Jump to content
I Forge Iron

More owner built power hammer questions.


Recommended Posts

This seems to be a popular topic lately.  I have been preoccupied lately getting our home here in the Bay Area ready to sell as part of our move to Phoenix and I have been passing the time thinking about a power hammer.  I love old machinery and a Little Giant would be fun but the prices out here are through the roof.  I have looked at the Big Blu 66 and the Anyang 33, both a bit pricey for a hobbyist such as myself but doable.  I have a monster compressor so that would not be an issue with the Big Blu.  However if I built my own those funds could be spent elsewhere like a good press.  I have also heard a few things about the Anyang that give me pause.  So building looks like a good option.  That is unless something really good comes along which brings me to my first question.

Are many power hammers available at the Quad State?  If so how are the prices?  I am trying to coordinate my yearly trip back east with the Quad State so that would be an option.

If I build I have pretty much settled on a Clay Spencer type tire hammer.  I would do one of his workshops in a heart beat but he doesn't have any scheduled.  Paul Matthew's elegant hammer has really sealed the deal for me on this design as opposed to an Appalachian style.  So here are some questions in that direction.

Has anyone used a trailer spindle set up rather than a rear wheel bearing from a front wheel drive car?  They are much more available and you can get any bolt pattern you want.  By coincidence my son just gave me the spare off his Jeep Cherokee and I could use that if I went the spindle route.

The unsupported roller design makes me wonder what that does to motor life.  It seems like if you are going to have a roller machined why not step it down and continue it so the shaft could be supported by a pillow block bearing at the far end.  Has anyone done this?

Do people who complain about using tooling with a tire hammer have one with a built in brake so that when the roller disengages the brake is applied?

Linkage flex seems to be a problem, has anyone used a securely fastened housed cable system like that used for steering on some larger outboard motors?  Or even simpler for a straight shot, use a rod in a fairly close fitting well lubed rigid pipe?  I imagine that there are probably some pretty good hydraulic steering systems for marine applications but I do not have personal familiarity with them.

Does anyone have a brand name and source for the "plastic" guide material?  What sort of cost should I expect?

Finding large diameter shaft for the anvil used looks like a bit of a challenge, what sort of luck have people had buying it new?  Sources and costs?

I have about 6 more weeks on the house project and then I am ready to dedicate full time to putting this together.

Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

Edited by LawnJockey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iron Kiss is a possibility but that ups the cost a bit.  The largest stock I have been working with is 1 1/4 but mostly smaller stuff.  Control is an issue, I want to be able to use hand held tooling without a high likelihood of damaging the work.

From your name I assume you are a single shot guy, me too.  I have a nice CPA schuetzen that I am willing to trade toward a hammer, all regs followed.

Edited by LawnJockey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plans call for a trailer spindle, but I went with the FWD car hub as the wheel that I had was of that bolt pattern.

Ive had no problem using tooling so far, but I have not punched any eyes on hammer stock or anything. As far as the break and motor engagement, if it is adjusted properly.. I think that the hammer has control that rivals that of the self contained air hammers that Ive used.

Any steel yard can get you the avil stock, and all of the yards around here have it in stock.

If you don't have the plans yet, I'd suggest getting them. Lots and lots of information in there. A small investment for what you get out of it.

The linkage flex was easily resolved by reaming the treadle pivot and installing some bronze phosphate bushings with built in thrust washers. And, by bracing the treadle linkage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...