? Do you have plans for a tuyere, fire grate, etc? There isn't need for as much work as you've put into it already. A plate that fits inside the hub needs no bolts to hold it down, gravity works just fine. If your tuyere is heavy and off center one bolt will secure it easily enough. A hole in the center over the tuyere can be covered with round bar stock with a small gap between the bars to make an air grate. Some guys weld them with a space but you can simply put a hair pin bend in them. The idea is the space between the bars provides plenty of air flow but is really easy to clean you can just rake them lengthwise with a poker. I used exhaust pipe for the tuyere on my coal forge. 4" semi stack for the vertical and 2" for the horizontal section. If you use a hole saw you can drill the connection point for a perfect fit and mig it up. If you don't have a mig you can make tabs, bend them drill them and pop rivet the sections. Easy peasy. I used a semi exhaust stack flap cap clamped to the bottom for the ash dump and added a little section of rod to the counter weight to it stayed closed and was easy to lift with tongs, a piece or stock or a stick to dump. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thats Hot... Posted December 14, 2015 Author Share Posted December 14, 2015 Well I went out to get the flange and tee and some nipples today. But no flange..... it should be in Tuesday. I did strip down a grill to use for the table for the forge it has a 1'2" lip I cam lay a steel top on (19 1/2 " x 25 3/8 " ) and I don't have any steel that I can cut down to fit. But I do have a a piece of alum. I can down to fit. Here is my ? should I use the alum. or will it get to hot with the forge on it.I would like to use the old grill stand. That way I can move the forge around. I am using things that I have laying around.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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