Michael Spaulding Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 As this is my first blower, I thought I would reach out before I call this beauty complete.I purchased it for $200. I talked the guy (a picker) down from $250 as you could hear some slight grinding, and when we opened the fan casing, there was a good 1/8 inch carbon buildup inside. The gear housing, however, was gorgeous. Bone dry, but otherwise just shiny as new. The gears look like they were machined yesterday.So, the handle, when given what I would call about as much pressure as I feel comfortable turning it at, would rotate half way around again when released. I got all the grease and carbon out of the fan housing, and the grind is gone and it freely rotates just shy of 3/4 around at max pressure, and about half way around at a light (50%) pressure.The grind is gone, but there's still a bit of whine. I don't want to do a full overhaul of this thing, because I want to get smithing and it's my only blower, but with the "whine" and amount of free rotation, would you suggest replacing the bearings? How involved is that process on the champion 400? How much easier/how much more free rotation would I see from a replacement? Is there any reason I shouldn't use this as it is? Thanks for the info!I just finished building the forge, cleaned the blower, gotta work on the anvil stump and buy some coal from the local guild and I'm ready!Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Spaulding Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Oh, and is there any viscosity you suggest when adding oil to the gear house? Considering its bone dry, how much should I add? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HWooldridge Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I've owned several 400 Champions and IIRC, all had a drip oiler or spout that fed the large gear which drives the fan shaft worm gear. None of them actually ran in oil because it would generally leak out at the fan housing. The shaft bearings were generally lubed with white lithium grease and I used ATF for the drip oiling.Even when well lubed, this style of blower has a lot of gear noise in the primary drive train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted April 17, 2015 Share Posted April 17, 2015 I'm not sure what you mean by it turning 3/4 or 1/2 way around. If it's stopping it has a problem.The whine is normal you're just hearing the gears meshing.These things don't operate in an oil bath so don't try filling it to what looks like a level plug UNLESS you like oil puddles on the shop floor. A few drops in the oil port on top at the beginning of a session is all she needs. You'll hear the change in tone in the whine so you'll know what to listen for in long sessions if she wants another couple drops. Just plain old 30wt works fine, no need for special lubes though I've been known to use my power hammer oil on almost everything with a drip oiler ad that's chainsaw bar oil with a healthy dollop per gallon of Duralube, engine oil additive.Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Spaulding Posted April 17, 2015 Author Share Posted April 17, 2015 Frosty, I mean that if I'm cranking it, and let go and let it spin freely, it continues for 3/4 of a full turn before settling at a stop.Thanks for the advice on oil. I'll keep some handy in the shop to make sure to keep her running smoothly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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